Search results

Furnace needs electricity too.. and if its a standard Suburban furnace its gonna need a ton of electricity, but it sounds like you dont use that much.. I use mine even here in July because its under 40 degrees at night when your 10kft high. Stovetops can go years off 60# of LP, especially...

oh yeah they definitely help w/signal issues, priority is SMS -> Voice -> Data and it often kicks you up a tier, so if you got SMS, the boosters can often give you voice.. and if you have voice, the boosters can often give you data.. usable data becomes the hardest, something like email can work...

yeah I cant say Ive had much experience with any made this century.. the old ones are complete rubbish so they musta came quite a ways if they are now trouble free. Due to the design they still needa be fairly close to level, if your striving for level thats probably not much of an issue.. I...

Thats something to consider, a brand that dont typically push diesels isn't gonna have much experience working on em.. finding a competent dealer is also a big part of the equation, the dealer I had all my warranty work done on sold a ton of diesels and works on em all the time.. I had my entire...

It wont give you a signal if you dont already have a signal to begin with, same thing with data.. those things just solidify a weak signal so its more consistent.. Data Rates are largely dependant on how far away you are too, you can have 5 bars of great 3G/LTE signal but if your a couple dozen...

I boondock too much for that, I need something that can operate off level because getting a 20ft trailer level in the back country is easier said than done, I had a camper van with an absorption fridge and the thing faulted out all the time and left my food warm and didnt really get that cold...

My Fridge takes more than that.. 20-30AH a day is my bare minimum depending on temps, when the suns beating down I can up that to 85AH a day comfortably.. If I need fridge and heat its about 50-60AH day. Ok couple questions then, how the hell is your power needs so low on a camper that big? No...

Most of the emissions controls on diesels are to get them up to operating temp asap, thats when they pollute the most.. If you short trip in a direct injection diesel the duty load on the emissions gear goes way the hell up.. Say you got a 10min commute, well if its cold it takes over 10mins to...

This setup looks familiar, nice work.. Yeah dont count on that, Ive got half as much battery as you and 3x as much solar as you, and still need the generator when the sun's not being cooperative.. Ive gotten it to the point where it gets used extremely little, especially here in Colorado...

the mattress and ladder optional are good, not everyone puts these ontop of a big SUV.. I was looking at a rigid RTT as an option for kiddos with a smaller teardrop size camper.. the size and complexity of a canvas RTT was off the table, and the price of a nice solid rigid RTT just made me go...

Wife reminded me we had a portable swamp cooler in storage from when our house swamp cooler bit the dust.. popped its wheels off and tossed it in the camper for testing, its running off a single solar panel and doing a pretty good job at making the inside far more tolerable.. Gonna make a shelf...

If your filter could catch the dead bacteria/virus it'd of caught the live bacteria already in one of the prefilters.. the only way your removing those w/filters is a RO membrane next.

You seen the poor mans fiberglass technique? (aka PMF) if not go google it.

you fuse it under the lowest rated thing to burn up, closest to the power source, if everything is oversized then you rate it for about 50-200% more than branch load to prevent nuisance trips as long as you follow the first part.. the idea is to sacrifice the fuse before any of the conductors...

if its got an internal LVD it needs a pretty heavy gauge or it wont have a very good idea at battery voltage under load.. the idea is to have basically no voltage drop when you have a remote LVD or else your fridge cuts out early. 2% voltage drop @ 12v is 0.24v, there's a pretty big capacity...

yeah the BlueSea calculator wants total length of conductor, so figure the run 2x for DC.. other calculators may specify for 2 wire conductor and do that for you.. pay attention to that.. if you start using chassis ground for anything considerable its not a bad idea to upgrade/add to your...

sweet, I was having a hell of a time finding AT/MT for my bus since BFG stopped making em in our size.. cant wait to see how they look

make sure your calculations include both positive and negative wiring combined.

you could use a lil DC killowat type thing and a notepad if you want, solar charger and charger will give you an idea of battery state and how much solar your getting, on the simple end to a nice full battery SOC monitoring system that figures it out for you.. wont matter on a dual battery...

I'd suggest at least a simple power meter of some sort on your aux stuff, that way you can know exactly how much power its taking, and your victron solar will tell you how much your putting back in and then you extrapolate your level of comfort.. the fridge cycles will be variable and voltage...