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Any fab shop with a nice press brake can make those. I would try a local shop first.

Probably because they’re completely adequate for most people plus they ride better. They’re not using a more expensive tire, just because.

When you’re dealing with a fuel tank that you can’t or don’t want to weld to, you can install a bulkhead AN fitting just about anywhere you can access the inside of. The fuel pump assembly or right next to it is usually perfect. Then run a small piece of hose or line down to within a couple...

You have to do the same thing except you don’t have the liberty of removing the bed for access.

I don't like the hitch ball idea at all really but I definitely wouldn't put a soft washer under the hitch ball. If you want to cushion that assembly, cushion where the reinforcement bolts to the frame. The cushions you have drawn between the frame and the reinforcement plate aren't really doing...

I have the older BFGs also but try finding a 16.5" tire at any random tire shop. I want 17s so when I'm travelling I have more options if I need a tire. Otherwise the 16.5" military stuff is a good option for cheap fun locally. That's why I built them up to use as I was building my truck and camper.

Availability of tires. Choices for a 16.5” wheel are very limited.

I agree. Not hard. Mine came out great. No noticeable issues at 70mph either. Too bad I’m ditching them for 17s asap

It's a losing battle trying to deal with all the potential resting places. Drain holes work to some extent but if a place holds mud/dirt and doesn't drain, it will eventually rust pretty badly. I think avoiding mud whenever possible is best plus some added shielding to prevent the tires from...

I like those. Any detail pics of them open? Particularly the seal and latch interface spots? I've seen a number of methods

5 years to expire then 2 more years if you send it in for recertification. They might last years after that but can fail unexpectedly.

Very expensive compared to a tank. They also expire and eventually start leaking.

I currently have H1 hummer wheels that I recentered with 3/8” plate. Very minimal tire choices though. If I can find a good source for 17” blanks I’ll draw my own centers and beadlock components to have laser cut locally. I’d be happy to build other sets too but so far I’m not finding any blanks...

You're not wrong but you can probably get the bed off in 10 minutes too. No disconnecting fuel lines or wiring plus for this application, everything remains sitting there as it is installed so you know exactly what you're dealing with in terms of clearance and routing for plumbing.

Don't remove the tank. It's almost always easier to leave it in place and remove the bed. Get a few buddies to help, it's really easy and you can have it unbolted in probably 10 minutes, unplug the lights and lift it off. A T into a fuel line wouldn't work either. The pump is in the tank and...

I’ve been considering making my next set if I can find a source for good rim blanks. I might just buy the 17” DD beadlocks from TWF and cut and weld my own centers.

My rear overhang is very small. If I did put a small box there it wouldn't hang down low enough to get outside of the departure angle line. Any pics of yours?

What do you have, what do you like about them and what changes would you make? please post detailed pictures if you don’t mind. I’m starting to think about building mine and would love some real world feedback

It's common on some trucks to delete the vacuum or electric transfer case shifter with a lever and a push pull cable. My truck is far from a stock Isuzu but that's what I have done so maybe you could too. On my transfer case when you unbolt the electric actuator motor there is a shaft sticking...

I didn’t even see that on the jeep. Maybe I skipped past it. That’s definitely pointless