MODIFICATION: Bilstein 5125 Rear Shocks
GOAL:
Verify shock dimensions before getting spendy with custom rear shocks for the Sequoia.
PURPOSE:
This is research and development. Custom shocks are expensive and before I drop the cash on it, I want to make sure I've got the right numbers.
Given the details already laid out in some previous posts, I was guided by helpful FB TSOR members towards the Bilstein 5125s, specifically 33-230375 and 33-230429.
Both shocks have:
Shock travel: 11.2"
Compressed length: 17.1"
Extended length: 28.3"
Cost per: $72
The difference between the two lies in the valving.
x375 is valved 255/70
x429 is valved 360/80
This means is that x375 is valved similar to the popular "Sequoia" shock upgrade, FJ Cruiser 5100, 33-187174, and x429 is invariably stiffer.
I had no basis to determine which would be the better valve rate, so I err'ed in the side of conservatism and selected the x375. I chose the x375 because I wanted a plush ride. This is not a race car.
MATERIALS:
Bilstein 5125, model number 33-230375 (qty. 2)
Prothane Pivot Bushing Kit 19-601
Washers with 3/4" ID (qty. 12)
DURATION: 5 hours
COST: $170
HOW-TO:
First let's highlight the differences between the 5100 and the 5125.
Other than the length, the lower shock eye mounting for the 5125 is noticeably different from the 5100.
Out of the box, the 5125 eye opening is 5/8" compared to the 5100s 3/4" and will not work.
Additionally, The shock lower eye bushing is smaller on the 5125 vs 5100 (width 1-3/8" vs 1-3/4", diameter 1-3/8 vs 2-1/8").
To mount the 5125, the shock eye needs to be modified to accept a 3/4" pin.
Initially, I tried to bore out the rubber bushing, but that didn't work out. So, now enter the Prothane bushings.
Comparing the OEM 5125 bushing to the Prothane bushing, you'll find that the OEM bushing tapers toward the center.
To be able to use the Prothane bushing on the 5125, it, too, needs to be tapered down.
5 minutes on the belt sander and voila:
Because the 5125 shock mount width is less than the 5100 width, you need the washers to fill in the width of the axle mounting pin.
There are lots of documentation in rear shock installation, so I'm not going to cover that here.
Comparison 5100 vs 5125 max droop.
All buttoned up with limit straps dialed in.
25 mile drivability test results:
I hate to say this, but the 5125s actually rode pretty nice, even with all the armor and additional 300 lbs of gear over my EDC gear. I took it down the worst roads I know of nearby at 50 mph and it actually felt controlled, relatively speaking. The jarring feeling was gone. The compression/rebound was comfortable. The difference was night and day. I was so disturbed about how "good" the ride quality was, I made multiple passes to check fade and whatnot. I was shockingly (hehe) surprised how well it handled the washboard-like street.
Some installation notes:
Given my setup, I've knew already that the panhard (aka lateral control bar) was the limiting component to my downtravel. Considering that I have more travel than the Dobinsons can allow, it didn't bother me all that much.
However, I realized on this install as I was cycling the suspension w/ the 5125s installed w/o rear coils, is that the panhard bar was limiting my uptravel on the driver's side. I could not hit the bumpstop with on the drivers side with the 5125 completely drooped. To fully cycle upward on the drivers side, I had to either raise the passenger side shock or disconnect the panhard bar.
I guess that's a problem for another day...