2013 Doublecab Worktruck

hornytoad

Desert Geologist
huntsonora - Thanks!

Been doing little things- removing the wheel locks and the spare tire lock. Called up Timbren and had them mail me a spacer for the rear end bump stops (1 1/2 inches of clearance is to much). trying to figure out where gear is going to live in the new bed/topper configuration which has a tentative install date of 5/11/2013.

Talked to Gadget at URD and let him talk me into a MAF calibrator and a URD shift kit. URD's in house testing shows a nice HP & gas mileage improvement by adjusting the stock signal coming off of the MAF. Toyotas do seem to run rich and this mod seems to have a loyal following so it seems like a safe improvement in drivabality. With my modded airbox and AFE air filter and the TRD exhaust we agreed that the URD "stock" profile will work, so I don't have to spend lots of time and money recalibrating, just solder it up and go. (Don't worry I'll take pictures and there are several treads over at Tacoma World that cover this mod in detail). The MAF calibration does nothing to the ignition curve so it does not change the fuel requirement, It just makes the Toyota parts run smoother.

NOTE: The 2012 doublecab work truck idled like a diesel, had a solid black tailpipe all the time and rarely got over 18mpg. So with the minor tune up mods that I figured out on the 2012 and am doing to the 2013 and the MAF recalibration I hope to see EPA or better gas mileage and have a fun truck to drive. I am also struggling with E10 fuel everywhere and 3-10k feet of elevation change.

The URD Shift kit seems to get good reviews and it's 1/3 the price of the TRD kit. Hopefully this will take some of the sluggishness out tho the shifter. Which really, really, reminds me of my 1987 FJ60.....
 

Ramjet

Explorer
NOTE: The 2012 doublecab work truck idled like a diesel, had a solid black tailpipe all the time and rarely got over 18mpg. So with the minor tune up mods that I figured out on the 2012 and am doing to the 2013 and the MAF recalibration I hope to see EPA or better gas mileage and have a fun truck to drive. I am also struggling with E10 fuel everywhere and 3-10k feet of elevation change.

The URD Shift kit seems to get good reviews and it's 1/3 the price of the TRD kit. Hopefully this will take some of the sluggishness out tho the shifter. Which really, really, reminds me of my 1987 FJ60.....

Totally agree. My 08 FJ has the same exact issues. Thanks. I'm going to look into this for mine as well.
 

hornytoad

Desert Geologist
VVTI Mod in a nutshell

VVT Filters.jpg

So these two filters are supposed to keep debris that somehow came from your engine from getting into the VVTi actuators mounted at the front of the engine. All well and good but there is nothing mentioned about maintaining these screens, ever. So based on my research on Toyota cars (they have these too) and on the Subaru problems with turbos (subaru put a screen in line with the turbo and it causes oil starvation and ate a bunch of turbos) I have decided to remove mine.

When I did it on the 2012 work truck I was trying to track down a nasty noise under hard acceleration. The dealership wants to call it pinging but what it is is unburned fuel being dumped into the cat causing exhaust detonation. This came up as an option so I tried it. It helped a little, the screens were clean however I decided to button the engine up with out them. And the engine revved "freeer" kinda hard to tell with an automatic but it hit redline faster than before and I "THINK" it enables the VVTi to engage and disengage more easily, allowing for better valve timing.

It's pretty straightforward. The passenger side filter is viewable and reachable from the wheel well, a 12" extension and a socket wrench and in come right out. The filter is attached to the block plug. Pull the filter off and bolt it back in place. Done on the passenger side.

Driver's side is a little more complex, pull the splash plate from under the engine, release tension on the serpentine belt, remove the belt from the alternator, remove the alternator. NOW you can go in through the wheel well and remove this filter. Reinstall the alternator, reattach the serpentine belt, make sure everything is snug. Test start the engine . Bolt on the splash plate.

Change will not be instantaneous, like anything that we do to a fuel injected motor it will take a few days for the computer to learn what you just did to the engine. In my case it liked it.

When I do mine i will take photos.
 

