'10 Tundra CrewMax
- Thread starter zidaro
- Start date
zidaro
Explorer
Finally got a set of sliders for my truck. There are a few companies out there offering true load-bearing rockerpanel protection.
I chose the BudBuilt sliders.
https://budbuilt.com/index.php?page...ategory_id=5&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=170
Some reasons i chose budbuilts:
I have had budbuilt skids and trans. crossmembers for my rockcrawler for years and they are a top-notch product and bud is a top-notch guy.
My 4000lb. crawler has had 2x0.12"wall DOM tubing and i have bent those a few times (albeit falling sideways off a waterfall and landing directly on them) so i knew i wanted a thicker wall tubing for a larger truck.
These are able to support jacking both wheels off the ground (supporting the weight of truck w/o bowing) and the doors still open.
I wanted lower-profile sliders on this truck as it is not a rock-truck. I have a camper that must off-load using jacks that are close to the truck. My tires wont be sticking out too much further than the wheelwells so no slider kickouts are needed if pivoting around a boulder. Still will block shopping carts, doors, and sliding on ice tourist bumpers.
Follows the body lines best and looks natural and unobtrusive under the rocker.
Makes a very nice step.
I opted for the 0.187 walled Beefy InsideOut Sliders for my Crewmax.
Bud offers a 0.12wall slider as well.
The powdercoating seems to be good quality and better than some companies i have had powdercoatings added
5 support legs with heavy L bracing to mount on the frame.
BTW- The frame on the crewmax and doublecab is the same, but the rearmost slider mount lines up differently due to the cab/bed mount differences between frames.
Simply jacked the sliders up under the truck and they lined up in a natural position.
Marked where they contact the frame, lowered them out from under, flapwheeled the frame clean of paint, and jacked them back up to the frame.
C-clamped them into exact position, checked that the doors opened with clearance off the pinchweld of ~3/4" for loadbearing/frameflex so you dont hear/feel vibrations.
Welded them on and painted the welds black.
HighLifted and the doors still open.
Only got the Driverside done this weekend. I am pretty happy with them and think they will serve my purpose perfectly. I will get the other side done over the weekend and throw up a couple pics of them in potential use hopefully. I will also be adding a mounting bracket to the rear of the sliders for the front camper tiedown mount to hook to.
I chose the BudBuilt sliders.
https://budbuilt.com/index.php?page...ategory_id=5&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=170
Some reasons i chose budbuilts:
I have had budbuilt skids and trans. crossmembers for my rockcrawler for years and they are a top-notch product and bud is a top-notch guy.
My 4000lb. crawler has had 2x0.12"wall DOM tubing and i have bent those a few times (albeit falling sideways off a waterfall and landing directly on them) so i knew i wanted a thicker wall tubing for a larger truck.
These are able to support jacking both wheels off the ground (supporting the weight of truck w/o bowing) and the doors still open.
I wanted lower-profile sliders on this truck as it is not a rock-truck. I have a camper that must off-load using jacks that are close to the truck. My tires wont be sticking out too much further than the wheelwells so no slider kickouts are needed if pivoting around a boulder. Still will block shopping carts, doors, and sliding on ice tourist bumpers.
Follows the body lines best and looks natural and unobtrusive under the rocker.
Makes a very nice step.
I opted for the 0.187 walled Beefy InsideOut Sliders for my Crewmax.
Bud offers a 0.12wall slider as well.
The powdercoating seems to be good quality and better than some companies i have had powdercoatings added
5 support legs with heavy L bracing to mount on the frame.
BTW- The frame on the crewmax and doublecab is the same, but the rearmost slider mount lines up differently due to the cab/bed mount differences between frames.
Simply jacked the sliders up under the truck and they lined up in a natural position.
Marked where they contact the frame, lowered them out from under, flapwheeled the frame clean of paint, and jacked them back up to the frame.
C-clamped them into exact position, checked that the doors opened with clearance off the pinchweld of ~3/4" for loadbearing/frameflex so you dont hear/feel vibrations.
Welded them on and painted the welds black.
HighLifted and the doors still open.
Only got the Driverside done this weekend. I am pretty happy with them and think they will serve my purpose perfectly. I will get the other side done over the weekend and throw up a couple pics of them in potential use hopefully. I will also be adding a mounting bracket to the rear of the sliders for the front camper tiedown mount to hook to.
zidaro
Explorer
Spent some time cruzing along the N. Rim of Grand Canyon in July, 300 miles of mostly mellow off-road fun
my runner under the knife:
on its new set of 4" wheels
IFS b-gone
the helper
the rear still on stands, unweighted. needs a fender trim still. AP long travel springs pushed back 4", fox airbumps and 12"RR, detroit 5.29, eldorado Discs, 37" Pitbulls, frenched and uniball'd hangers
front plated and ready for the 3 link and Diamond
Oct 5, 2011 Game changer
winter has arrived
my runner under the knife:
on its new set of 4" wheels
IFS b-gone
the helper
the rear still on stands, unweighted. needs a fender trim still. AP long travel springs pushed back 4", fox airbumps and 12"RR, detroit 5.29, eldorado Discs, 37" Pitbulls, frenched and uniball'd hangers
front plated and ready for the 3 link and Diamond
Oct 5, 2011 Game changer
winter has arrived
Last edited:
austintaco
Explorer
The 4runner is going to be a Beast! I like the idea of relocating the axle back and doing some cutting.
zidaro
Explorer
a little update and some answers to the question above. None too exciting of trip updates, been visiting family/friends this season alot. Skiing has been great but minimal pow or backcountry this year in the Sierras, but a TON of amazing experiences skating lake ice high in the Sierras.
Tenaya Lake, Yosemite Jan 2012. Last time pass was open in Jan was 68years ago. We spent as much time up in Toulomne as we could this Winter.
