109 Expedition rig build

Mercedesrover

Explorer
The only thing that leaks on my 88" is the Roverdrive and the Superwinch hubs. Gearbox, t-case diffs and engine are all tight.

No big trick to sealing these gearboxes. The shifter seals are the biggest thing. Use cut pieces of heater hose over the shafts. My aluminum t-case pan fixes the biggest leak on that.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Just kidding. I would probably have kept my whole drivetrain in a slightly modified (non-leaking) stock configuration if it wasn't in such questionable condition to start out with. Much easier to seek technical assistance when your components are original to one specific vehicle. Mine will have International (Dana), GM, Jeep, and Land Rover components, mated together with commercially-available adapters. The guys at Novak kinda pause when I say they're going into a Series Rover- they just don't have the experience with Rovers. The guys at most of the Rover vendors sputter a bit when I say that I am deviating from a stock configuration. When it's all together, I will probably be held at arms length by both groups. Maybe the Nissan Patrol guys will let me hang with them...
 

Mercedesrover

Explorer
It's funny...You call most of the usual suspects when it comes to buying Series parts, and I'm familiar with most of them, and you ask those guys what they drive. "Ah, a Toyota p/up, a Subaru wagon, Honda Civic...". If you're lucky you'll find a guy that leases a DII. Pretty poor. Most only know Series truck from what they see in the catalog.

When I tell them what I'm building all I get is silence. I know what you're dealing with, Mike. Most people don't know what a Series Rover is!

Anyway, a long week in the conversion world. It's weeks like this that I remember why I discourage people from doing engine conversions! :) Ah well, all in good fun!!

jim
 

DCH109

Adventurer
Alaska Mike said:
Just kidding. I would probably have kept my whole drivetrain in a slightly modified (non-leaking) stock configuration if it wasn't in such questionable condition to start out with. Much easier to seek technical assistance when your components are original to one specific vehicle. Mine will have International (Dana), GM, Jeep, and Land Rover components, mated together with commercially-available adapters. The guys at Novak kinda pause when I say they're going into a Series Rover- they just don't have the experience with Rovers. The guys at most of the Rover vendors sputter a bit when I say that I am deviating from a stock configuration. When it's all together, I will probably be held at arms length by both groups. Maybe the Nissan Patrol guys will let me hang with them...


Hey we can start our own club :) Mine will be a mix of Chevy and Land Cruiser parts. Most people i mention that to tell me i am crazy or that i am ruining a classic Land Rover. I just tell them i am upgrading a poor drivetrain. At least i am keeping the frame, interior and body all Land Rover.

Jim, you Rover is coming along nicely, wish i had the shop you have available, would save me some headaches. I am stuck building mine in a 2 car garage. Thats hard when you have 2 frames and not a lot of room.
Keep the pictures coming and keep up the great work.
I ment to ask you as well, why did you choose the the sand color again? trying to make a big brother to the 88?

Oh and i might end up removing the cross member the the original bellhousing sits on and customizing a new one as i think it will interfere with the the front driveshafts, but we will see this weekend.
 

Michael Slade

Untitled
Mercedesrover said:
It's weeks like this that I remember why I discourage people from doing engine conversions!

The problem is once they're done right, it looks all so easy. Arriving at a simple elegance is neither simple nor elegant.

I sense a new sub-forum coming...
 

Mercedesrover

Explorer
DCH109 said:
Hey we can start our own club :) Mine will be a mix of Chevy and Land Cruiser parts. Most people i mention that to tell me i am crazy or that i am ruining a classic Land Rover. I just tell them i am upgrading a poor drivetrain. At least i am keeping the frame, interior and body all Land Rover.

Jim, you Rover is coming along nicely, wish i had the shop you have available, would save me some headaches. I am stuck building mine in a 2 car garage. Thats hard when you have 2 frames and not a lot of room.
Keep the pictures coming and keep up the great work.
I ment to ask you as well, why did you choose the the sand color again? trying to make a big brother to the 88?

