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It‘s the first I’ve heard of the rear tie rod failure, but I’m the only guy I know that actually wheels an LR3. :) I can see it happening in either an impact or strain situation that it isn’t really designed for. Either the tire coming into a ledge that’s angled horizontally, and it tries to...

Crap, totally forgot about them having upper control arms as well lol. Wife’s RR has a Macpherson strut setup with two lower control arms per side only. Shows how reliable the LR3 has been so far, put 30k miles on it and I don’t even know what the suspension looks like...

It is my understanding that the “problem” with DRW off-road (more than dirt or gravel two tracks) is the possibility for rocks/stumps/etc to get wedged between the rear tires, possibly even destroying both sidewalls. The lesser issue is airing down too far can lead to them pushing tires off the...

About to tackle this on mine, ordered a pair of the Meyle control arms thanks to this thread. Still need to pick up some hardware. What else is a good idea to replace while it’s apart and before an alignment is done? Considering tie rod ends at the very least, whether mine show any wear or not.

Yep. That was my thought clicking on this, is what tires people are running.

My $0.02 as someone who has owned, driven for extended periods, wheeled, and substantially wrenched on a D1, D2, and D3 (currently). I also have a RRC LWB, wife drives a RRSC, dad just traded a D4 for new Defender. Get the 3 all day, every day. I wasn’t a fan of my D2 very much at all. My D1...

Flatbeds typically sit higher due to them not having wheel wells. You ought to be able to have something built with a lower center section and using off the shelf tool boxes on the sides for not a totally absurd amount of money.

My $0.02 as someone who has been a mechanic, woodworker, fabricator, and welder in a professional capacity at some point or another. #1. Don’t overcomplicate things. It’s easy to go down a rabbit hole of “ this would be so cool” like cabinet doors with the edges scribed the the interior, all...

I can confirm 265/65R18’s will not rub at all, even with an EAS failure. Here’s mine sitting on the bump stops, I lowered it with the GAP IID tool to check it. Was able to drive and turn lock to lock, the only mod was moving the ride height sensor in the front driver side wheel well. I have rear...

I’m doing something similar on my LR3 with the V8. Found a Warn VR8 on closeout for under $300, I couldn’t stomach spending $400 for the winch mount. I pulled the bumper off and mocked everything up, I’m using 4”x1/4” angle above and below the main plate to mount it to the frame. It’s...

Typical “new” LR logic. Offer an engine in two platforms where nobody really wants it, then don’t offer it in the one everybody has been clamoring for and would sell like hot cakes.

Using the “Range Rover” name for 5 models has cheapened it. IMO, it’s a Range Rover or it isn’t, there should only be one. Call the Sport something else, they do sell a lot so I’d keep it around. The D5 has been hideous since day 1, and hasn’t grown on me a bit. As has been said in other...

I really don’t get the point. I had considered building a “Defender 100/108” off a RRC/D1 chassis by importing the front clip and building the tub from scratch (it has extremely simple lines), but decided it wasn’t worth it purely for the vanity.

If you’re running the solar panel just for the fridge, then just KISS and add a completely separate battery. Solar panel > charge controller > small deep cycle battery like a group 24 > fridge plug. Do not tie into the primary battery or vehicle wiring at all. Should last fine for a weekend in...

Not sure I’m understanding correctly. So the battery was run down flat, not died as in won’t hold a charge? Meaning you didn’t have to replace it? If so, I’d be ready to soon, and low voltage will absolutely cause suspension faults.

Bummer to hear, but that’s the stuff that happens to any vehicle. Battery, alternator, radiator, etc. The faults were all likely related to that, I had every light and chime on the dash pop up when my alternator went out. Jumped it, replaced the alternator, cleared the codes with the GAP tool...

Thinking outside the box here. To seat tire beads, you need capacity and CFM, not necessarily a ton of pressure. What’s already on your vehicle that can double as an air tank? I’d drop the spare tire, remove the valve core, and build a female schrader to female air quick connect hose about 12”...

I went onboard for two reasons. #1 being my spare tire is larger than stock, so it needs to be deflated to fit under the car. #2, I didn’t want the ability to forget my compressor in the garage or leave it in another vehicle. The ARB has a thermal cutoff switch, so I was less concerned about...

Rear looks great, side looks great, wheels are hideous but simple swap. Front looks like a Range Rover Sport, which isn’t good IMO.

I’d put a used one on it, had no idea they were $500 new. I may be incorrect but I believe they need to slip/stall at highway speeds for proper cooling, it’s not just about MPG and efficiency. Otherwise I’d just tack weld it...