I would recommend this replacement faucet as it's taller and easier to wash large pots:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09STJ6GB9
2020 Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) CAMP-X pop-up slide-in pickup camper (renamed "Back Country" as of 2023)
- Thread starter Chadx
- Start date
I would recommend this replacement faucet as it's taller and easier to wash large pots:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09STJ6GB9
Can we talk roofs for a minute?
First of all, I’m planning to add 40 pounds of solar panels to the roof -- that’s 4, 10 pound semi flexible 200w panels pretty much evenly dispersed across the roof surface; two on the rear and two on the front. Has anyone added this kind of weight overhead? Is this going to make the roof impossible to open? I have two cross-racks on the roof that I never use, so those guys are coming off to help mitigate the weight.
I’ve already had to give it all I got, when the roof had a bit of ice on it that I couldn’t scrape off! I can’t help but think the cold gas struts were working against me — or, the weatherstrip between the roof and the lower camper part might have been damp from the dewpoint, and frozen the two components together overnight. But otherwise i have no problem pressing the roof open, it’s certainly a good workout.
Also, there is an old flexi panel up there already that isn’t working very well. I’m tempted to just leave it there and fasten the new flexi-panels right on top of it. I’m afraid if I try peel it up and cut the glue off like in this video, I might end up damaging the gel coat / waterproofing of the roof. Although I am able to peel up the corners a bit, so sliding a long flat knife under to cut sheer through the adhesive wouldn’t require much lifting force.
First of all, I’m planning to add 40 pounds of solar panels to the roof -- that’s 4, 10 pound semi flexible 200w panels pretty much evenly dispersed across the roof surface; two on the rear and two on the front. Has anyone added this kind of weight overhead? Is this going to make the roof impossible to open? I have two cross-racks on the roof that I never use, so those guys are coming off to help mitigate the weight.
I’ve already had to give it all I got, when the roof had a bit of ice on it that I couldn’t scrape off! I can’t help but think the cold gas struts were working against me — or, the weatherstrip between the roof and the lower camper part might have been damp from the dewpoint, and frozen the two components together overnight. But otherwise i have no problem pressing the roof open, it’s certainly a good workout.
Also, there is an old flexi panel up there already that isn’t working very well. I’m tempted to just leave it there and fasten the new flexi-panels right on top of it. I’m afraid if I try peel it up and cut the glue off like in this video, I might end up damaging the gel coat / waterproofing of the roof. Although I am able to peel up the corners a bit, so sliding a long flat knife under to cut sheer through the adhesive wouldn’t require much lifting force.
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Update: The 40 pounds was no go.
To simulate 40# of rooftop solar, I decided to put a 10 pound water jug on each of the four corners of the roof, and then tried to lift it. While I could lift it up without veins bulging out of my forehead hulk mode, it wasn’t exactly easy, and I don’t think my wife could do it.
In the half-second between applying upward lift, and reaching with one hand for the hinge lock to push it into place, the roof wanted to slam back shut hard. So it was kind of a challenge. Upgrading the gas struts would mitigate this specific issue.
When closing the roof with the extra 40#, the final half slams shut so hard that I would be concerned about doing damage after, say, 500 slams. Either micro cracks appearing somewhere, or something loosening over time and catastrophically failing during a ‘slam’. Coming up with some kind of small portable worm drive raising/lowering mechanism (something like a scissors jack) would mitigate this specific issue.
Finally, I’ve had the forward half of the roof squish me a few times into the bed trying to close it, typically when I’m opening only the forward half of the roof to access the forward fan because I forgot to close it up. Not in a bad way, but more of “oh gee I need to be careful, I could get hurt if I’m twisted a particular way”. With the way it slams shut with the 40 pounds on it, and the likelihood of rushing to close the forward fan because it was discovered en route, one could absolutely get hurt badly in this situation. Gas strut upgrade would not help here.
So I decided that 40 pounds of additional weight on the roof is too much to safely and comfortably manage.
