2022 Ford F550 - DIY - Adventure Expedition Vehicle Build Thread

[Vance Vanz]

well in a self punishing way it would be fun And when you invariably sell the rig years down the road you can tell the buyer “look, I spent xyz hours building this…”

Let the PUNISHMENT begin!!!!

Rruff, I think minimum wage is way too generous ?, I'm pissing myself right now ?!

Even if you know what you are doing, it still takes a long time tracking everything down, dealing with the frequent vendor/shipping/product/contractor issues and customizing everything. Unless you have built the same/a similar rig before, the time to design, plan and customize products/everything, even products that are pretty much supposed to be a direct drop in/bolt on, is NUTS.

Issue Examples:

• Of the three outside contractors that I have used on the build so far, I have had to fix myself and/or swallow issues/their mistakes for two of them. And yes, these were supposed to be reputable shops/contractors in their industry. I will eventually create a separate post on the Expo Portal for one of them, whom many of you know, documenting the poor experience.
• It took three separate vendors and four badly damaged sets of electric steps, before I finally just had to keep the scratched fifth set and re-paint them myself.
• I could go on at nauseam..............

Some people call this process fun, but after a year into it, and thousands of decisions/modifications/hours, still to come, it can wear on yah. I'm at that point in the process where I can finally see the peak of this MASSIVE mountain (What I'm calling getting most, if not all, of the composite work done (Outer: shell, fenders, fairings and Inner: structural walls, cabinets and shelves). Once all of this is done, it will then be mostly smaller interior projects/finish items. Not that these won't take time to do, but they will be smaller projects that will be completed much faster than say, building the entire shell out of carbon fiber by hand . Visual progress of the final product/aesthetic will also happen more rapidly at this point.

Seeing the peak and knowing that I'm about 1-2 months out from reaching it, really being in the thick of the interior work, and being able to see/finalize what the internal/external aesthetic will become, has shot a little energy into me. MUCH needed energy. When I get to this point, hopefully that late night spontaneous dance party ????will occur.

As for the total hours calculation and real PUNISHMENT Trackhead:

For me, I've been working on this thing full time, except for about 4-1/2 weeks (3 personal and 1.5 being sick) since March of 2022. On average, I am probably putting in 12-14 hours per day, seven days a week. Just take 13 hours/day, times 7 days/week from March 2022, to date, and/or to the end of the project (last build post) and that will be a pretty close time estimate. if you wanted a grand total (conceptualization to finished product) time estimate, you could also add another 3 months at these hours/week rate, for all of the initial/upfront build: research, planning and designing,

I can't wait to see this thing mounted as well . Although, the thought of mounting it brings up a little bit of anxiety and dread.

I still have not figured out/finalized how I'm going to raise/lift the camper up. I will also have to wheel the camper out of the shop each time I want to raise it/put it on the truck (the shop is not tall enough for the camper to sit on the truck). Light Bulb ?, I'll make a separate post and ask the brain trust.

 

[Vance Vanz]

Ideas Needed - Raising the Camper Shell

Hey all,

I'm about 1-2 months out from needing to raise the camper and get it on the truck. As per the previous post,

"I still have not figured out/finalized how I'm going to raise/lift the camper up. I will also have to wheel the camper out of the shop each time I want to raise it/put it on the truck (the shop is not tall enough for the camper to sit on the truck). Light Bulb ?, I'll make a separate post and ask the brain trust."

Since I'm currently buried in other projects, I thought I would leverage the forum and get some ideas in advance.

The plan has been, and will continue to be, building/finalizing the camper shell off of the truck while it is sitting on the stand inside the shop. I only want to put the camper on the truck about three times: #1 for design/fitment work. #2 when taking it to be painted/any other outside work needed with the camper shell on the truck, etc. #3 when making the final mother ship mount.

As you know, the camper is on a wheelable stand, 22-24" tall, can't remember exactly. I will need to wheel it out of the shop to lift it. I do not plan on keeping/storing whatever I use to raise the camper. I obviously want the quickest, most economical and also a safe way to get it up-hopefully only three times.