This one has been done awhile now- It is the frame reinforcements from Expedition 1 to better brace the front bumper for winching and to decrease vibrations. MANDATORY for winching! I was not running these the first year and the front frame horns (where the bumper attaches to the frame) started breaking along the welds and pulling the mounting plate away from the frame rails. This was with, what i would consider, mild to moderate winching. I have rewelded the frame-horn bumper plates stronger than oem and added the Exp.1 brackets and can say that it is now strong enough to safely winch off.
brackets are bolted thru framerails and have 2 added bolt studs at top front of horn to bolt thru bumper bracket. Cant find the pic of the bracket itself??
Now to the ICONS with the added weight of bumper/winch-
ICON 2.5 coilovers have a spring rate of 605#. Springs are a standard 16"L x 3"ID.
Without getting technical. I had the front lifted about 2" and felt the springs were preloaded as much as was safely possible. The bumper felt heavy on the front. The ICON's were smooth enough, but felt i had to compress the spring too much to get any lift out of them, and overcompressing to lift more would be a harsher ride and possibly pinch the spring on full compression- bad.
Solution-
Swapped out for 16" 700# Eibach Springs. Set the preload to give me an additional 1" lift, the springs are 1/8" less compressed on each side as before even with the additional lift.
Ride is GREAT! it feels smoother at speed, less harsh over bumps. I had been putting this one off but feeling it was necessary, Im stoked i finally did it.
Tenaya Lake, Yosemite Jan 2012. Last time pass was open in Jan was 68years ago. We spent as much time up in Toulomne as we could this Winter.
This one has been done awhile now- It is the frame reinforcements from Expedition 1 to better brace the front bumper for winching and to decrease vibrations. MANDATORY for winching! I was not running these the first year and the front frame horns (where the bumper attaches to the frame) started breaking along the welds and pulling the mounting plate away from the frame rails. This was with, what i would consider, mild to moderate winching. I have rewelded the frame-horn bumper plates stronger than oem and added the Exp.1 brackets and can say that it is now strong enough to safely winch off.
brackets are bolted thru framerails and have 2 added bolt studs at top front of horn to bolt thru bumper bracket. Cant find the pic of the bracket itself??
Now to the ICONS with the added weight of bumper/winch-
ICON 2.5 coilovers have a spring rate of 605#. Springs are a standard 16"L x 3"ID.
Without getting technical. I had the front lifted about 2" and felt the springs were preloaded as much as was safely possible. The bumper felt heavy on the front. The ICON's were smooth enough, but felt i had to compress the spring too much to get any lift out of them, and overcompressing to lift more would be a harsher ride and possibly pinch the spring on full compression- bad.
Solution-
Swapped out for 16" 700# Eibach Springs. Set the preload to give me an additional 1" lift, the springs are 1/8" less compressed on each side as before even with the additional lift.
Ride is GREAT! it feels smoother at speed, less harsh over bumps. I had been putting this one off but feeling it was necessary, Im stoked i finally did it.
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
Glad you have been able to spend time up there... first time in 68 years is a big deal!
I've been wanting to see some pictures of this, thanks for posting! Which is the new piece form Expedition One, the outermost bracket that goes fore & aft?
The low spring rate was a deal breaker breaker for me, and one of the reasons I didn't chose a performance coil-over instead of OME for my Tundra. I have a tall, 700# spring (adjustable coil-over) on the front of my heavily-loaded 4Runner which works perfectly, probably the same as on the Tundra, good choice.
zidaro
Explorer
Let it be said, i was not oven a thought in my Dads head 68yrs ago
the Exp1 plate is a cap over the top of framerail, has the two larger grade8 bolts thru it and the framerail. You can see the top of the brace running forward on top of the framerail, it then has two studs on top of the frame at the horn that attaches to the bumper mount. It just ties the bumper mount down the framerails a bit to distribute the cam force placed on the bumper and framehorns when winching off it. Also holds the bumper much more solid on the truck with no "vibrations" if you pound on the hoop (this translates into lighting vibrations when on washboard)- no more.
Seems to work fine, if i have any more issues when "really" using the winch, i will have to plate the frame in. Hope that is not in my future, shame on Toyota if it is.
Moody
Needs to get out more
I don't know how I missed this thread. I have a double cab I am building, but I am taking this one slow and simple (unlike how I have built other trucks).
I'll be interested to see some long term reports on your truck. I'm still debating on what lift to put on there, and have only settled on a Leer 180 shell at this point.
Thanks for your effort.
I'll be interested to see some long term reports on your truck. I'm still debating on what lift to put on there, and have only settled on a Leer 180 shell at this point.
Thanks for your effort.
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
Let it be said, i was not oven a thought in my Dads head 68yrs ago
the Exp1 plate is a cap over the top of framerail, has the two larger grade8 bolts thru it and the framerail. You can see the top of the brace running forward on top of the framerail, it then has two studs on top of the frame at the horn that attaches to the bumper mount. It just ties the bumper mount down the framerails a bit to distribute the cam force placed on the bumper and framehorns when winching off it. Also holds the bumper much more solid on the truck with no "vibrations" if you pound on the hoop (this translates into lighting vibrations when on washboard)- no more.
Seems to work fine, if i have any more issues when "really" using the winch, i will have to plate the frame in. Hope that is not in my future, shame on Toyota if it is.
Your added description makes it much clearer.
In the picture above the front of the truck/bumper is to the right, correct?
Do you need to drill holes for those two bolts running through the frame, or are there existing holes?
zidaro
Explorer
Passenger side, bumper is on right.
Poor memory, but i believe i had to drill the front hole. Easy beans and much more secure than without the brace.
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
Thanks for the clarification.