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I believe the ones I linked all state they are AGM but I may be mistaken in the details. I think I will go with the Vmaxtanks 125Ah battery since it is the same dimensions as my existing battery. Unfortunately I cant get it from anywhere before this weekend so I will be struggling with my 10Ah...

Orr....I could spend a bit more and get 25% more capacity with a 125Ah battery that is the same dimensions...thoughts...

This battery is the same dimensions as the Renogy and it gets better reviews, anyone ever work with this brand or hear anything about them? https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-amp-Hour-100AH-Sealed-Battery/dp/B07BS1ZB15/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=agm+100ah+deep+cycle&qid=1572442669&sr=8-6 I will go...

Bumping my question, if I were to go away from LA and go down the Li route, would I need to swap any other equipment than the battery or would everything that I already have work with the new tech? IF NOT --- Sealed it is, any recommendations on the best bang for the buck (AMG? GEL?)?

I maintain my trailer daily haha so trust me the topping off or whatever wouldn’t be an issue. I mounted the IP67 directly over the battery which the charger manual said not to do with a lead acid battery which I assumed was due to gassing. I don’t want to spend much more than $200...I’ll...

I’m afraid of lithium. Plain and simple. No room for tray or box, literally. Absolutely want nothing to do with maintaining the battery besides charging correctly now that I have been schooled extensively (and much appreciated).

The battery is in my camper cabin, I dont want to ever have any concern about gas regardless of loads or otherwise. I never want to worry about a leak or adding fluids.

welllll ********! Any recommendations for a replacement? Need sealed and need to be about the exact size of the Renogy 100Ah...

Yes 100Ah Renogy. Is this something they may cover under warranty? Its barely 1 year old. With the heated blanket on a few loghts and fan it was reading 9.5v on the multimeter at the battery terminals...

So I had to restart the test a few hours after the first attempt and a charge in between. Im not sure what to make of this. After 2 hrs BVM was showing sub 8V and when I cut everything off it was showing 12.2V. Battery toast?

Looks like my Blue and Brown are swapped on my rig. Wired it all up and lights work fine. Im getting 14v from the aux with a multimeter. DC/DC converter should be here soon today.

Jumping ahead again, for the DC/DC converter I am hooking into the + and - of the 7 pin right?

This time remaining estimate isnt looking too hot Its been running for less than an hour so far.

Alright so I am back and ready to get this capacity test completed. With A LOT running I was able to get up to 9A draw. I will start the test tomorrow morning and monitor closely as I will be home. Took some snap shots of the charger and BVM prior to testing. Charger plugged in for a few...

What is a good desktop/benchtop battery charger for Lead/Acid batteries that would not break the bank.

With everything at full blast and fridge running I think I peaked at maybe 8 or 9A but that stuff never runs that way...I only did that for testing. I will be giving it a full on test next week when I return from a work trip using the BMV, but I don't think I will ever exceed 10A. Everything...

So about that, my entire system is self contained and I have pretty much 0 steel to ground to. The frame under the camper body is aluminum, separated by 3/4" plywood all around, and everything wiring wise is isolated from the trailer light wiring (for now until I get the DC/DC converter).

Yessir! 1 connection on the battery end of the shunt and 3 connections on the Load/Charger side (Fuse box, IP67 charger, Renogy Rover MPPT). Once I get the DC/DC converter I will have 1 more connection on the Load/Charger side but I will be testing that out using the existing Rover cabling...

I think it’s hooked up right. I followed the instructions in the pic. I changed the input from mid to starter and it seems happy now! That first little guy next to the RJ11 is B1 so I’m hooked up to spec :)

Welll....RTFM moment. Page 5 of the manual step 1.2 explains what AUX INPUT is. I needed to select the AUX monitor cable function. As soon as I did that it showed my voltage and then a few seconds later the midpoint deviation alarm started going off with 99.6% deviation? I have not yet...