Oh and i might end up removing the cross member the the original bellhousing sits on and customizing a new one as i think it will interfere with the the front driveshafts, but we will see this weekend.


Yup, this truck will be the same color as the 88" and very similar in many ways. Over the years of driving that truck and changing things on it I'm pretty happy with how things work now. These engines and the diff conversion is pretty well proven...Might as well stick with a sure thing.

The Stage One frame doesn't have the big second crossmember but has a smaller bolt-in one in it's place. I added a second behind it to support the tranny and t-case.
 

Mercedesrover

Explorer
Michael Slade said:
The problem is once they're done right, it looks all so easy. Arriving at a simple elegance is neither simple nor elegant.

I sense a new sub-forum coming...

I saw this quote somewhere on this board I think:

Perfection is finally attained, not when there is no longer anything to add, but when there is no longer anything to take away. - Antoine De Saint-Exupery

Sums it up. I'm trying to make this truck just as simple as I can. Very few wires, very few "accessories", very little to go wrong. Form follows function and the less number of things that are hanging off/bolted on to the truck, the less things there are to go wrong.

And no, there's no elegance in it. You of all people understand, Mike. Your truck is a thing of beauty and I'm sure it didn't come easy. I work from 6:00am-7:00am every morning and then from 5:00pm-7:00pm every night on the truck. Then I come home and fiddle around with something in my basement shop at home. I eat dinner with dirty, knarely hands with my VERY understanding wife, then I lay away at night trying to find solutions to problems or thinking about what I need to do tomorrow. Elegant? Nope. Not even a little bit! :)
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Maine 110 said:
Thanks Jim. I can get SEM through my local auto paint shop. I never liked POR myself, It always seemed to get a chip which would rust then the whole thing would peel off like bad powdercoat.
Just reading this thread stem to stern & spotted this. IME if POR is peeling it's because you didn't use their prep chemicals. MISF has tried the normal paint & body shop prep chems and they don't work as well for POR.

Mercedesrover said:
snip......
P.S. That gunk you see dripping out of the bulkhead is the two quarts of rustproofing I poured into it, not rust drooling down!
I suspected as much. My friend Rick made me use something like that when we did the body & paint on my '67 Ranchero.

I always admire folks committed enough to tackle such large projects. I can barely get my much smaller stuff done.
Sub'd, interested to see how things progress.
 

Mercedesrover

Explorer
After about 50 phone calls trying to find the right pipe, two sets of pipe and elbows returned to McMaster Carr, driving the guys at Napa nuts and about four hours of work I'm almost done with the head pipe for the exhaust. It's 2.5" stainless and comes directly off the turbo. I still need to weld a couple of braces on it but for the most part it's done.

Back to it!

exhaust1.jpg
 

Mike S

Sponsor - AutoHomeUSA
I have been following this build...

Excuse me, but the truck you are building is insanely excellent in all respects. Congratulations on the vision, capability and determination to do it.

Mike S
 

Maine 110

New member
ntsqd said:
Just reading this thread stem to stern & spotted this. IME if POR is peeling it's because you didn't use their prep chemicals. MISF has tried the normal paint & body shop prep chems and they don't work as well for POR.

I did it by the book from POR, it held up well for about a year or so then the chips turned into peeling sheets. I probably should have been better about touching it up or putting a sacrificial coating like Waxoyl hardwax over it.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Maine 110 said:
I did it by the book from POR, it held up well for about a year or so then the chips turned into peeling sheets. I probably should have been better about touching it up or putting a sacrificial coating like Waxoyl hardwax over it.
[hijack]Sand blasted metal by chance? I had peeling once with that. On a later project I let it develop some surface rust, prep by their 'book', & cured in a slightly moist environ. Lasted until the UV killed it (bumper). I suspect that if I'd top coated it that it would still be there. The Rustoleum I tried in it's place didn't last even a year before bubbling.
POR is a "moisture curing polyurethane paint" according to a friend in the paint business. Needs humidity to cure correctly.[/hijack]
 

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