GR8ADV
Explorer
The only two options are from Gary's head or from the dometic manual in a box behind the driver seat.
Last edited:
2003 Mitsubushi FG Overland Camper Renovation
- Thread starter PaulJensen
- Start date
The only two options are from Gary's head or from the dometic manual in a box behind the driver seat.
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
14
(above) Paper backed vertical grain Douglas Fir veneer will be the predominant material covering the new interior... The ceiling panels are up, as is the back wall... The center strip on the ceiling will not be veneer...
(above) 1/4" VG Fir plywood was the initial plan, but the MDF core was exceedingly heavy, so the switch was to lightweight veneer... The weight for the veneer, for entire interior of the rear cabin, weighs about what a sheet and a half of the MDF core 1/4" plywood does...
The paper back veneers are delicate to work with...Confidence and a simple plan of installation are crucial, especially when putting them overhead...
Aerosol contact cement simplifies the process, but you still only get one shot to get it right...Try not think each sheet costs $85...
(above) Paper backed vertical grain Douglas Fir veneer will be the predominant material covering the new interior... The ceiling panels are up, as is the back wall... The center strip on the ceiling will not be veneer...
(above) 1/4" VG Fir plywood was the initial plan, but the MDF core was exceedingly heavy, so the switch was to lightweight veneer... The weight for the veneer, for entire interior of the rear cabin, weighs about what a sheet and a half of the MDF core 1/4" plywood does...
The paper back veneers are delicate to work with...Confidence and a simple plan of installation are crucial, especially when putting them overhead...
Aerosol contact cement simplifies the process, but you still only get one shot to get it right...Try not think each sheet costs $85...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
15
(above) The optional idiot light goes between + and D...Now where to place the beacon...
(above) Veneering progresses...When it comes time to place the damp with contact cement veneer, on a wall, it feels like trying to place a four foot wide, wet, brown paper bag, perfectly flat against the wall, make that the ceiling, perfect, the first time, every time... My strategy is to keep the sheets under a half sheet, so they can be somewhat easier to handle... Just don't stop and over-think it...
(above) Found the perfect place for the warning light...
(above) To let in as much bright, fresh aire as possible to keep the fridge happy, oversize vents are strategically placed on the side of the fridge wall...Also, another few inches were accessed for yet another drawer...
(above) The battle is almost over...
(above) Thanks to a new water tank, a sensible seating plan can diverge from the awkward step-up-dinette design that was there before...
(above) Pure virgin plastic...
(above) Also on the shop table, VG fir veneer...
(above) Dead corner bathroom sink...
(above) New kitchen sink...
More later...
(above) The optional idiot light goes between + and D...Now where to place the beacon...
(above) Veneering progresses...When it comes time to place the damp with contact cement veneer, on a wall, it feels like trying to place a four foot wide, wet, brown paper bag, perfectly flat against the wall, make that the ceiling, perfect, the first time, every time... My strategy is to keep the sheets under a half sheet, so they can be somewhat easier to handle... Just don't stop and over-think it...
(above) Found the perfect place for the warning light...
(above) To let in as much bright, fresh aire as possible to keep the fridge happy, oversize vents are strategically placed on the side of the fridge wall...Also, another few inches were accessed for yet another drawer...
(above) The battle is almost over...
(above) Thanks to a new water tank, a sensible seating plan can diverge from the awkward step-up-dinette design that was there before...
(above) Pure virgin plastic...
(above) Also on the shop table, VG fir veneer...
(above) Dead corner bathroom sink...
(above) New kitchen sink...
More later...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
16
(above) Driver side wall overlaid with VGDF paper-backed veneer...
Not an easy task and extra hands just get in the way...
To get the vertical seams tight, I first put up one piece by itself, then taped a new sheet to it with both pieces flat on the wall...
Then when it was time to glue them up, the new veneer was folded back over the newly installed piece, while still taped... The loose sheet was held open with a small piece of tape to the existing veneer...
Next, both the wall and the new veneer were shot with contact cement, then the new piece was slowly and carefully rolled dead flat to the wall... You get one chance to get it right... The old saying "...slow like a pro..." never was more true...
Once it all gets sanded with 220 grit and oiled it should look alright...
(above) While measuring for the veneer, I was surprised to find that the cabin is not even height from front to back...
Also, with the window trim rings on the inside temporarily off, the windows can be pushed out fairly easily...At least the rear side one on the driver side is...Seems like it was never caulked when it was installed...???...
(above) The side of the fridge cabinet was also veneered and the cut-outs trimmed...
Whew, the bulk of the wall veneering is done...
Next up, hooking up the water tank, some shower plumbing, some electrical at the seats, then securing the seat bases to the cabin, then over to the kitchen side...