I tried with just 20 pounds, and that was much nicer, so I have revised my plans and will be adding “only” 2, 200-watt flexible solar panels to the roof. I will also be removing the two crossmember bars that I never use, and I’m going to carefully knife the old solar panel off as well.
Happy new year!
If you add weight to the roof, you can replace the gas struts with different struts that will compensate for the weight and make opening/closing the same, or even lighter if you like, than stock effort.
I've had a couple kayaks mounted up top on the crossbars, at 80lbs each (160lbs + single solar panel).
While it wasn't easy, we were able to raise and lower the roof with two people supporting the weight on our back (e.g. standing on the bench seat).
I definitely wouldn't do it solo - upgraded struts may help
While it wasn't easy, we were able to raise and lower the roof with two people supporting the weight on our back (e.g. standing on the bench seat).
I definitely wouldn't do it solo - upgraded struts may help
I‘m not sure beefier gas struts are able to ease the initial lift, or the final slam, of the roof. That was the problem for me. From the way they are positioned, it seems like they only assist the roof open/close process in the middle of the work band — not at either end. I could be wrong! If someone has upgraded the shocks and discovered this to be the case I’d love to know. But just looking at the physics, I don’t see it.
ITTOG
Well-known member
You're right about not helping the initial lift. No matter the size of the strut it will not help with that. But it will help with the slam down. A higher capacity strut will help control the closure longer so that it will not slam so hard. I have tested this with three different size struts on my pop top.
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- Replacing gas shock / gas struts / lift supports / gas springs -
My pop-top slams shut HARD. So hard that the bezel of the ceiling fan pops off with regularity. I think it's time to replace the gas springs. OEV referred me to my dealer, and my dealer referred me to the Canadian company that makes them, LS Technologies, stating that it's a farily unique gas spring and that sourcing an equivalent set from something like Lift Supports Depot might prove difficult.
LS Technologies did not respond to email, so I had to call. It cost $150 total, to send out a set of four gas springs to California, which should take 6 business days.
They should be installed "skinny side down," so that in the normally-closed position, the seal is bathed in oil to keep it supple. Failure to do this causes the seal to dry out quite prematurely.
For my 2021 CampX's pop-top, there are two gas springs on each side. The rear-most two springs are rated at 400 Newtons, and the front-most springs are rated at 310 Newtons. This is because one normally opens the rear of the camper first, and so more lift assist is provided by the 400 newtons set.
Finally here are some pictures of my existing, failing, gas springs' stickers.
It was a bit of a frustrating process to get infortmation on this, so I'm posting here in case it helps anybody else.
My pop-top slams shut HARD. So hard that the bezel of the ceiling fan pops off with regularity. I think it's time to replace the gas springs. OEV referred me to my dealer, and my dealer referred me to the Canadian company that makes them, LS Technologies, stating that it's a farily unique gas spring and that sourcing an equivalent set from something like Lift Supports Depot might prove difficult.
LS Technologies did not respond to email, so I had to call. It cost $150 total, to send out a set of four gas springs to California, which should take 6 business days.
They should be installed "skinny side down," so that in the normally-closed position, the seal is bathed in oil to keep it supple. Failure to do this causes the seal to dry out quite prematurely.
For my 2021 CampX's pop-top, there are two gas springs on each side. The rear-most two springs are rated at 400 Newtons, and the front-most springs are rated at 310 Newtons. This is because one normally opens the rear of the camper first, and so more lift assist is provided by the 400 newtons set.
Finally here are some pictures of my existing, failing, gas springs' stickers.
It was a bit of a frustrating process to get infortmation on this, so I'm posting here in case it helps anybody else.
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wackyhacky76CO
Active member
Just taking a poll here from any 2nd Gen Tundra/OEV Camp-X folks. I know our beds are deeper than most (which I find very annoying.LOL) and originally folks were using everything from stall mats to plywood to raise things up a bit to clear the bed sides (and roof). I am buying a 2021 Camp-X & I know it has rubber pucks/feet underneath. It currently resides in a RAM, that only has 20" deep bed. My 2020 truck also has the dumb shark fin antenna, so I have to clear it as well. Does anyone know if I can eventually get correctly sized feet to clear things properly? My initial conversation w/ our local dealer went the route of 3/4" plywood which I think is janky as a long term solution, but was curious how it has gone for any others.
