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I would find a place close to you and drive it over there for the DS. Let them measure it, that way if it doesn't fit it's on them. I'm about 50/50 on getting correct shafts when I have done the measurements. Even when done exactly how they specified.

Spacer blocks are bad Umkay. Taller pack with a longer shackle would be much better.

If you have everything working like it should and good batteries a 7.3 will start without assistance down to -10F. Granted it will sound like there are bowling balls rolling around the crank case, but they will do it. If it's going to be below about 15F, I put the block heater on a timer. Makes...

Highly recommend John for the trans. Replace the flex plate at the same time. Mine cracked about 6 months after I had the trans done.......

Have you thought about some skid plates?

All that style of rim were 8X6.5

I had not seen a walk through bathroom before. This could save a lot of hassles on My current build. Have to run it buy the warden and see if it acceptable or not....... Thanks for the vid!

BTW, the Acerbis hand guards now have a cast structural member. Unlike the old wrought ones that would bend a little these just shatter. Avoid them.

Well, they are 24W a piece so? I never noticed any charging issues with them even on cross country trips driving all night long. They were the driving pattern, would not recommend running them all the time unless you like pissing people off. If I were to do it over again, I would get a wide/fog...

KLR with a 16T front sprocket will be pretty happy at highway speeds. If you run a small front sprocket and spin them up for long periods, they like to use oil. A jet kit an silencer really wake them up and shed a few pounds. Lighting needs help. Some LED pods tied in to the highbeams will do...

Changes title to "Project ADD".......

Just jam that F'er in there, deformed threads are better than loctite!

How would one get the blue sea relay to cut out at a certain voltage point like the Sterling relay?

CL11, tow vehicle at every silt bed to pull them through. But they "finish".........

Pre-running is the most fun, The older I get the less I want to be stuck in a silt bed for hours on end.

A 1" shaft displaces more fluid than a 7/8" shaft. You will get more damping from it. Being that a 3.0 has way more damping capacity than a 2.0, you will not be needing to use it nearly as much. N2 pressure depends on the shock an the application. Resi out the top like a coil-over in a race app...

Square B&S motor is hard to do on a 45* motor. Your pistons want to run into each other at the bottom of the stroke unless you have really long rods. With this comes a very low rod ratio and your ports have to be sized to reflect that. Easier to make good power from a 90* motor like a Ducati...

OK, lets set a few things strait. Pressure ramp up is good to a certain point, it helps fight cavitation. Even on 3.0 Coil overs, I set the air space in the resi pretty low to help combat cavitation. Correct, a long as your hose volume is less than your shaft displacement. If it is more, a...

Swap the rear diff and be done with it. I have a severe dislike of wheel spacers/adapters.

To make them digressive you would need a dished piston like Bilstien uses to pre-load the shim pack. There is no extra pre-load to be had on Fox and Kings, the nut is tight. You can plug bleed holes for more slow speed damping. Digressive is for road cars, it will make the ripples in fire...