1991 Cummins Suburban

Spur

Adventurer
On a happier note, a lot of other work has been completed.


I think of the build in stages. Stage one was all the major mechanical and was completed in May 2010. Stage two was the last 6 months that included testing, upgrading, and additional modifications. I'm happy to report that Stage two was completed last week. I picked up the truck from Krawltex for the last time. We celebrated and had a few beers. From left to right: Rico, Ted, Me, Cam, and Chris. Thanks guys! I don't know what I'm going to do with myself now that I won't be visiting the shop twice a week :sombrero:


Burban001.jpg







I installed the roof rack. Still need to install the accessories (spare tire carrier, yakima crossbar adapter, hi-lift mount, and awnings). Most everything about the Garvin rack is great, except for the mounting tabs that slide into the track. They looked like they were rough cut on a plasma table and thrown into the box. Of the 16 tabs, 15 of them didn't fit and required a turn on the grinder. I wasn't expecting the install to be so involved. There must have been 500 pieces of hardware in the box. I estimate that it took me about 8 hours to assemble and install, but it looks good and I'm happy with it.

wampa011.jpg


wampa012.jpg




I completely restored the dash. It was UV damaged and cracked. I ordered a pad from LMC. The underside was covered in spray foam that was really UV damaged. I scraped and wire-wheeled it off to get down to the sheet metal frame. I then painted it with Rustoleum and covered it in sound deadener. The plastic tabs on the vents were broken off so I epoxied some small bolts to act as anchors. I replaced one of the broken vents and finally glued the new pad on with silicone adhesive. The replacement dash pads will never look as good as a brand new dash, but it's good enough.

WampaInterior001.jpg


WampaInterior002.jpg



wampa019.jpg


wampa016.jpg




Installed new Autofab hood pins. They didn't work so well. The posts weren't long enough and so I had to use the original posts that came from LMC. The holes for the pins were too small so the nice pins from Autofab won't fit. It can't be drilled out because the posts are too small. It would probably crack. So I have the nice white bases on the hood with the old crappy pins. I'm going to look for some nicer pins when I have time. I really want to be able to use the lanyards.

wampa004.jpg




New shock mount tabs to accommodate the added height of the National springs.

wampa001.jpg






New Injector Pump with 3200 gov spring and slightly more aggressive fuel pin from PDR. ( Ewww. Bad pic. I'll get a better one soon.)

wampa006.jpg




New HX35 Turbo

wampa007.jpg




New Bosch 190 injectors

wampa008.jpg




The engine upgrades have made a significant difference. It drives like a completely different truck. I'm really happy with the added power. I'd love to get it on a dyno sometime and see what it's putting out. There's no smoke in normal driving, but I can make it smoke if I really punch it. Exactly what I was hoping for. If I really want to, I can straight up roll coal if I put it into fourth gear at low speed and punch it. Nice to have a secret spy hunter weapon for the tailgaters :sombrero:
 
Last edited:

Spur

Adventurer
hey, quick question, how much space do you have from the rear doors to the back of the passenger seats, and then from the rear doors to the back of the drivers seat. i'm trying to decide if i'm going to go suburban or gut a m1008 with a cap. i found a v2500 4x4 but its literally on the other side of the country :( but i do like the idea of being able to hold more than 2 people

74" and 115" roughly.
 

coreys88burban

Adventurer
hey SPUR, i was just wondering if i take the "SUBURBAN" emblum on my right side rear door off, can i just remove it being an adheisive one or is it one with nuts holding it on and will leave holes? also what about the SILVERADO ones on the front fenders?
 

Spur

Adventurer
hey SPUR, i was just wondering if i take the "SUBURBAN" emblum on my right side rear door off, can i just remove it being an adheisive one or is it one with nuts holding it on and will leave holes? also what about the SILVERADO ones on the front fenders?

Sorry I never responded to this. I haven't been on the forum in a while.

You've probably already done this. It all comes off easily. There are a few screws in the molding but its mostly just glued on. I used my fingers and a gasket scraper, but I didn't care if it got scratched because it was all getting repainted. If i was being careful i would have used a plastic scraper of some sort to pry it off. It does leave a lot of sticky glue residue so be prepared to remove that with an adhesive remover if you're not going to repaint.
 

MrBeast

Explorer
Spur, I can't belive I missed your build.

It has turned out pretty damn nice!

The Vinyl floor thing doesnt suprise me though, that is what is happening with everything being made in China these days.

I am in the process of putting a Cummins in my 72, enjoyed reading your thread, gave me lots of motivation. - Nick
 

Spur

Adventurer
Thanks for the compliments MrBeast.

Guess I should give an update on things that have been done over the last few months.

Grid heater is now hooked up to a push button on the switch panel so I have manual control over how long I run it.

