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some final touches to the portable solar panel install, put VibraTite VC3 on all the bolts and got some stainless steel wingnuts for the bottom bracket. Also got 2 spares for everything in the camper spare box incase I lose any out in the field.. this threadlocker is pretty nice, reusable, can...

at low flow rates most of us have you dont need a very high power one I'd think.. would be less energy than running a pump for long enough to generate RO.

ah yeah I forgot those are fluorescent, this would make it 12v: https://www.amazon.com/Realgoal-sterilizer-alarming-Germicidal-Electronic/dp/B07H65HRW5

That big giant power brick on the plug means the light is likely DC, just needa read that label and find out what input it takes and then buck/boost it up to whatever it needs after cutting that off.

in my system I can see all the power being consumed in/out of my LFP w/a shunt, gives me nice historical data and lets me figure out base power needs in dry runs at my house in simulated poor conditions (high heat here in July w/everything sealed up tight).. I know my base needs are 400-500wh a...

With such a fluid goal I would suggest in building up your battery monitoring across your platforms so you gain the insight of predictability.. then re-inforce anything you need as you collect data.. try to stay off your starter batteries as they are not designed to be anything but fully charged...

Yeah not drop in, but it is plug-n-play to the extent they take most of the hard work out of it.. and if you buy into their gear you dont have to do much more than hook it up as their diagrams and documentation outline, select LFP for all the charge sources and hit the road... Its ALMOST as...

Get a pair of Duracell GC2's from Sams for $200 and tha'll run the fridge 4 days pretty effortlessly (>200AH), 150W of solar on the roof will extend it a few more days more than likely.. the LP furnace will kill all that tho depending on how much it runs, you may need to double up on the solar...

one hypermiling technique is when solar is cranking out power to turn the fridge temp down so it runs more and uses that power which would otherwise be discarded, then at night turn the fridge off entirely and coast til morning, effectively using the fridge itself as a battery.. needs far more...

Your LFP & 200W of Solar could run a small power efficient setup comfortably, as long as you can quickly charge that LFP to 100% from your vehicle as needed.. otherwise a couple days w/poor solar and your gonna be in a deficit that's hard to climb out of. a less efficient setup is gonna require...

as much as I agree with the sentiment, I think MTVR is already in up to his ears on this build and has a budget he can offload some of those concerns to someone with a higher paygrade if he's going custom build it route. If it were me with a big budget, I'd be buying the Victron LFP's over...

most people dont have the equipment to make that kinda comparison fairly, you'd need to calibrate em both to the same temps measured at roughly same locations (cant trust those displays at all), fill them both up with the exact same thermal mass, and expose em both to the exact same environment...

on fixed installs I still put anderson pigtail on the solar charger with locking retainer pins, just so I can unplug the panels and work on the solar charger or any wiring downstream without some hot wires dangling about, nobody likes to jam raw copper into something and have a spark either...

these HIT's already run at like 60-70v, so its like two ~32v house panels in series, or almost four 18v panels in a series.. so they hit the begin to charge threshold quicker already without the need to series em. the higher voltage victrons could be used, but when I did the math the premium...

http://www.purewaterclub.com/index.php/rc3-uv.html I've been eyeballing that for the kitchen, mine is supplied by water jugs.. I can get one thats okay to contaminate w/questionable water and have a valve that switches between filter or not depending on if I'm using it.. draining it all out for...

electrons are electrons, if both supplies are of equal voltage they will supply the loads evenly.. this is the whole basis of batteries in parallel. The driving reason to disconnect devices if they are intolerant to eachother, if you have a shore charger that does a high voltage equalization...

@LandCruiserPhil nothing in particular, a friend got one for home and I liked its finish, dimensions and fan output.. seems to work well so far but ive not got alot of seasons into it.. gonna bolt some rails on it and have it slide in and out of my slide out kitchen, that way I can drain it onto...

I produce ice with this on my house inverter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7SGQ52/ Takes about 10A of load and makes enough ice to chill a mixed drink in less than 10mins, in comparison its extremely efficient and ran on demand when the battery is full and I've got >150W of excess...

Okay, thats fine.. however, be prepared to lift a rather heavy energy need for this capability.. sounds like your coming from basically nothing energy usage wise, right to making a pound of ice a day.. how much money and room you got for batteries and solar panels? You sound like you need...

You do Realize 400AH @ 12V == 200AH @ 24V right, thats the same power.. 400AH @ 24V would be twice the power. You could run 4x12v 100AH BB's, 2 in a series, 2 in parallel.. 200AH @ 24V, just because your AH went down dont mean your runtimes did, because all yoru 24v appliances now take half as...