My initial thoughts:

#1. I know bottle jacks can be used in conjunction with 2x4's/4x4's to get it up. (Two 4x4's sitting perpendicular to the length of the camper and a bottle jack on each end of the 4x4, four total bottle jacks.) The issue is finding stable/adjustable bases that can be used to sit under the bottle jacks while raising, while also having another stable/adjustable item to place next to the bottle jack, under the 4x4, while adjusting/raising the height. This is a ton of large blocks and or barrels that would be needed to step everything up, corner by corner, until the camper is high enough to wheel the stand out of the way and back the truck under.

• I can scrounge up 4 bottle jacks, but would have to buy a lot of blocks that I probably couldn't sell after using.

#2. Camper stands/jacks. The issue with this is, no drilling of mounting holes into the composite camper can occur. So, I would have to build a steel or wood frame/rectangular L frame that would sit/cup the bottom edge of the camper. The camper jacks then could be mounted/secured to the steel/wood frame. The frame/mounting of the jacks to the frame would also have to be strong/secure enough to prevent the camper from raking and causing everything to fall over.

• I would have to purchase camper jacks (hopefully used) and could possibly resell them (hopefully near what I paid for them). If the frame was out of say 2x4's, that would not be much money to have to scrap.

#3 Rent something three times to lift the camper each time. It would need to lift roughly 1,200-1,600 pounds (my best guess as to the final weight with all composite work done) and be able to rig/lift the top of the camper 11'-2" off the ground.

• Just the rental cost with this option, no buying/reselling/building needed, but what to use at the most economical rate?

Ideas and options that you have used please !

 

[trackhead]

When that work of carbon fiber ART gets mounted it will all be worth it!!!! You’ll drive around town proud as heck.

 

[Vance Vanz]

Composite Vendors & Suppliers - I have been using

FYI, if it is helpful.

I've been spending the last few days inventorying all of the remaining composite supplies I have on hand and calculating what I need to (Hopefully ???) finalize ALL of the remaining composite work on the project. Basically one last composite order. Whoo Motha F-ing Hoo!

With that said, I thought I would post the three vendors that I have been mostly using for all of my composite: core, carbon fiber, resin and consumables (vacuum bagging/resin infusion). I will also include a 4th for bulk ordering. These are the vendors that I have found for the best pricing given the quality of products and shipping rates.

A couple of caveats.

• I'm in Boise-no-man's-land, for local composite suppliers, so EVERYTHING has to be shipped to me. You may have a local supplier that is more expensive than the suppliers I will list, but because you do not have to pay shipping rates, your local supplier may be overall less expensive.
• I am not using/receiving any contractor rates with suppliers. I did not have the time to set up business accounts. If I had more time, maybe I should have, given the amount of composite materials I am using on this project. These are your average Joe, non contractor/business, rates.

In no particular order:

Composite Envisions

Composite Envisions - Offering The Largest Selection of Carbon Fiber, Kevlar & Other Composite Materials In The Industry

Composite Envisions is your trusted source for Composite/Carbon Fiber Plates & Veneer Sheets, Carbon Fiber Fabrics, Resins & more!

compositeenvisions.com

US Composites

Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber - U.S. Composites, Inc.

America's leading distributor of composite materials. We combine superior products and the industries' lowest prices with fast and accurate service.

www.uscomposites.com

Fiberglass Supply

Fiberglass Supply

Supplier of carbon fiber fabrics, fiberglass, epoxy resins, core materials, polyester resins, surfboard blanks and other supplies for working with composites.

fiberglasssupply.com

Airtech (Bulk buying)

Airtech Intl. Store

Estore Airtech lnternational, lnc. - Airtech Advanced Materials Group

estore.airtechintl.com

My karma tank is now full for the day .

Back to spending more money than I would like to on composite materials ?

 

[rruff]

Ideas Needed - Raising the Camper Shell

I have a similar issue, only I'm planning on doing this just once... and have ~800 lbs to lift. And I'm doing it on uneven ground. I figured I'd use 3 pillars of concrete blocks (two blocks at each level, alternation direction, with foam pads on top); one in the center back, and two near the front of the floor, with a wooden box beam (10 ft) in between. I figured two helpers would be enough; two to lift and hold and one to add another row of blocks at each pillar.