Transit720
Member
I don't have experience with using horse stall mats, but I've heard of people using them (rather than plywood) to raise camper.
plywood will almost certainly rot and break down/mold, esp in a moist environment. horse mats, I believe, are synthetic so you don't have to worry about moisture ruining them. but they are heavy and $. if u must go plywood route, look into the "baltic birch" variety.
plywood will almost certainly rot and break down/mold, esp in a moist environment. horse mats, I believe, are synthetic so you don't have to worry about moisture ruining them. but they are heavy and $. if u must go plywood route, look into the "baltic birch" variety.
Ninelitetrip
Well-known member
Horse stall mats. Works well.
If you can't get appropriate height pucks from OEV for reasonable cost, hockey pucks or livestock mats are the best, and most available, solutions.
All of these are slightly compressible and also grip well. Lumbar can be used as a temp solution, but not ideal for long term.
Keep in mind livestock mats are heavy (80 or 90 lb for one 3/4" mat), so will impact total payload, but you do not need the entire sheet. OEV should only be supported under the perimeter of the footprint, under the extrusion, and not by the composite floor itself.
If using livestock mats, use a utility knife (repeatedly slice while flexing) to cut about 5" wide strips and use those under the front and two sides of the extrusion. The rear of the camper will hang out the back of your Tundra so no support possible there.
If you need it taller, stack the needed strips of mat.
That being said, OEV pucks, or hockey pucks, will be the lightest weight solutions.
Edit: You will be surprised how much the bed and cab flex independently of one another, so give the cab and shark fin plenty of room from the cabover.
All of these are slightly compressible and also grip well. Lumbar can be used as a temp solution, but not ideal for long term.
Keep in mind livestock mats are heavy (80 or 90 lb for one 3/4" mat), so will impact total payload, but you do not need the entire sheet. OEV should only be supported under the perimeter of the footprint, under the extrusion, and not by the composite floor itself.
If using livestock mats, use a utility knife (repeatedly slice while flexing) to cut about 5" wide strips and use those under the front and two sides of the extrusion. The rear of the camper will hang out the back of your Tundra so no support possible there.
If you need it taller, stack the needed strips of mat.
That being said, OEV pucks, or hockey pucks, will be the lightest weight solutions.
Edit: You will be surprised how much the bed and cab flex independently of one another, so give the cab and shark fin plenty of room from the cabover.
Went back and found a post of mine showing strips of livestock mat that I used. This was back before OEV offered pucks.
https://forum.expeditionportal.com/...d-back-country-as-of-2023.214329/post-2773760
https://forum.expeditionportal.com/...d-back-country-as-of-2023.214329/post-2773760
On my 2018 Tundra (what is that, 2.5 generation?), my OEV dealer used an assembly consisting of the stock OEV "donut" bumpers against the bed of the truck, and then a standard hockey puck above it, and longer bolts going into the threaded inserts on the bottom of the camper. That's quantity (10) 1" tall, 3" diameter vulcanized rubber hockey puck you can buy at any sport store.
On my first outing, I found a really cool rock and put it in one of the cavities in the bed of the truck. After some serious off-roading and camper-wiggling, the rock worked its way underneath the camper and got pinned underneath one of the bottom edges of the camper! I didn't realize this for quite some time. It chewed up the paint under the camper, and created a small fulcrum that caused the camper to wiggle in a strange fashion and bend the hell out of one of the puck/donut assemblies, which I now have to try and un-bolt and replace. I really hope it just bent the bolt and didn't do any damage to the insert.
So if you have the camper suspended above the bed in such a fashion that creates an empty cavity between the bed of the truck and the bottom of the camper, such as with the hockey puck trick, be mindful of what you put in the stash spots in the bed of the truck. Things there can work their way under the camper and subsequently get crushed and/or cause serious trouble when the camper is hopping side to side and up-and-down.