1949 International/Jeep Wrangler Rock Crawling & Overland Build

GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
I've been dabbling with building a floor for the truck for a LONG TIME like over 100 hours of staring /thinking and some doing. I just couldn't figure it out. It is holding me up from installing the seats and some other items. Dealing with the transfer case shifter cables going through the floor pan added to the complexity. I did not know what to do. Also, the requirement of it needing to be strong and removable made it even more challenging. I had a few attempts but those failed. BUT this day, it all came together.

Two taped together cardboard pieces
flat piece of sheet metal 16ga
2 hours in the bead roller - tipping die - to make the bend
Parts off of a broken ping pong table - for the heat shields
Flower Master Muffler cut up - for the hump
and about 36 self tapping screw (temporary) Will be replaced with welded nuts and bolts. Once the engine is out and I can easily get to them.

This is what I came up with...
Floor 1.JPG
Floor 2.JPG
Floor 3.JPG
I did warp the metal welding the STIGA Ping Pong Table brace to the bottom of the floor but it didn't affect it once it was screwed down.
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floor 4.JPG
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GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
Well... Today, Amazon failed me shipping me my fuel parts. So, I started working on my front bumper again. On the 4th of July Harbor Freight had a 10% sale on everything. So, I picked up a Apex winch. Winch before driving... I guess.

How it started, I wanted a bumper similar to my brother's Dodge B2B but smaller so it would fit my truck better. A bumper with a vintage vibe. I could find anything the right size and old school shape. While in the junkyard, I stumbled on two 70-80s Ice Cream Trucks. The bumpers had the profile I wanted but to long and not thick enough. I figured I could section it and then widen it to what I want. I bought both so I could make a matching rear bumper.

This is how It started.
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Cleaned Up
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Sectioned and now cutting so I can widen it.
Bumper 1.JPG
Bought a 6"x5' 3/16 thick piece of metal to widen it. This is how we made the curve. Some wooden blocks and body weight. Just tack welded it as we went.
Bumper 2.JPG
Size comparison
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A lot of welding later...
bumper 3.JPG
So I welded the Winch plate to the backside of the bumper.
We had another set of Mopar tow hooks sitting on a shelf. So, I threw them on.
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Sprayed some primer and some satin black and called it good enough.
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To get the front clip on, I had to cut more of the grill out. I first planned to remote mount the top portion of the winch but for simplicity reasons I left it. I think it came out pretty neat, pretty much what I had envisioned.
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I have an Expedition One Rubi skid mounted. I joined the two parts with 4 bolts. So this winch bumper should be super stout and should not go flying when I use it.
I plan on making a cover thing (goes from the bumper to the fenders) So it will have a cleaner appearance. I might get delete the "BADLAND" on the winch and that should be about it.

Hopefully tomorrow, I can mess with the fuel stuff.
 
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GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
Finally all my fuel stuff came in and I was able to do some work. I bought a Old Thyme gauge kit from from Auto Meter. The kit came with a new sending unit to match the fuel gauge, 0-90 Ohms. The JK factory fuel gauge I think is 90-220 Ohms. I could get a custom programmable fuel gauge (The 1950 B2B has one) but I don't think it is worth it.

The JKU fuel tank has this convenient flat spot to drill a hole to fit the sending unit.
Fuel 1.JPG
Auto Meter Sending unit installed. I change the bolts to longer stainless ones with nuts.
fuel 2.JPG
I also made a stainless steel support plate that goes inside the tank.
fuel 3.JPG
Doing some research and asking @justageek, I was able to figure out I had my fuel tank line all messed up.
Before
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After
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I bought a Evil Energy fuel 30 micron inline fuel filter. I made a mount for it then I welded on the bottom of the Cab. I added a bulkhead fitting (6-an to 5/16 Barb) for the fuel tank vent to the floor of the cab. I added a NPT bung to the factory fuel filler neck so the tank would vent out of the filler neck and not into the cab.

What I used to make the fuel filter mount
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Fuel 4.JPG
Fuel concoction
2 Gallons of 2 year old fuel (from another project)
Xylene
Fuel Stabilizer
3 Gallons of fresh overprice California gasoline

Before when I put fuel in the truck it was bubbling out due to the vent problem BUT NOW it worked like it should.?
 
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GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
I fabricated my floor pan to fit around my transfer case shifter cables. I was also able to weld in the seat mount and install the 2005 Volkswagen Golf seats.

 

GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
Soooo... I just gave myself a deadline of September 23. I volunteered help at Overland Expo West and I want to drive this truck there. A little bit over 30 days to get this truck roadworthy.

-Check List-
Finish wiring - Headlights - Taillights - Turn Signals
Seal the front diff
Get the truck some Insurance
Wait at the DMV for HOURSSSSS & Register the truck
Install new to me (A.K.A. used) rims & 35 inch tires
Install Teraflex 6in front springs. Front suspension is sitting on bump stops... V8 and Winch bumper is HEAVY
Install and wire up the other gauges
Install Metal Cloak Skid plates
Install rear window maybe side windows
install driver side mirror
Install Oil Cooler
Install Transmission Cooler
Adjust transfer case shifters so it shifts into 4 low
Wheel Alignment
Buy camping gear
Drive to Overland Expo West
Have fun and meet new people

It is crunch time.

Well, I need a way to shift the transmission. The aftermarket world sucks in this department. They are all super modern looking and way to expensive like $400 and up.

