2014 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon HeliNomad Build
- Thread starter HeliNomad
- Start date
I don't know if it was more cost effective or not. The problem was that I couldn't find the exact Jeep in the color, fully loaded Rubicon build, and didn't want to wait until AEV finished their move to the new building just to get started on mine. Working with Pollard directly and being able to talk to them 3 times a day (sorry Cory) through every little nuance and option was a real benefit. Also I love AEV, don't get me wrong, but I didn't want all their badging. Also the options on things like fairleads, winch lines, and lighting provided no alternatives. IPF and Masterpull stuff isn't my favorite. Pollard got everything right the first time with the gear that I wanted. So I guess you could argue that it's cost effective given the fact that I'm not buying things twice.
redthies
Renaissance Redneck
Depends on which spring rate you buy. My "light heavies" are fantastic. Not stiff at all.
Awesome Jeep Heli. We usually spend a few days in Napa each sept/oct. Hope to see it in person!
Thanks. So the AEV rack is awesome. I'm really happy with it. Here are some detail photos below:
As for the AEV snorkel...It's really a smart system. It is completely independent of the hood system. You would just pop out one of the heat reduction hood sides leaving a port for the snorkel to pass through. No cutting of the body is required what so ever. It is then anchored using the existing bolts on the A pillar. For this reason it does stay attached when the hood is open. The material it is made of is also quite impressive. Extremely strong... I have had all different brands and types of snorkels in my day and nothing is as well engineered nor as impressive as this one. I'm starting to pick up a theme with everything AEV...it just works.
So here is an update on some items:
1. I found out that the stock rear drive shaft is not really meant to stay on the truck if you lift it. It is just two thick and the rubber boot impacts the EVAP tray under full flex. So I learned that the hard way. I moved the EVAP tray and ordered a 1310 rear drive shaft to match the front.
2. I also learned that the front sway bars will impact this little nub that sticks out from the frame. So an angle grinder and 10 minutes later that was gone. This also subsequently solved a noise I was getting in the front driver side suspension under full compression from a large bump. Of course I repainted the ground area.
3. Lastly learned the hard way then when you put the AEV heat reduction hood on the truck you loose your emission sticker from your original hood. So I unknowingly went to the DMV like this to register the truck in CA and sure enough...issues with that. So Chrysler is sending me a replacement. No biggie in the end but just a nuisance. This really falls on the dealership who replaced the hood but I advise that if you do one of these hoods to make sure you get that sticker replaced. You dealer should be able to get one.
1. I found out that the stock rear drive shaft is not really meant to stay on the truck if you lift it. It is just two thick and the rubber boot impacts the EVAP tray under full flex. So I learned that the hard way. I moved the EVAP tray and ordered a 1310 rear drive shaft to match the front.
2. I also learned that the front sway bars will impact this little nub that sticks out from the frame. So an angle grinder and 10 minutes later that was gone. This also subsequently solved a noise I was getting in the front driver side suspension under full compression from a large bump. Of course I repainted the ground area.
3. Lastly learned the hard way then when you put the AEV heat reduction hood on the truck you loose your emission sticker from your original hood. So I unknowingly went to the DMV like this to register the truck in CA and sure enough...issues with that. So Chrysler is sending me a replacement. No biggie in the end but just a nuisance. This really falls on the dealership who replaced the hood but I advise that if you do one of these hoods to make sure you get that sticker replaced. You dealer should be able to get one.
Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
What is 730?
cool - thanks for the quick response. Looks like it's reinforced on the roll bar for support? Can you still remove the top with this rack on it?
Great info on the snorkel...
Great jeep all around.
As the rack is attached through the roof, you probably could... but it looks to be a pain in the ***. Especially if you're not removing it for a longer period of time. I think the bigger question would be could you still use the soft top with the rack attachments in place?
UConnect offers two radios for the Jeep, the basic nav unit is the 430N and the high end nav unit with XM weather and traffic and other features is the 730N. It has a much faster interface apparently. You can add the MyGig to either one.
Yea you just undo a couple bolts on the roll cage bracket and lift the entire rack off with the hard top. I'd say it adds 3 minutes to the process. It's obviously not compatible with a soft top which I don't have anyway. If you are going to be removing the roof a lot I'd go with a different roof rack system like from Gobi.
waterboy222
Adventurer
I have a 4.5" lift with stock driveshafts and have had zero problems with mine. 8000 miles since the lift was done and been on numerous trails and spend most weekends below the dam at Grand Lake in Disney playing on the rocks. What was the reasoning for new driveshafts? Strength? Length?
What year is your Jeep? After 2012 this became an issue. This is a video from Teraflex detailing the issue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkfLGjzH7Z4