BenMara

Asian Redneck
Interesting i do remember those screens when i had a 2005 Subi FXT. Ill have to check this out next time i have the hood up.
 

hornytoad

Desert Geologist
lodi781 - Yeah I saw that on the URD website and ten did a double take. I have never seen a throwout bearing ride on the transmission nose like that before. On BMWs and Hondas throwout bearing rides on the drive spindle. Guess when we change out the clutch we will do this well for piece of mind.
 

Ramjet

Explorer
Check underdog racing...they have a throwout bearing fix for our tacomas...

They have it for the FJ as well. I'm on my second Throw Out Bearing now and I can already see it going down the wrong road. I guess I better get ready to order this as well. You would think Toyota would just replace it with this sleeve in order to alleviate the problem.
 
Airbox Mod - Found this on several of the Tacoma Forums. Toyota has a non replaceable charcoal filter in between the air filter and the mass air sensor. Carefully pry this filter out (if you are rough you can break the air filter housing). You can also get sophisticated and pull the air filter housing and then use a soldering iron to melt the heads off the plastic rivets. The backfire screen also comes out the same way. Gentle prying with a flat bladed screwdriver and the aluminum screen come out.
View attachment 155163
Charcoal filter
View attachment 155164
Backfire screen
View attachment 155165
Nice clean airbox

If you are really really careful this mod is reversible, but for most of us this is a un-reversable mod. The filter and backfire screen get ruined and they are considered part of the airbox so they are not available separately.

Pro- nice clean airflow over the mass airflow sensor. I think this give the computer more accurate information. Throttle response is improved.
You can use what ever drop in filter you want, Toyota, AFE ect...

Con- It's no longer stock


So have you really noticed any substantial difference after this mod? I researched this for quite awhile and many seem to flip flop on this. Some say HUGE difference others say it does nothing. some say the secondary filter helps even out the airflow for the airflow sensor to take its reading.

Still cant decide if its worth doing.
 
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hornytoad

Desert Geologist
When I noticed a difference it was a combination of all the "little" mods. the airbox and AFE air filter, modern sparkplugs, the VVTI screen removal, Mobil 1 5-30 and Redline drive train fluids. Because i did these mods one at a time the computer had to relearn the mods after each one, if you did them all at once it would be more noticeable. Once the ECU relears after the mods you will notice a little more pick up, smoother idle and a little better gas mileage. In the 2012 truck is also took care of the rumble with using 85 octane gas.

The gains will be minor, however this is all maintenance type work with nicer replacement parts/piece of mind.
 
sweet build! i plan on going the airbox mod, iridium plugs, EBC pads and slotted rotors all pretty soon, i am also thinking about doing the SS brake lines, but where did you get them? do you have a link?
thanks Dylan
 

hornytoad

Desert Geologist
So I have been swamped with work and haven't had time to do anything to the rig. I have a massive box of parts to install, Timbern sent me the new spacers for the rear bump stops, my local Redline dealer helped me pick through the offerings and get the differential and transmission lube I needed plus all the goodies from Wheelers. But too busy to take the truck down for a couple of days to do everything at once.

I managed to sneak off and install the URD short shift kit last night....

The directions are spot on (you download them from Gadget's website) you do need to know how to peen a set screw and use red locktight. It makes the agricultural feeling stock shifter laughable by comparison. I think the URD claim is a 44% shorter throw, the actual shifting is not 44% harder but it is a little more "notchey"(in a good way). The kit includes a spacer for the shifter housing and a new shifter "ball" that attaches to the factory shifter. No cutting or welding. You will want some Ultra grey or similar high temp silicone to seal up the shifter when you put it back together.

It should be removable if you want to put it back to stock. This would involve taking the shifter assembly off the truck and working on it at your bench with a dremel and a propane torch to grind away the peening and loosen the red lock tight. Take the spacer off the transmission and re-seal the shifter housing and bam! Back to stock.

Another thing I learned is that the SR5 6 speed has a huge amount of room underneath the center console for wiring or an AC inverter.. Hmmm

Back to the salt mines.... I hate writing.
 

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