Blew up the 241 t-case but it did have over 200k miles on it. Replaced it with a new 241. Briefly thought about an atlas but my bank account said no. Even though it was a direct replacement, the case was slightly larger, so the crossmember had to be modified slightly.

New front drive shaft. The one in there was a chopped up job from a local driveshaft shop. Now I've got a proper, beefy driveshaft from Tom Woods. Got rid of an annoying knocking sound.


Issues that I need to take care of:

1. Upgrade to electric fans. At some point, probably when I was going through some rough country on my ranch, the frame must have flexed a little. Even though the front end is boxed and reinforced it still can flex a little. Since the fan is very close to the radiator, it brushed the back of the radiator. Slightly bent the fins in one area. Looks like a quarter arc. I can see the paint on the fan blades rubbed off a bit. The damage is very minor, not enough to warrant a radiator repair, but still disconcerting. Dont want that to happen again. So I'm going to upgrade to dual flex-lite fans and put each on a a separate thermostat so that the first one kicks on at a certain temp and they both kick on at a higher temp.

2. Batteries. I posted on this problem in another thread. 1st gen cummins only came with one battery, a big one. I wanted to go with die hard platinum and the only one that was big enough was the group 31 marine 1150 CCA. It has not worked well. I'm already on my third one. Ive since learned (from this forum) that if you use a deep-cycle battery as a starting battery, it needs to be 30% larger. I think the fact that it is undersized has contributed to pre-mature failure and certainly hard cold starting. So I'm either going to go to a single cheaper 1100 CCA battery (from O'Reilly or similar) or I'm going to run a couple smaller batteries in parallel. The last battery failure was really bad. It leaked and corroded my nice new custom battery tray. Grrr.

Haven't been able to do anything to the interior this winter because I don't have anywhere to work on it. This is what it looks like if I don't drive it for a couple days. Lol.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1301450135.171112.jpg
 

MrBeast

Explorer
I have heard that yall up north are getting blasted this winter.

I havent seen snow in 4 years now, I miss it.

I always run dual batteries on my trucks. I prefer Optima Yellow tops. I am a bit mad at them though for ceasing production in the states and sending them to mexico.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
That is interesting on the battery. The die hard platinum batteries are basically re-badged Odyssey batteries. I didn't think they made a deep-cycle battery? They have good deep cycle recovery, but the CCA rating should stay the same.

Could the alternator be overcharging the battery?

I have a junky group 31 in my Dodge, it gets ABUSED and I haven't had any issues.

I was going to purchase the big Platinum battery....thats why I wonder.
 

Spur

Adventurer
That is interesting on the battery. The die hard platinum batteries are basically re-badged Odyssey batteries. I didn't think they made a deep-cycle battery? They have good deep cycle recovery, but the CCA rating should stay the same.

Could the alternator be overcharging the battery?

I have a junky group 31 in my Dodge, it gets ABUSED and I haven't had any issues.

I was going to purchase the big Platinum battery....thats why I wonder.

There are two kinds: Die Hard Platinum and Die Hard Platinum Marine. I have the marine which is a deep cycle. They don't make a big cca battery in the regular platinum line. Sears has been good about honoring the warranty and I'm getting a new one tomorrow. They didn't have one in stock so they volunteered to personally drive 250 miles round trip to get me one from another store. That's awesome customer service. Really makes me want to stay with Die Hard. I'm thinking about running two P4s in parallel but it would be tricky to make them fit. Plus it would be $450!!!! Ouch! I'm going to use the new marine battery for the 'house' battery behind my National Luna isolator, which is what its really designed for anyway.

Your point about overcharging is a valid one and something I was thinking about today. Whatever I decide to do about the batteries I'm going to get somebody to go through the electrical system and make sure everything is working the way it should.
 

Spur

Adventurer
I have heard that yall up north are getting blasted this winter.

I havent seen snow in 4 years now, I miss it.

I always run dual batteries on my trucks. I prefer Optima Yellow tops. I am a bit mad at them though for ceasing production in the states and sending them to mexico.

I'm leery of the optimas these days. If I wanted one, I think I'd just get an AC Delco since they are cheaper and made by the same company.

But yes, I'd much rather have duals in parallel. I think it would help a lot in the middle of winter.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
With as crappy, old, and abused as my battery is I have a hard time thinking one of the nice big sears batteries wouldn't work just fine?

I did some digging on the Odyssey site. They list a group 31 battery and a 31-M battery, the later being a 'marine' battery. The specs are identical as far as I can tell between the two, the only real difference being the post configuration.

I would dig into the charging system. I would bet a frosty beverage there is something else going on. Just sticking a hand held volt meter on it would be good. Maybe go for a drive with some probed hooked up. The voltage might be spiking causing the battery problems. You mentioned that last battery leaked. This might be a sign over overcharging ( basically boiling the 'fluid' ) the battery. The sears batteries are 'gel' batteries so they don't boil the same way, but I think the principle would be the same.