Since I can't put the shifter back on the column and it can not go in the traditional floor location. I need an original solution to this problem. I noticed the OEM shifter linkage/cable was SUPER long. I have a decent amount of space behind the seats. Why not put the shifter behind the seat never seen it done before but in theory it should work. So I went to the junkyard and only one truck matched my donor truck steering column. I think I paid like $40, %10 of what a aftermarket one would cost. Not to bad so far. I took it home and started stripping it down. Since I took apart one already, I knew what I needed to do and it went fast.

How it started
Shifter 1.JPG
Drilled a hole for the shift cable
Shifter 2.JPG
Test fit, would not shift with both seats in so....
Shifter 3.JPG
Made this shifter handle. Checks all the right boxes except for aesthetics.?
Shifter 4.JPG
All in all, it shifts like it should. It is really awkward to shift it. Since you have to reach behind you. I plan to make some sort of cover for it to keep things off of it and to cover up the ugly.
 

GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
To help make it to Overland Expo, I towed the truck to Vegas. So now, I can work on it a little bit more. Working in a garage should be nice.

Things at add to the list
Steering Stabilizer
Wire Front & Rear Lockers

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New home
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GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
I tried to register the truck today at the DMV. I got there at 5:20am, it opens at 8. Because I am a walk in... (Slight rant) I get to my window # I'm told to go and the lady is already in a bad mood. She said the paper work I got with the truck is not going to work. I ask how do I make it work " you need to contact the guy you bought it from blah blah blah. I bought it in August 2018, I don't have his information anymore. Nevertheless the lady was extremely unhelpful. (Rant over) I was able to order a new driver license since I lost it hiking. After I left this lady, I talked to 2 others so I'll be headed in the right direction. They both were helpful and now I have to get a bonded title for the truck... The odds are I will not be able to drive this to the Overland Expo:cry:

But I still took care of some things

Tachometer came in so I got that installed with Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Volts, and Fuel Level.
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Got the read window put in. Had to use some rope and help from my buddy.
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Was messing with the doors too. Both of the doors would stay shut from friction but now both shut the right way.
Top- new to me door latch $100 off Ebay
Bottom- door latch came with the truck.
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I also bought a new to me passenger window regulator and installed it. No pictures though.
Bought auto insurance for the truck too $275 per year.


-Check List-
Finish wiring - Headlights - Taillights - Turn Signals
Seal the front diff
Get the truck some Insurance
Wait at the DMV for HOURSSSSS & Register the truck - FAIL
Install new to me (A.K.A. used) rims & 35 inch tires
Install Teraflex 6in front springs. Front suspension is sitting on bump stops... V8 and Winch bumper is HEAVY
Install and wire up the other gauges
Install Metal Cloak Skid plates
Install rear window maybe side windows
install driver side mirror
Install Oil Cooler
Install Transmission Cooler
Adjust transfer case shifters so it shifts into 4 low
Wheel Alignment
Steering Stabilizer
Wire Front & Rear Lockers
Buy camping gear
Drive to Overland Expo West
Have fun and meet new people
 

GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
My locker was stuck on so I took out the senor and cut it ?

Seal front diff - Done

-Check List-
Finish wiring - Headlights - Taillights - Turn Signals
Seal the front diff
Wait at the DMV for HOURSSSSS & Register the truck - FAIL
Install new to me (A.K.A. used) rims & 35 inch tires
Install Teraflex 6in front springs. Front suspension is sitting on bump stops... V8 and Winch bumper is HEAVY
Install Metal Cloak Skid plates
Install rear window maybe side windows
install driver side mirror
Install Oil Cooler
Install Transmission Cooler
Adjust transfer case shifters so it shifts into 4 low
Wheel Alignment
Steering Stabilizer
Wire Front & Rear Lockers
Buy camping gear
Drive to Overland Expo West
Have fun and meet new people
 

GoldiesGarage

Well-known member
I've been dabbling with the wiring for a while now. I got the headlights to work with a universal GM headlight switch. Tail lights are working too. I have brake lights and running lights but what I do not have is turn signals... For some reason they are not working but the front turn on but don't flash. The rear doesn't do anything. I think my Brand new wiring harness is bad or I need LED flashers since all the lights are LED. In reality I don't really need turn signals. I could just put my arm out the window and throw up some "gang signs" so people know I'm turning...

I took the headlight buckets out so I can clean them. Once I was done with the wire brush, I sprayed some primer -->black paint --> clear coat.

I was missing one of the headlight adjuster screw thread part. On my other headlight bucket I had one with broken tabs, so I welded it in. I was not able to find another metal one. After buying a few different styles, this Dorman part # 42117 fit perfectly.
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1967 Chevy Step side tail lights
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-Check List-
Finish wiring - Headlights - Taillights - Turn Signals
Seal the front diff
Wait at the DMV for HOURSSSSS & Register the truck - FAIL
Install new to me (A.K.A. used) rims & 35 inch tires
Install Teraflex 6in front springs. Front suspension is sitting on bump stops... V8 and Winch bumper is HEAVY
Install Metal Cloak Skid plates
Install rear window maybe side windows
install driver side mirror
Install Oil Cooler
Install Transmission Cooler
Adjust transfer case shifters so it shifts into 4 low
Wheel Alignment
Steering Stabilizer
Wire Front & Rear Lockers
Buy camping gear
Drive to Overland Expo West
Have fun and meet new people
 
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