You may want to get some Brophy cable jacks. You can build a similar box beam and attach it to each of them. Place near the CG and lift it up.

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/Brophy/CJ74.html

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Just found this build thread! VERY COOL!

 

[telsbree]

Awesome build! If you need a hand let me know.

I'm looking at a similar problem with raising a camper. One option is to build a wooden gantry (or rent scaffolding) and use chain hoists to raise/lower.. That or purchase hydraulic camper jacks and sell them after using.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Awesome build! If you need a hand let me know.

I'm looking at a similar problem with raising a camper. One option is to build a wooden gantry (or rent scaffolding) and use chain hoists to raise/lower.. That or purchase hydraulic camper jacks and sell them after using.

If your truck is not a daily or being used often, just build the camper in place, on top of it.

That’s what I did and exponentially easier and much fewer logistics than mounting it after the fact

 

[Vance Vanz]

I have a similar issue, only I'm planning on doing this just once... and have ~800 lbs to lift. And I'm doing it on uneven ground. I figured I'd use 3 pillars of concrete blocks (two blocks at each level, alternation direction, with foam pads on top); one in the center back, and two near the front of the floor, with a wooden box beam (10 ft) in between. I figured two helpers would be enough; two to lift and hold and one to add another row of blocks at each pillar.

You may want to get some Brophy cable jacks. You can build a similar box beam and attach it to each of them. Place near the CG and lift it up.

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/Brophy/CJ74.html

rruff,

Thanks so much for the reply and recommendation on the cable jacks. I will keep them in mind as I weigh the options.

Sorry that I did not respond sooner. I have been grinding away on the build and I also have not received any email notifications regarding those replying to the/my thread. This happens to me often with other peoples threads that I am following, but this is the first time on my thread ?

Also, thanks for sharing the details on how you are planning on getting your camper up. I wish you luck. If I was in the neighborhood I would lend a hand ?.

 

[Vance Vanz]

Just found this build thread! VERY COOL!

Hey Camperthing!

Welcome to the party, or should I say Show. ?

Thanks for stopping by and commenting.

Also, thanks again for being super responsive with several of the questions I had asked you awhile back on your build thread. I appreciated it VERY MUCH, as well as your candor.

Sorry for the belated reply. For some reason I'm currently not getting email notifications for my thread.

 

[Vance Vanz]

Awesome build! If you need a hand let me know.

I'm looking at a similar problem with raising a camper. One option is to build a wooden gantry (or rent scaffolding) and use chain hoists to raise/lower.. That or purchase hydraulic camper jacks and sell them after using.

Hey telsbree,

Thanks and thanks for the recommendations ?.

I used to rebuild chillers back in the day and would use an aluminum gantry all the time with various chain hoists, straps, etc. This is one of the possible options to rent if it is reasonable and available in the Boise area.

Since I will most likely be raising/lowering the camper during the week/work day for most, I will probably end up doing it solo. I'm guessing renting a gantry or lift for the few times I will need them may be the cheapest and safest way.

Purchasing and selling camper jacks has crossed my mind, but the time it may take to post and sell them, along with the difference in cost vs what I sell them for, may be a wash compared to just renting something.

I'll crunch some numbers as I get closer and post what I have found.

 

[Vance Vanz]

Pass Through - Upholstered/New Seat

I got the 40 seat back from the upholster and it looks pretty good.


This may be the first item completely finished on the project. Well, maybe not. I still have to finish the mounting hardware for the seat leg and the upholster technically did not do exactly what I asked ☹?.

On the RH 40 seat (the one that comes standard with the truck) the side panel on the inside edge of the seat (on the back wrest portion of the seat) is cloth, not leather/vinyl. I specifically mentioned this to the upholster while telling him to mirror the new LH seat to the factory RH seat.

Well of course he used leather/vinyl on that specific panel of the new LH seat and not cloth. Not a big deal, but now i am going to have to have the stock RH factory seat side panel upholstered in leather/vinyl to match the new LH seat.