(above) Driver side wall overlaid with VGDF paper-backed veneer...
Not an easy task and extra hands just get in the way...
To get the vertical seams tight, I first put up one piece by itself, then taped a new sheet to it with both pieces flat on the wall...
Then when it was time to glue them up, the new veneer was folded back over the newly installed piece, while still taped... The loose sheet was held open with a small piece of tape to the existing veneer...
Next, both the wall and the new veneer were shot with contact cement, then the new piece was slowly and carefully rolled dead flat to the wall... You get one chance to get it right... The old saying "...slow like a pro..." never was more true...
Once it all gets sanded with 220 grit and oiled it should look alright...
(above) While measuring for the veneer, I was surprised to find that the cabin is not even height from front to back...
Also, with the window trim rings on the inside temporarily off, the windows can be pushed out fairly easily...At least the rear side one on the driver side is...Seems like it was never caulked when it was installed...???...
(above) The side of the fridge cabinet was also veneered and the cut-outs trimmed...
Whew, the bulk of the wall veneering is done...
Next up, hooking up the water tank, some shower plumbing, some electrical at the seats, then securing the seat bases to the cabin, then over to the kitchen side...
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I wouldn't be at all surprised. I found that my roof vent had been just dropped in with no sealant.
FYI, Typically you would use butyl rubber tape not caulk for windows, etc. For anything up on the roof I'll use butyl tape between the surfaces and eternabond on top. I really don't like roof leaks.
mhiscox
Expedition Leader
Ken/Paul: Let me know if you find you need any EternaBond tape. I am awash in the stuff, bought for a previous project that didn't happen.FYI, Typically you would use butyl rubber tape not caulk for windows, etc. For anything up on the roof I'll use butyl tape between the surfaces and eternabond on top. I really don't like roof leaks.
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Just to continue to bang the Eternabond drum - IMHO it is a pretty essential part of your spares kit as well. You can use it to patch the skin of your camper just about anywhere.
This guy's butyl rubber tape is the best.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=3
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware&page=3
mhiscox
Expedition Leader
That's an interesting web site with useful information. Thanks for posting it.
One good thing about the EternaBond tape products is that the are routinely available in widths up to 6". (And they'll even sell you a roll of roof patching material that's 48" wide for about $1,000.)
EternaBond's adhesive side seemed to me to be about the stickiest substance known to man. Not a very good choice if you might ever want to undo the thing you EternaBonded on. (A Unimog camper, a roof vent, and more time and adhesive remover than you could imagine . . . and that's all I'm going to say about it.
)
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
17
(above) Friday I needed break from precision veneering, so the shower panels were started...Cedar and basswood, cut thin, planed to 1/8", cut to width and masking taped together on the backside...
(above) The panel is draped with fiberglass cloth and saturated with epoxy resin, then squeegeed evenly... The color really "pops" once it gets wetted out..
(above) Once the first panel was dry enough to move, the next one goes on the work table, and the last one is under the surfboard frame...
(above) Between coats, the water tank zone gets a final prep... A wood curb is screwed through to the subfloor and nylon straps are washed and screwed too...
(above) Over the straps is a piece of 1/2" Styrofoam...
(above) The tank is in place, the filling connections made and the straps are drawn tight...
(above) The water outlet is connected...
(above) More Styrofoam goes around the tank... Close to putting the seat back over the whole thing...
(above) In the shower, one of the panels is placed against a wall...It still needs fiberglassing on this side...
(above) Shower panel for the driverside wall...
(above) The panel for the shower valve wall...The centerline is offset so the shower valve will look centered...
More tomorrow...
(above) Friday I needed break from precision veneering, so the shower panels were started...Cedar and basswood, cut thin, planed to 1/8", cut to width and masking taped together on the backside...
(above) The panel is draped with fiberglass cloth and saturated with epoxy resin, then squeegeed evenly... The color really "pops" once it gets wetted out..
(above) Once the first panel was dry enough to move, the next one goes on the work table, and the last one is under the surfboard frame...
(above) Between coats, the water tank zone gets a final prep... A wood curb is screwed through to the subfloor and nylon straps are washed and screwed too...
(above) Over the straps is a piece of 1/2" Styrofoam...
(above) The tank is in place, the filling connections made and the straps are drawn tight...
(above) The water outlet is connected...
(above) More Styrofoam goes around the tank... Close to putting the seat back over the whole thing...
(above) In the shower, one of the panels is placed against a wall...It still needs fiberglassing on this side...
(above) Shower panel for the driverside wall...
(above) The panel for the shower valve wall...The centerline is offset so the shower valve will look centered...
More tomorrow...