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Thank you for the mention. I got tired of soggy gear so I started making my own gear bags. 1000D industrial waterproof TPU material with welded seams, water resistant zippers, wrap around handles, compression straps, end handles, big zipper with a garage, velcro label pad, etc.

Not at all Scott.

Buy something you can revalve, repair, and rebuild. I would also get something that has a bushing style mounts for NVH reasons. My suggestion would be to call Accutune Off Road and have them do some of their custom valving which is basically 'free' if you buy something like a Fox 2.0...

I daily drove this for 12000+ miles last year with 40x13.5R17 tires ( 10K miles on Black Label ( stickier ) Milestar Patagonia MTs, and 2.5K on a set of ProComp MT2s ) It did great. Drove it through one on the worst Colorado winters in a decade. Pulled lots of people out of the ditch. It...

I did a little more digging.... It looks like all the wiring in there. The master cylinder is actually different for the factory trailer brake controller option ( bad ) I guess it has a few pressure switch ports in it? All the parts are still available new. You do need to have the BCM...

I've seen an import winch save the day a lot more than not having a winch at all.

In automatics we have been adding greatly to overall gear spread on both ends. Most historic 3 speed autos where about a 2.5:1 first and a 1:1 3rd. Now we are seeing 4-5:1 first gears all the way to .6X 6-10th gears. And that works WAY better overall. I recently built a older style Toyota Land...

I would be aware that the lower leading edge of the the winch mount can see much more impact abuse off road. The thimble ends can also cause a lot of leverage if you happen to hit them first....or when backing off a ledge.

With synthetic line you don't really have to worry about this much at all. It is nice to be able to see the drum to make sure you aren't bunched on one side when pulling at an angle, but spooling is not that critical.

Has anyone watching ever added the factory trailer brake controller package? The controller in the truck now is just in a very annoying position close to the drivers right shin. I can't seem to find a better place to put it....

It looks like a rebranded MV50 or 1050 compressor. A solid entry level compressor, but not in the same class as the 12V Puma or ARB twin.

With a lot of people upgrading axle shafts, especially in the JK/JL market, I think the cost could be greatly mitigated. Getting the sale at the right time would be key to lump some of the associated cost together. As mentioned earlier, there are oem level suppliers working on this like...

Yes, some on the H1s have CTIS systems.

If I run into them again at EJS I will ask them. With how much I fight with the newer vehicle crowd on the trail about airing down, I don't think it would sell well at this point. I constantly ask people on the trail if they are aired down when they are having issue. I get a lot of 'yes, I...

I think spring rates can stay consistent for a variety of terrain, but the main issue is they can't really stay the same for a variety of loads. Multi-rate springs don't really do much for off road performance in my opinion.....and tend to make shock tuning more difficult. I do thing there is...

I've been running an OX locker for almost a decade. Zero issues.

I wouldn't know what to do if I didn't air down......#1 performance gain for the money. I don't care how optimized the vehicle is, you would be leaving off-road performance on the table if you aren't adjusting the air pressure for the terrain. Air pressure isn't just about full-tread contact...

Yup, but the air line outside the vehicle is the most basic way to do things.

Some pics of the development rig from Dana Spicer. The CTIS one was still a unit bearing based Dana 44, not the 60 stuff.

Generally, that isn't how most CTIS systems work now. Ripping a line off doesn't cause you to lose air pressure in the tire. That would be dangerous. I think it was Syegon, a french company, that had one of the first patents for the modern CTIS wheel valve. Basically, you add air pressure...