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unistrut. Often called U-channel or superstrut. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Superstrut-1-5-8-in-x-10-ft-Metal-Framing-Channel-ZB14HS10PG/100183826#.UX6dNJFvCAY take seat out of truck. unbolt sliders from bottom of seat. cut unistrut to be length of slider plus your desired leg room. bolt...

weird, posting was flagged. Do you have the seller's contact still?

for $55k, I'd want the rear shackles to be installed correctly (they're backwards).

sooo cool. Is it a V8?

Interested to hear your reaction to the G-Turbo. I hear nothing but good things. But... did you ever bump your timing? Or tune your IP? My 1HDFT boost to 15psi very quickly. I'm running about 1MM of advance, and have lightly tuned the IP (reduced the aneroid spring, and turned fuel up 1/2...

cool truck. never seen a hardtop like that... with built in vents and such. What is the circular shape that hangs down behind the driver's head?

Not sure if this link will work (on my phone); but I actually prefer these cheapo homebuilt controllers. You can build one for half the price, but I'm lazy and they can tap threads straighter then I can. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002KAXO7Y/ref=mp_s_a_5?qid=1332461214&sr=8-5

What sort of boost numbers are you seeing at cruise and wot? 15psi is a pretty safe number, and will also bring your EGT down a hair. You can find a cheapo boost compensator on Amazon or ebay. I just did both boost compensator and timing bump on my friends 1HZ+T 60 series and it had a...

i highly suggest advancing the timing about 1mm. There is a mark on the pump and the timing case... loosen the two bolts holding the pump to the case... and the larger nut at the back of the pump... then use a small crow-bar and move the top of the pump toward the block... 1mm will decrease...

I've seen that truck in person. It is well thought out, and well built. He's done a ton of work to get all the bugs out. Killer Sportsmobile.

the 1HDFT are notoriously detuned. There are several adjustments to make to the injection pump to get boost earlier. Read this: http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/1hdft_pump_adj.html and don't be afraid to experiment. Just keep track of the changes you make. I have a manual boost...

my intercooler is a 3" wide ebay special. All the tubing is steel. It ain't pretty, or well routed. But, just goes to show... even a cheap intercooler set-up will work well. Some photos in this album...

Uhm... that's 800F. Pre turbo. (read: that's cold).

you are going to love this truck. I have a 1995 with a 1HDFT/H151. 3" exhaust, intercooler, and 3:1 transfer gears. My only tiny complaint is that with anything shorter than 255's or 295's... the 5th gear is a little short (but, i live in CA where 75mph is the slow lane). But with the fuel...

thanks. I'm just worried about the weight being on the towers causing cracks in the fiberglass.

been searching high and low, and can not find an answer. For those using Thule or even Yakima, gutter mounts... how do you clear the towers? this is a small columbus on Thule mounts on a 1995 80 Series land cruiser. i'm worried that the weight sitting on the thule towers will crack the tent.

so....

the 6BT actually sort fits better than a 4BT, because of the turbo placement. On my 4BT conversion, i cut down a 6BT manifold to move the turbo forward; and thus the engine farther back. I also cut the oil pan. I then was able to get the drivetrain in with zero lift. No kidding. I did end...

sometimes you need to start simple... check to make sure the battery cables are all tight and clean, and make sure the engine has a good ground. It could be that there's just enough resistance from a bad connection that when the starter is engaged the voltage is dropping to the fuel solenoid.

Hello? (crickets) Hellllooooo?! (crickets)