You have done an outstanding job and provided great information. I have a few of questions if you wouldn't mind taking the time to answer.
1. Regarding the water injection for cooling the exhaust gases. I can understand the theory but I have never seen this and was wondering if you could explain in a little more detail. I always thought the inner cooler was designed for this. Is it possible to increase the size of the inner cooler and exclude the water injection?
2. Did you ever get the water injection systems calibrated correctly, if so, what were the results?
3. I did not see a cooling fan in the pictures. Just curious if you are using any and if so did you mount the fan to the water pump or use an electrical unit?
4. Could you show some pictures and a possible explanation of how you connected the wiring harness with this motor?
5. What would you have done differently(added or changed) if you were going to do this again?
I have had the V2203 for a couple of years and planned to do this swap, just didn't know where to start. With the information you have provided thus far, I will be starting next week. Thank you for all the valuable information to date.
Thank you! I'll try to answer your questions as well as I can.
1. Water injection is supposed to have a cooling effect on the air charge, but I have an intake temp sensor installed, and it has never registered a change when the injection is running. The majority of the cooling is done in the cylinders, and the 'steam engine' effect is supposed to increase torque. The methanol portion adds power, because it's a fuel, and helps offset minor quenching caused by the water. Burning methanol also creates heat, and the higher percentage of methanol in the mix, the less cooling you will see. I would still do an intercooler.
2. I think I have the water/methanol injection calibrated now. I have it set to come on at about 8PSI of boost, and am running a 180cc/m injector, which is the smallest available from the manufacturer of my kit. I had it set to a lower boost level, but I didn't like it running as often as it was, and I encountered some situations where the boost would still be high enough to keep the system engaged, while I was backing out of the throttle, and it would quench the combustion. I purchased a throttle switch to only allow it to come on at larger throttle openings, but I haven't installed it yet. The injection helps tremendously in situations like pulling highway passes, where the Jeeps aerodynamic deficiency is compounded with large hills. The diesel does pretty well maintaining speed in most situations, but the injection helps the extra 'boost' to be able to pass on the highway.
3. I had an electric cooling fan from a Saturn car, but I removed it when I installed my new crankshaft pulleys, and I kept it off, because I liked having the extra room to work. The only cooling problem I've had so far is keeping it warm enough. My stock radiator is WAY more than the Kubota needs. There is a mechanical fan used with this engine on some applications, but the water pump pulley is too high for that to work with my setup. It won't need a lot, so I'm just going to pick up a slim NAPA electric fan before winter is over.
4. I don't know if pictures of the harness would really help much. These guys have a good diagram, which I used as a guide with a few differences.
http://www.jdjeeps.com/ You basically unplug all of the unnecessary items (injectors, emissions can, etc), and reuse the items that are required. I'm using the factory Jeep temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, and crankshaft position sensor. The Jeep PCM gets the tachometer signal from the crankshaft position sensor, but won't turn on the tach unless it sees a signal from the CAMSHAFT position sensor at startup. JD Jeeps makes relatively expensive signal wheels and brackets for both sensors. I went a different route, since I was reusing the Jeep transmission and flywheel. My crank sensor is in the factory location, and because the PCM only cares that it sees a signal from the cam sensor, but doesn't actually need to verify that the signal is accurate, I went ahead and wired in a relay that connects the cam sensor signal wire to the signal wire of the crank sensor while the starter is engaged. It works great, and saved me a lot of money!
5. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had just done everything the way I had wanted originally the first time. The brakes are one example. I knew that I eventually wanted to convert from the factory vacuum booster to a hydroboost unit, but I didn't budget the time or money for the conversion. I thought it would be a simple matter to run a vacuum pump to power the brakes. I did a ton of research, and found out that there is a VW electric pump that a lot of people are using. I purchased one of these pumps, and everything that I needed, then it ended up not being able to keep up! So then I decided that I wanted to go all mechanical, so I installed a belt driven vacuum pump from an '80s Ford diesel. It ran the brakes fine, but was very difficult to mount, and kept breaking brackets constantly because it's not a balanced pump! I've since learned that a lot of other people have the exact same issue with that setup. I finally bit the bullet and did the hydroboost conversion, and it works perfectly. There were a few other items along the way where I may not have had something on hand, or didn't have the money, so I did a 'temporary' setup, things with hoses, etc. EVERY single thing that I did temporarily failed or didn't work out. So it doesn't pay to do anything halfway, even if it's only temporary...
Suprised you haven't went postal yet.
Oh, that happened years ago... :sombrero:
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