UnfrozenCaveman
Explorer
Alaska Mike said:... and they don't leak.
Heck, how do you know if there's any lube in it then?
Alaska Mike said:... and they don't leak.
Alaska Mike said:Just kidding. I would probably have kept my whole drivetrain in a slightly modified (non-leaking) stock configuration if it wasn't in such questionable condition to start out with. Much easier to seek technical assistance when your components are original to one specific vehicle. Mine will have International (Dana), GM, Jeep, and Land Rover components, mated together with commercially-available adapters. The guys at Novak kinda pause when I say they're going into a Series Rover- they just don't have the experience with Rovers. The guys at most of the Rover vendors sputter a bit when I say that I am deviating from a stock configuration. When it's all together, I will probably be held at arms length by both groups. Maybe the Nissan Patrol guys will let me hang with them...
Mercedesrover said:It's weeks like this that I remember why I discourage people from doing engine conversions!
DCH109 said:Hey we can start our own clubMine will be a mix of Chevy and Land Cruiser parts. Most people i mention that to tell me i am crazy or that i am ruining a classic Land Rover. I just tell them i am upgrading a poor drivetrain. At least i am keeping the frame, interior and body all Land Rover.
Jim, you Rover is coming along nicely, wish i had the shop you have available, would save me some headaches. I am stuck building mine in a 2 car garage. Thats hard when you have 2 frames and not a lot of room.
Keep the pictures coming and keep up the great work.
I ment to ask you as well, why did you choose the the sand color again? trying to make a big brother to the 88?
Oh and i might end up removing the cross member the the original bellhousing sits on and customizing a new one as i think it will interfere with the the front driveshafts, but we will see this weekend.
Michael Slade said:The problem is once they're done right, it looks all so easy. Arriving at a simple elegance is neither simple nor elegant.
I sense a new sub-forum coming...
Mercedesrover said:And no, there's no elegance in it. You of all people understand, Mike.
Just reading this thread stem to stern & spotted this. IME if POR is peeling it's because you didn't use their prep chemicals. MISF has tried the normal paint & body shop prep chems and they don't work as well for POR.Maine 110 said:Thanks Jim. I can get SEM through my local auto paint shop. I never liked POR myself, It always seemed to get a chip which would rust then the whole thing would peel off like bad powdercoat.
I suspected as much. My friend Rick made me use something like that when we did the body & paint on my '67 Ranchero.Mercedesrover said:snip......
P.S. That gunk you see dripping out of the bulkhead is the two quarts of rustproofing I poured into it, not rust drooling down!
ntsqd said:Just reading this thread stem to stern & spotted this. IME if POR is peeling it's because you didn't use their prep chemicals. MISF has tried the normal paint & body shop prep chems and they don't work as well for POR.
[hijack]Sand blasted metal by chance? I had peeling once with that. On a later project I let it develop some surface rust, prep by their 'book', & cured in a slightly moist environ. Lasted until the UV killed it (bumper). I suspect that if I'd top coated it that it would still be there. The Rustoleum I tried in it's place didn't last even a year before bubbling.Maine 110 said:I did it by the book from POR, it held up well for about a year or so then the chips turned into peeling sheets. I probably should have been better about touching it up or putting a sacrificial coating like Waxoyl hardwax over it.