What part of Colorado are you in? If your ever close to Durango let drop me a PM.....
 

MrBeast

Explorer
I think there may be something to that, you do have a modified alternator, id check it out, because you can not be certian it is opperating properly.
 

Spur

Adventurer
Yeah. Since I have that massive Kenworth 200 amp alternator, I imagine if the regulator isn't working properly it could fry things pretty quick. On the upside I won't have any trouble charging up multiple batteries!

Funny you mentioned that. I was just thinking last week that we are pretty close and we should meet up when the chance presents itself. I'm in Crested Butte. If you're ever passing through Gunnison, definitely give me a shout.
 

jdinevens

Adventurer
Thanks for the compliments MrBeast.

Guess I should give an update on things that have been done over the last few months.

Grid heater is now hooked up to a push button on the switch panel so I have manual control over how long I run it.

Blew up the 241 t-case but it did have over 200k miles on it. Replaced it with a new 241. Briefly thought about an atlas but my bank account said no. Even though it was a direct replacement, the case was slightly larger, so the crossmember had to be modified slightly.

New front drive shaft. The one in there was a chopped up job from a local driveshaft shop. Now I've got a proper, beefy driveshaft from Tom Woods. Got rid of an annoying knocking sound.


Issues that I need to take care of:

1. Upgrade to electric fans. At some point, probably when I was going through some rough country on my ranch, the frame must have flexed a little. Even though the front end is boxed and reinforced it still can flex a little. Since the fan is very close to the radiator, it brushed the back of the radiator. Slightly bent the fins in one area. Looks like a quarter arc. I can see the paint on the fan blades rubbed off a bit. The damage is very minor, not enough to warrant a radiator repair, but still disconcerting. Dont want that to happen again. So I'm going to upgrade to dual flex-lite fans and put each on a a separate thermostat so that the first one kicks on at a certain temp and they both kick on at a higher temp.

2. Batteries. I posted on this problem in another thread. 1st gen cummins only came with one battery, a big one. I wanted to go with die hard platinum and the only one that was big enough was the group 31 marine 1150 CCA. It has not worked well. I'm already on my third one. Ive since learned (from this forum) that if you use a deep-cycle battery as a starting battery, it needs to be 30% larger. I think the fact that it is undersized has contributed to pre-mature failure and certainly hard cold starting. So I'm either going to go to a single cheaper 1100 CCA battery (from O'Reilly or similar) or I'm going to run a couple smaller batteries in parallel. The last battery failure was really bad. It leaked and corroded my nice new custom battery tray. Grrr.

Haven't been able to do anything to the interior this winter because I don't have anywhere to work on it. This is what it looks like if I don't drive it for a couple days. Lol.

View attachment 55283


did you ever check into an np205? i understand they are a bit bigger/heavier, and have a slightly worse low range than the 241 but they are:
bulletproof
could also twin stick them if thats your fancy :coffeedrink:
should be able to pick one up for a pretty reasonable price thats able to mount behind a nv4500
 

Spur

Adventurer
did you ever check into an np205? i understand they are a bit bigger/heavier, and have a slightly worse low range than the 241 but they are:
bulletproof
could also twin stick them if thats your fancy :coffeedrink:
should be able to pick one up for a pretty reasonable price thats able to mount behind a nv4500


It was something I definitely considered but there was no way it would fit with the 4 inch exhaust. Would have had to totally reroute the exhaust and there really isn't anywhere for it to go. I like the idea of a gear driven transfer case for the added beef, but there are plenty of cummins with 241s behind them.

There is a 241HD that was made specifically for Dodge Cummins, but unfortunately it isn't compatible (passenger vs. driver side drop).


I suppose I should tell the embarrassing story of how I blew it up so that others will not repeat my stupid mistake.

I was working on the interior and had the t-case boot off. It's a very tight fit between the center console and the manual tranny boot. To get the t-case shifter boot back on I had to twist and contort it. There is a plastic bar that the stick has to go through that slides back and forth, indicating what position the t-case is in. When I put the boot back on, I missed that hole and didn't notice it because I was too busy twisting and contorting it. The indicator read 2 wheel high but it was actually in between 2 wheel high and 4 wheel high. The plastic bar was in front of the shifter, preventing it from being all the way forward.

I drove it for about 100 yards and immediately knew something was wrong. I stopped and figured out what I had done, but it was too late. Drained the t-case and big chunks of metal came pouring out.

Very expensive, very stupid mistake. But the t-case had over 200k miles. It was one of the only original parts left. So I didn't cry too much. I'm super OCD about it now. I check the transfer case before I drive it everytime. lol
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,682
Messages
2,888,881
Members
226,872
Latest member
Supreet.dhaliwal
Top