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That's doable for sure. They're simple connections and there are tons of bulkhead options that would work. Plug the panels in to the camper top and plug the goal zero into the bulkhead from within. Then you don't have to undo the pass through each time you take the panels off.

Have you considered a bulkhead connector? Just unplug it when you remove the panels.

I’m glad you’re taking care of it correctly. I’d check on those hoses. Silicone doesn’t get along with gasoline unless it has a proper inner liner that isn’t effected by gasoline. Also those hose clamps are incorrect for silicone. They’ll eventually chew up the hose.

That's rough! I would definitely be telling them exactly how shoddy that crap is. If they're having to carve up their own flatbed to fit it on something, they should probably consider building them differently for different trucks. I would be returning that crap but I'm sure they won't be too...

Not sure anyone is profiting from these builds except the shops paid to build them. I just think people lose interest when they realize that they're not all that in to camping after all, then they sell at a loss. This guy wasn't the original owner and it was all built by someone who was paid to...

Such a nice build. Crazy that someone would have something like that built then suddenly decide they don't need it anymore. `

Those look nice!

Any general feedback on side view mirrors is appreciated. I found that the standard mirrors don’t work too well with a lift and large tires plus they’re huge and ugly. I’m not entirely against them but I definitely like the looks of the Elf mirrors better.

I’d like to run mirrors like this rather than the giant door mounted units common on US versions. https://www.ebay.com/itm/401842236097?hash=item5d8fa9eac1:g:fhAAAOSwJHdg3rky I can’t find the arms that mount them though. The sockets that the arms mount to are there on the US market trucks but...

^ second that. I’ve turned down plenty of sockets. Grinding will work but it will take longer than necessary.

yup. I normally spend more time staring and planning then I do actually building. That way, it usually works the first time around.

I’d rather use a washer when the backside is accessible like that but those “grappler” rivets are good if you can’t access the backside of soft material. Some blind rivets are designed to break off the mandrel flush. They’re stronger in shear like that.

Yeah having another shop do a one off wouldn’t make sense since I can do it myself. If someone had me make this from scratch it would easily be a few thousand dollars. No the isuzu transmission was meant to shift like this and the shaft comes out of the side of the case so it’s a little...

Nobody makes one for an NV4500 though

What for?

Thanks! I searched high and low for one before I started. If there was enough demand I could replicate this pretty easily.

Here’s the inside of the “X,Y” box

Finally finished the shifter linkage and clutch hydraulics. I’ve been busy as hell at the shop so it’s hard to work on my own project. Anyway it shifts well as is but I may try some tweeks. Ignore the zip ties. I haven’t received the proper clips to retain the cables yet.

^ same setup under my NPR but I have a set of dynatracs pro rock 60 and 80 that will eventually go under there along with a linked or radius arm front suspension.

You can also just bump form with the press brake to create a radius.