If you didn't changed the gear positions when you took the pump of, then they won't be any different now and it should still run. Even if is as before and blowing white smoke.
Okay lets go.
I take it you know where your timing marks are on the engine. Remove tappet cover and number one...
Maybe / could be, something as simple as timing of the injector pump. The pump sounds like it is working if the injectors are spraying fuel so I would be checking that timing is right.
Dan.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4iev7656pu3nevg/Fuel%20Timing%201.pdf?dl=0
I have welded rims numerous times and there is probably not a right way or wrong way other than using the right welding rods. If they are a rim repair mob than they will know what is best.
I will say that they are probably cracking from fatigue (rim is flexing). Rim blanks were not heavy...
My situation would have been it would have gone back to them and not even driven home if the fault happened before I left town that is for certain. It's a new Vehicle not one with FAULTS on leaving their yard. Not good.
Dan.
Australian 4D33 are cable as I would believe are 4D34 here. Drive by wire was only done on computerized as far as I know so maybe 4D34T here may be as well.
Dan.
But short answer is yes I do believe that you could put a 4D33 in and all the wiring should fit right up. Saying this I have not done it but my belief is so. You could run a turbo 4D34 if that was available complete (non-computerized). You would need the exhaust down pipe as well.
Dan.
Thread starter Chriswarren
" Hey lads, new here
Currently have a Mitsubishi canter 1993 model. Running a non turbo 4d34 and she’s about to let go, I don’t have the time to pull her out and fix it, I want to find another engine and drop her in away I go. My Problem is finding a non turbo 4d34...
As long as you put the right oil in, it sounds fairly normal. Don't forget they are Limited Slip so every corner the clutch packs are slipping creating heat.
Dan.
The reason to stick with a Canter was to keep the vehicle Canter width. Other wise I may as well have gone with a larger 4WD truck (probably cheaper option). This is being made to run old drill rig routes in the desert. Some of these are getting very overgrown so a wider truck will have trouble...
I went for a drive last week (2,500Klm / 1,550Mls) to pick up my "victim" for my "Yes or No" vehicle. It is a 2000 model FE637 with a long chassis so I don't have to give it stretch. Engineer loves that.
It has a 4D33 4.2l non-turbo engine. It will be getting a turbo as part of the conversion...
I've been away for a the week.
Yes. reverse in these boxes are constant mesh, run through an idler gear set. First and reverse are on the same slider - dog teeth and possibly syncros either side. Why they ever made the position for them and never fitted them is their story.
When I have one...
Ok, I've just gone through this looking for a suitable chassis for my "Yes or No" vehicle and can tell you that the running gear on most is the same but there is a difference in the chassis dimensions on some (height, width and thickness). Is this the difference in what you are looking at - you...
One to me looks like 2WD ,possibly narrow Cab, a lot earlier model and the other 4WD, wide Cab, latter model . So your answer is which one do you want.
Dan.
Lets tell a story.
In one of the trucks that I fitted the high speed transfer gears, the shaft out of the gearbox was butchered by previous owners. I ended up taking the gearbox apart to have the shaft spline reground. This is in a FG637, but to my knowledge the same gearbox is used in all the...
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