Search results

online I’m assuming?

Good info guys thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear. I'll be sure and go through a dealer as mentioned too for piece of mind and support.

I just plan to run the aux for my fridge and accessories and use the aux as a backup starting battery should the primary ever have a problem, is that possible on 8AWG? If so then that's excellent, since it's much easier to work with and run. My AUX battery will be 100Ah, and using the Redarc...

I was planning on sacrificing a set of jumper cables at 4AWG to run back to another 27F or similar 100Ah battery, but your saying 8AWG would work? If so that'd be much easier to work with, seems too small from all I've read though?

Looking into some options and I like the Victron 712, but I've read some poor reviews of the support of lack thereof. I see Renogy has a panel, but so-so construction quality, but it's half the price. There's a device called Battery Checker 100 I think it was but in Australia only, so that's...

Yeah @prerunner1982 just the one that came with the radio. I'm leaning to the Nagoya or the 32" whip that Midland offers with 6db gain. I noticed the squelch was tricky to get right on this radio though, having to go through a menu rather a knob is different but something you can get used to...

So I hooked it up and ran it on the trail for the first time. Checked it once I got home, and the tiny screw-on antennae worked loose and off completely, just left the magnetic nub base behind! So, what are my replacement options? I see the 6db gain $40 whip upgrade from Midland, but is there...

Looking at the safety hub again, I think that's way overkill, and a simpler 6 circuit fuse block would be just fine don't you...

So if the batteries I listed, if you were to choose one, which would it be and why? I don't plan or want to use lead-acid, so AGM or the Renogy gel which I know is fully sealed.

I was under the impression if it's going to be in a battery box enclosure I'm building that holds my Redarc, hub, and gauges in the cabin/cargo area, then it needed to be fully sealed. Is that true?

I was initially going to run a single battery for everything and replaced by OEM battery with the 27F, but once my fridge killed it dead once my truck sat 3-4 days without running, I opted for another approach.

I was comparing the 27F to this: In the $400 range I could get the single battery that's 200Ah though.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084M48255/?coliid=IB0WFLX82SG9H&colid=2FRZM3I4WGK60&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it But there are other options here that are similar...

I know the x2 Power 27F is AGM and dual cycle, not sure of the other Renogy battery though. Is there something I’m missing that makes the 27F that much more expensive?

That's good to know, makes sense with the less frequent cycling and consuming less energy. What type of battery are you using? And what do you think about the 2 different batteries I'm looking at?

Good info to know for sure. I was thinking further and reading some reviews on the Victron 712 and a few folks aren't happy with the support from them I'll say, and having the RedArc BCDC1225 already not sure I can switch up now and might give it all a try as my original plan dictates, but I...

Yeah the settings aren't the most easiest in the world to believe honestly. I ordered the remote thermostat with it, only to find out it can't be changed from Celcius, so that was a waste but lesson learned. I'll try a different fridge next time, hopefully I get many years from this guy though.

Yeah it seems low, I'll definitely assume a higher consumption.

That's a nice setup and sorry to hear about the joblosses, that's a challenge and frustrating in itself, I've been down that road too many times. The winch will come your way soon don't worry, I put a Superwinch TigerShark 11.5 on my GX, the price was great and unbeatable compared to anything...

Awesome thanks, this is my fridge, all that I've got planned for now not counting lights which I haven't decided on yet: Voltage Supply: 12/ 24 // 100-240V Average Power Consumption: 40 Watt Current Draw on 12V: approx. 0.7 Ah/h Battery Protection: 3 stage low voltage protection (Low 10.2V...

Good info much appreciated, only part I have a question with is determining my draw, just take my draw in Ah or watts? So fridge and lights say, and add the draw up and then multiply by hours I plan to run, then just be sure not to exceed the max current available by the AUX battery? I will...