Need the solar/power pros to weigh in

[SBDuller]

If you do have a ground, wire it to the load side of the shunt. In some applications the ground/chassis connection carries current, and needs to run through the shunt to keep the meter accurate.

You do not generally need to bond the ground/chassis to negative, especially if you don't have an inverter.

The wire is not necessary.

I do it becsue I've seen allot of crazy things and I never know what will be done in the future.

these two quotes seem to answer my vehicle chassis ground question.

 

[TantoTrailers]

This time remaining estimate isnt looking too hot Its been running for less than an hour so far.

 

[luthj]

That estimate is based on some fields you probably left as default. You are mostly concerned with the AH consumed value. By the time the battery hits 11V under a 9A load, you should be around 80AH removed if the battery is healthy. If its substantially lower than that, you have some capacity loss.

 

[shade]

That estimate is based on some fields you probably left as default. You are mostly concerned with the AH consumed value. By the time the battery hits 11V under a 9A load, you should be around 80AH removed if the battery is healthy. If its substantially lower than that, you have some capacity loss.

Considering the reconditioning that the battery required, that's a possibility.

 

[TantoTrailers]

Jumping ahead again, for the DC/DC converter I am hooking into the + and - of the 7 pin right?

 

[dreadlocks]

 

[TantoTrailers]

Looks like my Blue and Brown are swapped on my rig. Wired it all up and lights work fine. Im getting 14v from the aux with a multimeter. DC/DC converter should be here soon today.

 

[TantoTrailers]

So I had to restart the test a few hours after the first attempt and a charge in between. Im not sure what to make of this. After 2 hrs BVM was showing sub 8V and when I cut everything off it was showing 12.2V. Battery toast?

 

[dreadlocks]

ouch, yeah thats not looking good.. is this the 100AH Renology (cheap) AGM? if so I dont know if there is much more you can do.. its dropping dead w/16AH outta it.

Check all your connections just to make sure its not user error.. if this was flooded you could do a few things to try to desulfate it, but w/a sealed battery your options are minimal.

 

[luthj]

Check the voltage at the battery terminals with the load on. If its sub 10V with any load, the battery is fully discharged. Which would indicated 16AH capacity based on your BMV count.

 

[TantoTrailers]

Yes 100Ah Renogy. Is this something they may cover under warranty? Its barely 1 year old.

With the heated blanket on a few loghts and fan it was reading 9.5v on the multimeter at the battery terminals...

 

[luthj]

They might offer some warranty service. Though if you were chronically undercharging it, I have seen lead batteries under 50% capacity in under 100 cycles.

 

[dreadlocks]

you could try but I doubt you'd get anywhere with warranty, the'll claim neglect/user error.. which would is often not covered, if you bought it at a battery store locally you could probably get a pro-rating on another one.. if you got it off the internet your going to loose money if you have to mail that anywhere on your own dime.

 

[luthj]

For a cheaper battery its not worth messing with. For a more expensive one, a few months on a desulfator may bring it back by 20-30%.

 

[TantoTrailers]

welllll ********! Any recommendations for a replacement? Need sealed and need to be about the exact size of the Renogy 100Ah...