Crap. On mobile and can't edit. Bar on the drivers side all the way forward! Passenger side all the way back. Stick a pen between your fingers with an inch or two sticking out. Go through the shift pattern. Should give you a good idea of what needs to be where.
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I'm pretty sure you want the bar on the left all the way back and the one on the right all the way forward.
I have an extra red valled shifter that still had good life in it. It was replaced about 4 years ago. But I picked up a white ball shifter a few weeks ago at the pick a parts.
Only...
2nd on the tire pressure. I was on the mid 40s. I was sure glad I checked because I was heading out on a 10day 2k mile trip first leg was across the desert at 100+ degrees.
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thanks and appreciate it. I did bring some tools along, seems like unless you're getting into the drive train, 10, 12, 14, 17mm you can do anything on these cars. We won't be going back through that direction until later next week on our return to LA.... and even then, we don't have a route...
I've got a copy of the fsm with me I'll be digging into after dinner. The about of pressure was pretty crazy. To the point of air rushing out for several seconds after fully removing the cap.
The pending code is what had my spicy senses on edge. The code never fully hit. But something was...
A few more miles down the road and some elevation change and it is happening. This time with a near full tank gas is sputtering out with the cap fully removed.
I'll probably try going for a bit with a loose cap just to keep pressure from getting too high.
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20 miles down the road. Just a normal amount of pressure build up.
Strange. I did notice at my last check that the gas cap did seem to start clicking early, and a few more twists and the cap when on tighter.
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I'm on the road in Utah. Filled up in Vegas several hours ago. Temps have been 100+ the whole day.
At some point I had a pending CEL come on picked up by my ultra gauge of p0450. Everything else was normal. The full CEL never was thrown.
Now just outside of St George, I'm filling up and my...
that front is a beast... get some help..... will be interested to hear about the manual hubs once on the rig.
are you going to torque up the front torsion bars?
not much to go on..... but I'll bet there is salt use on the roads up there.... so you're probably going to have some rust.
I like the black.... at 176 even if the tbelt/w-pump was done, its going to be due again... plus you've got a lot of belts/hoses/seals that may need attention. Not...
I find the rear seat folded back, with my legs diagonally across the arm wrest over the passenger seat is quite comfortable for 20 minutes power nap in the parking garage when I just can't keep my eyes open :victory:
I know doing this has been discussed in a lot of other threads, and with the fan bolted to the car/frame/ground location, the DC voltage is probably returning through those connections, but has anyone measured how much power is going through this grounded wire? This helps to make sure that the...
Yeah, that helps... and you're spot on with the name.
Sounds like I'll just need to hack out the one I have and replace it. All of my connectors and connections look good and clean (no rust).... it might be just that the device has given up the ghost.
going to do some testing on the trailer...
I plugged in my 4 pin blade style (I assume from the factory) tail light converter for a small trailer yesterday, and the trailer lights were VERY dim. Connecting one of the tail lights directly to he battery and it was plenty bright. I was also having problems with the running lights on the...
bolted it all back up and seems to run good... I do get a little whining noise when applying power, but I can't determine if that is something from the engine or the drive train... I'm going to try to pop into overdrive and see if the sound persists when applying power....
As long as I'll...
Define "slop". The amount of play in the flange from a rotational aspect feels to be about the same as the other diff I have. Maybe 5 degrees more.
I'm tempted to just throw the drive shaft back on and not measure with a weight hanging off one of the flange bolt holes set at 3 and/or 9...
So I've got the flange back on, it doesn't move too much more than the flange on my old diff. (see video)
The flange on the old diff slides on and off VERY easily and smoothly, the flange on this 4.636 diff had to be cranked on by tightening the nut. I made a tool I saw someone else make a...
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