Soobarubin
Observer
Well thank you
Will you pm me all the pictures you have of it?
I think I'm going to design mine like it...
-Jaren
Well thank you
Will you pm me all the pictures you have of it?
I think I'm going to design mine like it...
-Jaren
S
Scenic WonderRunner
Guest
I found this today.
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/1st-gen-4runner-roof-rack-idea-install-197292/
Not sure if I would want to drill holes in my top. But there is the idea.
.
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/1st-gen-4runner-roof-rack-idea-install-197292/
Not sure if I would want to drill holes in my top. But there is the idea.
.
john101477
Photographer in the Wild
I already put holes in my top to support the hi lift lol.
Not sure how far i would trust it but it would be nice to see how well it held up.
Not sure how far i would trust it but it would be nice to see how well it held up.
Soobarubin
Observer
That was my point in making a rack mount to the side of the truck, I don't trust the fiberglass that much, plus you could still have a rack with no top.
-Jaren
-Jaren
john101477
Photographer in the Wild
The only problem i see with a side of body mounted rack is the possibility of sheer. Because the rack would not be sitting on something the possibility of the bolts doing significant damage to the body is fairly high. If you consider the build of a a lumber rack it is always designed to sit on something. it is risky to do any type of sheer mount without adequate backing. and even then the backing should be welded to something for support. I think there is a better way of doing this but just working out the details before I go to cutting and welding.
I have the Yakima rail system and love it. I have had canoes, bikes, and a packasport up there with no problems(not all at the same time). I was thinking of a RTT with the addition of a third cross bar but dont know if the roof would hold the weight. As far as drilling the holes it was easy and has not leaked a drop, just seal the holes with silicone. I figure if I destroy my top there are lots of used ones out there or I just go with a soft top.
The yakima rail is nice and sleek, i cant even see it most of the time, and when the uprights are off its like there is nothing there.(good for gas mileage on road trips) Detaching the landingpad? (i think that is what is is called) is a 30 second job and then just lift what ever is up there off(get a friend to help). As far as a rack I would highly recomend it, probably not safari grade but for anything I will be doing it is great.:smiley_drive:
The yakima rail is nice and sleek, i cant even see it most of the time, and when the uprights are off its like there is nothing there.(good for gas mileage on road trips) Detaching the landingpad? (i think that is what is is called) is a 30 second job and then just lift what ever is up there off(get a friend to help). As far as a rack I would highly recomend it, probably not safari grade but for anything I will be doing it is great.:smiley_drive:
Well thank you
Will you pm me all the pictures you have of it?
I think I'm going to design mine like it...
-Jaren
Hows about I post them here for everyone?
Still my favorite...
Soobarubin
Observer
I figured the sheet metal wouldn't hold much...
But with proper back bracing, I think it should hold quite a bit. You can see the pictures of the white one, and it looks like it is holding quite a bit.
Haven't posted my Runner yet...
Here she is in all her glory
223xxx on the clock, exterior is alright, interior is almost flawless, and it has a rebuilt performance RE in it.
I have a lot of plans for her.
EDIT:
Forgot to mention... Paid $500 for it...
ran and drove just as it does today, perfect.
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john101477
Photographer in the Wild
Nice runner.
S
Scenic WonderRunner
Guest
If the front and backing plate were bolted tightly, so that the plates supported the weight by friction on the body panel instead of the bolts, the rack should be able to hold weight without damage. In steel construction bolts rarely hold weight by resisting shear. Bolt holes are enlarged so that the bolts, which are efficient in tension simply jam the steel together.
I definitely dont want to start an argument here but bolts in steel design DO carry shear and are designed as such. It is true for construction the holes are enlarged but that is for erection (dont take this the wrong way) purposes. When designing a steel structure the bolts should not be the weakest point, i.e. you design for other failure mechanisms to fail before the bolts. The shear of the side panel would most likely be the weakest point, although the sheet is big so block shear rupture would not be likely, a bearing failure or tear out of the panel is likely. Elongation of the holes is likely if they are overloaded and not reinforced. A steel structure is designed so that the members ( beams or columns) yield before the bolts or the connection fail. A failure of a joint would be catastrophic, where yielding of the members can allow for structural stability if the design loads are exceeded.
Sorry for being so long winded but I would suggest that if bolting on to the body panels that they should be reinforced with a large plate on the inside to distribute the load to a large portion of the body or tied into a load bearing part of the frame. If those 3"X3" plates were just bolted to the body, a significant load would cause them to fail.
Sorry for being so long winded but I would suggest that if bolting on to the body panels that they should be reinforced with a large plate on the inside to distribute the load to a large portion of the body or tied into a load bearing part of the frame. If those 3"X3" plates were just bolted to the body, a significant load would cause them to fail.
Yeah no argument just wanted to make sure the bearing would not be the bolts but something else... I think that you would want to WELD a large plate on the inside at the least. That would distribute the load to a larger section of the body.
I was very interested in that design as well. My thoughts were to use the bed side rails just like a PU and have that be the bearing point, similar to a lumber rack. It has been pointed out that this would raise the 4Runner shell and so it would not align with the cab, but I would plan on notching the bed rails and welding in a plate that is flush to the current mounting surface and sticks out to attach the rack to. I think that you could make an effective, possibly detachable, rack for the 4runner with plenty of strength.
Just to keep this thread on track here is a pic of my 85 4runner, with a friend.
I was very interested in that design as well. My thoughts were to use the bed side rails just like a PU and have that be the bearing point, similar to a lumber rack. It has been pointed out that this would raise the 4Runner shell and so it would not align with the cab, but I would plan on notching the bed rails and welding in a plate that is flush to the current mounting surface and sticks out to attach the rack to. I think that you could make an effective, possibly detachable, rack for the 4runner with plenty of strength.
Just to keep this thread on track here is a pic of my 85 4runner, with a friend.
