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Welcome aboard. I'm sure you meant LS and not LX right?

True, that did cross my mind a time or two. I for one am saving up for an H1.

While you guys are saving to afford one, and then saving to afford something to put on the back, I'll be driving my more than capable $1500 build. I can say, if I did have the money for that, I'd likely not purchase it because well let's be honest, I don't want to scratch something I just dumped...

Seriously? 97,000 dollars for a work truck with no bed? This boggles my mind. I can buy two fully loaded H1s for this. Someone explain why it's so expensive? I can get a diesel work truck and add some offroad axles, bigger tires,yadda, yadda for a tiny fraction of this price.

Oh, how this makes me want a DSM AWD eclipse. Or a mid 2000s Evo. Time to scour Craigslist..... I cannot wait to see the finished project on this. It's nice to someone with as much talent as yourself make such a fine machine. If for some reason you end up selling it before you run it, or even...

Lucky..... New light force lights, new hubs, friends....... Seriously though, good on ya. Post up the lighting results if you can. I've been looking at the potential for brighter lights on my rig. Those look like they were made for that bumper.

Another vote for locking the diff. Like said, if it's locked and moves, it's an axle shaft. If it doesn't move, likely the pinion shaft. It does seem odd that it broke with your wife driving it on the highway. If after you check it by locking it, the truck remains stationary it is plausible...

You may have to remove the oil pan to get the pump out. Sent from my iPad

Us Mitsu guys have no kool-aid to drink........ We get coffee beans and water. :coffee:

So, I have this issue with the front differential, It would seem that the engagement rod isn't inserting enough to keep the front differential moving without some noise and possible damage. I may soon be pressing the rod in permanently since I have manual front locking hubs. Stay tuned.....

That looks about right... I do appreciate your support sir!!! :ylsmoke: I think that since I have the manual disconnecting front hubs, I will just insert this rod permanently and be done with it.I still need to replace those diff support mounts though.

I like it. Sent from my iPad

Seems as though there isn't enough negative pressure to pull the slide into place. With the line attached to the diaphragm, it will somewhat work. Though very loose and pops out. When I just take both of the vacuum lines off, the front will not even attempt to engage. The test consisted of...

As it turns out, if you disconnect the vacuum from the front diff diaphragm, the differential will disengage. So let it be known that the 2nd generation montero does not have a fail proof system. Unless mine is just jacked up. Now it makes a little more sense.... The way I see it is that I was...

You got a great deal man. They did a good job. Bet you're stoked huh? Sent from my iPad

So no one knows what the proper "lifts" are made of? Sent from my iPad

Since the system is internal same as the speedometer, I don't think you have to compensate at all.

What are the actual body lifts made from?

Without the locking center diff, if one tire started spinning, you wouldn't move at all. Like an open front or rear diff but with 4 wheels. Without the center diff, it's basically an AWD.

I'm with X on this one. Why spend 100 dollars on something he can do for a small fraction of that price if it gives the effect needed. Let us know how it goes?