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Lift looks good...6 lug 2500? What year is it?

I'd be curious what your total track width is up front (outside edge of the tire tread). I'm guessing by looking that it will be in the 81" range...pretty close to where mine will end up..

You first have to decide whether you want front or rear wheel drive... The Ecoboost and rear wheel drive combo would give you more options if you ever got into tuning or were considering towing large/heavy loads..

"The Shriner" Express3500 Hightop In the heart of a Duramax/Allison/SAS 4x4 Conversion: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/218-vans/925338-2000-express-3500-hightop-lbz-allison-sas.html

If you have a 2500 4x4 suburban donor you'd have most of what you need...still a lot of fabrication to do but you'd have the expensive hard parts.. I looked at going that route but found it to be no easier/better than going solid axle (since I have a bare chassis to work on), I may modify that...

That's a steel for the top and interior parts..

Jeremy, What tire size are you running on this rig...looks like it may be a 285/75? Thanks

Always happy to plug local outfits! I'll need to get with you in a few months about your rock sliders for my Hightop..

I agree...I think they only made AWD 2500 vans for half a model year, then all after that were 1500s.

Some good info in this thread if you want to stay with OEM style IFS 4wd: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/218-vans/442522-2500-3500-van-ifs-4wd-conversion.html There are a couple of us doing solid axle swaps using 1 ton Ram and Super Duty front axles I don't think Quigley...

That's about the smartest design I've seen, would be plenty stable and yet light enough to pull out and use as outside furniture as well..

#3 or less and you should be fine http://www.rr4w.com/Trails-Home.cfm I was there in April and there was a lot of stock minivans out there way past where you'd have thought they'd go... invest in some belly/tank skids..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMPLES-White-Black-RV-Trailer-1-2-5-8-3-4-Vinyl-Insert-Flexible-Screw-Cover/332224101070?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6dd8df6559514ba39a776db082143deb%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D111931935356&_trksid=p204767...

Whenever I have a problem like that I look at both the wheels and the driveshafts, the best way to do it is with a dial indicator, just jack up a tire at a time and set the dial indicator to run on a smooth vertical surface of the wheel and spin it, if you see more than about .005" TIR you have...

It's a must for me, 74" of head room and I'm 73" with a thick pair of shoes... I just drove it 1700 miles from Oregon down to San Diego and didn't have any wind related driving issues, it may be due to the stiffer 3500 suspension. I've drove motorhomes for years so I know what that can be like..

This is the way to deflate...

Glad to hear it helped...I've spent many hours on that site when I was installing an LBZ/Allison combo in my 40yr old FMC Motorhome..

The image size for your diagram is really small so I had a hard time seeing the details, but, it looks like you are staying with a single alternator rather than using the factory optional parts to run dual alternators (ambulance spec); this would make the separation of systems much...

Sure, just select the image in "print view" and print it or you can right click "save image as" and make a folder on your hard drive with everything you need, save that on a thumb drive and just print them out whenever you need to. Are you doing this yourself or having a shop do it for you...

It is a great site but yes, it's weak on electrical prior to about 09 or so. There will be a huge difference between 04 and 11 vans. Get a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com for your specific year/model; google discount coupons/promo codes and you can usually get a years subscription for $15...