Look carefully at the rim profile to see if it has the safety lip that the bead sits on. I am an old bugger reading this on a phone so I cannot tell from your photos. If it does not have the safety lip (and none of my beadlock rims have had them) then I would be very hesitant about running with...
That gets it out but you still have to squeeze it into a figure 8 to get it into the new tire. I find it easier/safer to do that in the old tire than in the open air. But it sucks either way.
Maybe YouTube university has better methods of removing and installing run flats but I’m too stubborn/...
Looks like sidewalk flex caused by under inflation to me.
Also if you get a really good ratchet strap around the run flat and squeeze it into a figure 8 you can get them out of the tire. Be bloody careful and make sure you use a really high quality strap because you will need to use a cheater...
In that case just document it yourself and then send a request for technical support to them via certified mail. Explain that you are seeking their assistance to understand how this failure happened so you can reliably use their product for the safe operation of your vehicle. Also explain that...
If you know a certified engineer get them to do an observation only report of the damage and the configuration. Photos etc included and store that somewhere if needed for warranty review. Make sure they are OK with signing on the bottom line and maybe even consider getting the signature...
Check the bead profile matches the rim profile. There are a couple of different types. The 365/80R20 that we’re on my yellow truck were MPT and the 395/85R20 are MVT). MPT tires cannot be fitted to MVT rims. MPT rims are not as easy to find as MVT.
Also check that the beadlock insert is not...
Also consider the thermal aspects of any circuit breaker. In my truck last summer my 100amp breakers were tripping with less than 50 amps due to the high ambient temps. (130 + in the cabinet where the solar controller resides.)
ANL fuses are cheap if you buy them early and expensive if you pick...
I have one sitting in my container that I would sell but shipping would be a PITA. If you are interested I could strip the foam off and see how much it could be shrunk down. A sort of reverse IKEA [emoji1]
Regarding the impact wrench for changing tires. I would forgo the air one and get a Milwaukee high or medium torque M18 Fuel. I bought the best Ingersol Rand 1/2 wrench I could get and with air supplied from the truck system it would not break loose the lug nuts which were torqued to 500 ft lb...
These are the current cable numbers I pulled off my rig. In case someone else with a Medic Master is chasing them. While the wiring locations may be different I imagine they kept the same cable/wire numbers across all builds.
Thanks Bob. I am not looking forward to finding the other end of that cable with a tone generator or a meter (or even worse with my decrepit set of mark 1 eyeballs).
I am going to ask all the local guys if they need it first. Otherwise throw it up on flea bay to see what I can get for it...
A question for you ambulance or medium duty guys. Any idea what a wire called "53 Boost Dump" on the ambulance VMUX controller would be for? I am trying to remove the VMUX system entirely including this birds nest.
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