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It needs to clear when turning and also compressing the suspension. The outer tread will hit the fore-aft fender when turning if the tire is too outboard. A lift doesn't help unless it's a lot (5"+) and you limit the up travel accordingly. A 2" level is plenty, and taller tires will give you...

Yes, you need to balance the offset so you can clear the fore-aft fender with the outer tread, and also the radius arm and swaybar with the inner. If the OP wants to keep the stock rims, 35s are probably best. Or get new radius arms.

It sounds like you'll be cutting aluminum and timber as well as foam. Do you have any details of that structure? Cutting off the top in one piece and adding sidewalls would probably be the best. Rigs always involve compromise, and there are good aspects to not being too tall. If it was me...

Seeing plenty of people with 37s and stock radius arms...

In general springs would be best, but when you are loaded you'll have less than 2" of lift... which should be fine. Bilstein 5160s oddly have a 90 day warranty vs limited lifetime on the 5100s. Check forums and such to see the experiences people have of honoring that, and how much trouble it...

That big thing/hole at the front roof is for a refrigeration unit I guess? Do you want to raise all of the roof, and if so, why?

What's over the entry door, now?

Digressive (and high) damping is main thing for that, and they can both be custom valved. I think the bigger shock and external reservoirs mainly allow for greater sustained cycling without overheating. In other words you can get the damping you need with a smaller shock, but they will be more...

Since the camper is 98" wide anyway, might as well get the wider truck with the better turning radius. The NLs are in the 3,000 to 4,000 lb range, wet. If you can keep the axle weights <8,000 lbs total, then LT tires are viable.

Yes, even loaded on the highway I run 35-40 psi , and down to 20 on washboard. 325/65r18s which are fat 35s.

You don't need any lift to fit 37s, but you may hit the radius arm or swaybar if the wheels are too tucked in, or the front and rear of the fender/wheelwell if the wheels are too far out. A lift doesn't help these issues. 11.5" or 12.5" tires on narrowish rims would be best. The internet is...

That's no different than any other mod. If you mod something the dealer will void the warranty on any related parts. If you want to make the frame stronger, I'd advise finding out where the weak parts are (where it has failed for others) and reinforce those areas, but do not stiffen them...

I just had a look at Consumer Report's assessment, and though the '22 and '23 models had a lot of issues, the '24 is much better... but then it takes awhile for problems to become apparent, so that wouldn't give me much of a warm feeling. I'd go in expecting it to be no better than anything...

I don't know what your tiedowns look like, and I have no experience with this sort of camper/mounting. I do know that the 1st Gen Tundra has a C channel frame that would twist, and a hard mount to the camper will twist it as well. Domestic campers had C channel then too, so it isn't an odd scenario.

Utah plates.

The Tundra will have a good amount of torsional twist, so tight straps will fight with the camper.

Buying a POS camper and gutting it so you can use the POS shell... just doesn't make a lot of sense. There are lightweight pop-up shells that mount to your bed rails. Seems like that would be ideal. If you want a slide in shell, look at ATC... All Terrain Camper. They are a cheaper version of...

What are the truck and camper models?

There is a berth covering it. Actually they were laughing about it. These were just black bears in CA, not grizzlies. Black bears are not a problem... even mothers with cubs. The bears were around because it's a popular camp spot, and the bears are acclimated to humans. I'd never camp in such a...

Oh that's right, these are only for your pop-up pieces. Much less structural concern there... after all, most are using canvas... :p