2012 LR4 Overland Project - Build Journal & Blog

[treckin]

I was intending to put them on the angled guard just below where you mounted, for better approach/tire placement

 

[Blue Traveler]

The front cameras came out ok. I wish I would have done the rear camera first though. I will have to do what you did trekkin.

 

[Blue Traveler]

I was intending to put them on the angled guard just below where you mounted, for better approach/tire placement

That might be a better spot for them. Mine sit about an inch lower then the factory. So it may give a bit more of a view. I haven’t been off roading to test them though.

 

[ishapiro]

Any chance you have those screenshots? Ive finally come around to doing the differential project.

Here's the latest:

Got the TR full armor installed - bumpers, double swing out, nerf bar steps and sliders, gas tank skid etc etc.

I had a Warn 12S Platinum installed, with a Factor 55 Ultrahook

Removed the drawer system, posting it for sale here shortly (LMK if anyone's interested!). I liked it, but the wife missed the trunk space so it came out.

Did a full service on the trunk, changed every fluid in it (brake fluid, PS fluid, ATF, all 3 diffs, and coolant)

Did the EBC slotted rotors and pads all around

Removed the backup camera from the rear hatch and re-routed the coaxial cable our the rear left tail lamp area and made a bracket for the camera, mounted under the TR jerry can swingout. FoV is similar to the OEM location.

Need to unplug the rear ultrasonics, as they go nuts on the tire carrier whenever I put the truck into reverse.

I found a shop to do the differential rebuild (SF Differentials on Bryant in San Francisco), locating axles now. I also found a stretch of harness that has the 10-pin Kostal connector I needed to drive the diff. Its from an older build, but I think that the connector itself is correct. Hopefully the pinout is close and wont require major retooling.

Scoping the front ARB locker, compressor, and air lines. Thinking of mounting this compressor and a reservoir in the factor spare tire wheel well, and using the secondary trailer plug location next to the rear tow hook as a mounting location for air fittings (tools, airing up/down)

I read about L8 fitting 35" tires on their vehicle, now considering this route.

Pics:


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Additional photos in next post

Hey, sorry it took me while to get to it. Here you go:




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[treckin]

This didn’t give you the icon in the 4x4 nav app however?

thanks for sharing!

 

[ishapiro]

Yes, correct. The rear locking padlock is still missing.

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[troyangrignon]

For the record, this thread is amazing @treckin. Thanks for sharing all of this information (and to everybody else sharing theirs.)

 

[treckin]

For the record, this thread is amazing @treckin. Thanks for sharing all of this information (and to everybody else sharing theirs.)

Thanks!

Just got back from the Northern California Land Rover club meet in Bear Valley!

 

[Avslash]

@treckin

Fantastic idea on the rear camera relocation. Can't believe I hadn't thought of that.

I'm so tired of looking at my water jugs when backing up.

Now I have a new project.

Where did you source the connectors and wire?

 

[treckin]

@Avslash thanks!

I sourced the wiring from the rear hatch itself, didn’t need any more length.

Remove the rear hatch interior trim, one you’ve done that you should be able to see the black coaxial wire plugged into the backup camera.

remove the wire, being extremely careful as you untwist it, cut the factory felt tape wrapped around the sub harness.

once you’ve got the camera removed and the wire is fished out all the way to the umbilical at the roofline, you then remove the connector from the end of the coax wire so that it will fit through the grommet/umbilical.

then you’ll need to pull down the rear of the headliner so you can continue fishing the camera wire down the rear D pillar into the cavity behind the drivers side tail light.

here there’s an unused rubber grommet that can be adopted by making a hole for the coax wire.

Once you‘ve got the wire hanging out of the tail light grommet, it’s up to you to make a mount/route the wire in a way that it won’t get pinched or kinked.

these coax wires are extremely sensitive to bend radius and damage, so be gentle, go slow.

 

[Avslash]

@treckin

Got it. Thanks. I got the wire fished out today. Now waiting on some felt tape and Christmas tree zip ties to put the rest of the hatch harness back the way it was.

One other question, if I may.

When you picked up a power source for the camera in the new location, did you tie it to a circuit that is always energized when the truck is on, or one that is only energized when the truck is in reverse?

I'm assuming you didn't fish new wires through the hatch to keep it tied to the same power source.

Thanks again for the idea.

 

[treckin]

The camera is powered over the same 4 pin wire as the data, the only wire ?

just do the one wire it will work

 

[Toyolo_VanLife]

Did you

Yes, correct. The rear locking padlock is still missing.

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Any update on the padlock interface? From my research it seems this is an issue when doing the retrofit option. Weird that it potentially works but can't be properly displayed. Is there a way to get a software update that would include the graphic package to display the connection?

 

[treckin]

Did you

Any update on the padlock interface? From my research it seems this is an issue when doing the retrofit option. Weird that it potentially works but can't be properly displayed. Is there a way to get a software update that would include the graphic package to display the connection?

I havent done the swap yet, but i think I do have a lead on how to get the padlock.

It can’t be done with IID Tool, but there’s another scan tool that can flash the infotainment system with stock sw images. I can’t recall the name but I believe I have it bookmarked somewhere.

it was pricy so I was going to call around and see if I could find a shop with one.

 

[ishapiro]

I havent done the swap yet, but i think I do have a lead on how to get the padlock.

It can’t be done with IID Tool, but there’s another scan tool that can flash the infotainment system with stock sw images. I can’t recall the name but I believe I have it bookmarked somewhere.

it was pricy so I was going to call around and see if I could find a shop with one.

That's great! Please share when you do find a solution.

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