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Common rails don’t have an injection pump. They’re more like typical fuel injection but at a higher pressure. The pressure control valve is like a pressure regulator in a typical fuel injection system.

It maintains the proper pressure within the rail

https://vpracingfuels.com/product/vp-trigger-fluid-control-system/?c=237&

It has a fuel pressure control valve right? If that was faulty it would explain it starting when you clamp the return. Still doesn’t explain why it runs fine once you do get it to start. Perhaps whatever controls the pressure control isn’t initially doing anything until it’s running.

Realistically, airing down doesn’t need to happen as often as some people think but if I were you I’d run a decent sized tank and a couple compressors like viair. Use two compressors that would be rated for your tire size on their own.

Well I just ordered the PDM 15 from Hardwire. It's in stock stateside so I'll have it soon. I should be able to get it wired up in a minimal capacity pretty quickly. I'll document it in my build thread. I'm excited to get rid of all the unnecessarily complicated wiring that the NPR has now. Plus...

The spod I installed a couple years ago definitely wasn't solid state. Good to see they have updated. That thing was kind of lame for the price. Good point though. I forgot about those as they seemed more for accessories than for fully wiring a vehicle. Aux beam looks like it just uses solid...

Is anyone using one of these for this application yet? Seems like an untapped resource. I use them occasionally in the custom car/race cars that I build. Many of them have limited inputs and or can bus control only but recently I came across an option that offers fully analog inputs for...

I have my NPR insured as an RV and at an agreed value with Grange. No appraisal was asked for, just an agreed value.

use a #10 nose and a #8 washer to back up the insert. You could try it without the washer but the insert might distort

If your extra fuse block has the needed capacity then I’d definitely use that. Powering it off of your secondary battery would make sense too.

The SPOD stuff doesn’t do anything for me. The screen is funky and inaccurate in regards to where you have to touch vs where you think you should. I would just get a small PDM and use your aux switches to trigger it.

I've never heard that about monstaliner. Sounds like a biased opinion rather than actual experience but maybe not.

It just doesn't make sense to me to spend much on paint for vehicles like ours. I'd definitely go the DIY route with something that can take the abuse. I did monsta liner on my NPR cab and will do the same on the camper box. On the roof of the camper I am going with Hy Tech roof guard bus coat...

I just used .032" 3003 aluminum sheet glued to aluminum tube with sikaflex.

Is anyone running water/meth injection?

Dana 60 front, Sterling 10.5 rear. Front leafs are F350 lift springs. They’re ok. Steering is slightly limited. Probably doing coils when I swap axles. I have a set of dynatrac axles. Dana 60 and 80 The rear coils are 675lbs? Something like that. I’d have to check. We’ll see how it rides once...

The 4L80 is. It’s very straightforward. A 6L would require a later computer and harness though. Still pretty straightforward. Edit… I believe the 6l computer is inside the transmission. Still pretty simple.

Then you’re possibly on borrowed time already. I’d consider a 4l80 or 6l90

Which transmission?