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That's a proud and happy dog!

You should find out what he already has and already reloads. If he reloads 300 Win Mag, that would be perfect on all accounts.

I went and dug up my old analysis that I had done back in January of '07. I used an original Rover 10-spline Series shaft. Hardness was 380 Vickers or 36 Rockwell "C" and they are thru-hardened. Closest alloy is 4140

I had a chemical analysis of factory 10-spline series axles, the results of which are back at work. I can post them tomorrow if you want. And as Keith said, yes, they are very close to 4340 alloy. And I think I was the first to say it, and I'll say it again: 10-spline Land Rover axles are...

2nd deer of the year. Taken on a land-owner permit here in Cornwall Ct. with a Marlin 336 in .35 Rem and Leverevolution ammo. Shot through the chest/neck in front of the front legs. Bolted about 100 feet before she dropped. One more to go before the end of the year.

Ya know, if you really want discs, want to increase the rear a bit (but don't really need anything as strong as a Toyota swap) and are on a bit of a budget, this probably makes good sense. I wouldn't even bother with a new R&P...Just put your gears in the newer housing with the spacer and an...

Oh, come on....Say it!

Except that will only get you disc brakes and not address your breakage problem at all.

$2200 for just the front brakes? Are you kidding? For that kind of money I'll come and push the brake pedal for you. Maybe I'm an idiot but I just don't get it.......

Well, ya-all know my vote. Really though, it depends what you do with it and how hard you wheel. Being a 109 I wouldn't think you're doing much rock crawling but also being a 109 it's pretty heavy. If you're on a budget, this is how I'd go: Front: You probably just broke an axle u-joint...

It's not too bad...a bit quieter than the 88. Neither of them are Cadillacs but both are very livable for long distances.

Holy cow! A sticky? I'm honored! Anyway, we've been driving it around for a couple weeks and all is well. Of course there were a couple little glitches. Had to tune in the fuel gauge, the air switch that shuts the fuel off was leaking vacuum and had to be changed. Little things like that...

With the taking of Christopher's first deer I though we should start a thread of everyone's harvest this year. Mark, post those pictures again here and we'll keep it rolling through hunting season. Here's my first one this year. Spike horn taken on a crop-damage permit in north-west...

Good advice. When I was a poor kid I had a cheap rod and reel. I caught more fish on that set-up than any other rig I've owned since. It's the time you spend on the water, not what you're using for gear. Also, don't get all hung up on fly patterns. I'll probably piss off a few hard-core...

Nice buy. Looks almost new. If the tag is still intact the part # for the 4.10 is 41110-3D030.

Nice 110 for the money. Seems these things are getting more affordable these days. Thanks for the compliments. I didn't keep close tabs on it but I've guess that I spend between 700 and 800 hours on it. I figure somewhere between 1000 and 1200 beers too!

For an e-locker with 30K? That's fair.

What a guy! It's an e-locker, right? Offer him $450 or $500. If he's not interested, take a hike. Don't be too worried about a used diff. Not much goes wrong with them and a reputable salvage yard will give you the mileage from the vehicle it comes from. These things aren't gold so don't pay...

They're easy to find, especially if you're looking for 4.10s. Go to any decent salvage yard and they'll have them. Expect to pay$400-$500 for a good one. (I'm assuming you're going to go with an E-locker?)

They're blind 1/4-20 holes. The pans on the Series trucks are tin and are usually bent up from use and over-tightening. An aluminum pan is stronger and flatter and also helps add some strength to the transfer case as a whole. I also use studs on mine and as such can tighten the pan down...