Originally I was going to do this anyway, so the back seat inside side panels would match the front seat inside side panels exactly, but I decided to let my OCD go and just keep things simple and easy. So much for that.

Beyond having them match the front seats exactly, there is also the added benefit for those with pets that will use the pass through. Leather/vinyl will not collect pet hair like cloth will.

 

[Vance Vanz]

Pass Through - Floor & Mounting the New Seat

Since I received the new seat and I also needed a break from composite work, I decide to spend a little time on the crew cab area for the pass through.

I've already mentioned that I'm going to be pretty detailed on the pass through process. I know most of this info is specific to a Ford, but I'm sure there will also be helpful general info that applies to a pass through for any truck/rig. The hope is that I can save someone many headaches, mishaps and hours, if not days, of time.

I'm learning first hand that my pass through is much more involved than I ever imagined. Go figure hey; I'm sure this is going to be the case for everything on the build ??!

Beyond finalizing the overall size of the pass through/cut lines on the back wall of the cab and the seats, nothing else has been decided/finalized.

I started with the floor in the crew cab area. I ultimately considered two options #1 keep the floor storage box and factory floor mat as is #2 Remove the floor storage box, keep the factory floor mat and buy another factory floor mat (or WeatherTech rear floor mat), so the/a factory floor mat: could be spun 180 degrees, butt jointed to the other, a few clean cuts made and the entire floor would have a factory floor mat and factory look).

I'm all about keeping things simple, clean and cost effective if possible. There is no sense in reinventing the wheel if I don't have to, especially if there are already factory options.

I decided to stick with option #1 for the extra storage options it already provides and not having to spend money that I didn't need to.

Next was mounting the new LH seat. The back of the seat was hitting the seat belt bracket on the back wall just below the window. I ground it off and will do a final clean up/paint when cutting the pass though.


The left front leg (when facing the seat) landed right on the plastic of the back storage area of the floor storage box. Originally I decided to cut the plastic to accommodate the leg.


After considering how I would also need to remount the factory amp for the speakers and subwoofer (Under the new LH seat), I decided to remove the back storage area of the floor storage box completely. About six screws, Dremel-ing four melted/molded plastic areas and 5-10 minutes of painless work later, and the back section was off cleanly and easily.


Next was cutting out the factory carpeting under the two left legs of the seat (when facing the seat) and installing a riv nut in the factory mounting channel/rail for the left front leg of the seat.


This may save you some time: I decided to stick with the factory M10 mounting bolt for the left front leg of the seat. I was originally going to use a plus nut, or the million other names they may be called: (cross nut, steel slotted body, steel pre-bulbed shank) as opposed to a standard riv nut. Since this channel/rail is aluminum and this was for a seat leg, I wanted the extra surface area/strength. After a couple hours of digging and several phone calls of trying to get an M10 plus nut or jack nut, I discovered no one stocks them and the only people that would/could special order them had a minimum order of 1,000 or 10,000. No thanks, riv nut it is.

A welded insert is also an option, but I didn't need something that fancy and time consuming .

 

[Vance Vanz]

Pass Through - Re-Mounting the Amp

Because the subwoofer will take up all of the space behind the new LH seat, the amp needed to be moved from the back wall to under the seat. I also wanted to keep the amp as close to its original location as possible in hopes of not having to extend any of the factory wiring. Keep it simple?.

Option #1 was to use/modify the factory galvanized mounting bracket and attach/mount it to the seat legs


Option #2 was to mount the amp flat on the floor/to the same channel/rail that the seat leg is mounted to

Option #3 was to mount it at an angle on the angled floor towards the back area underneath the seat


I chose option #3 for several reasons. I tried #1 after altering the factory bracket and it was a pain/wouldn't have worked. #2 resulted in the amp taking up all of the space under the seat and would have required extending the factory wiring. #3 provided additional storage space under the seat if needed (not a huge amount, but any inch of storage space on an expedition vehicle is gold) and did not require extending the factory wiring.

You will have to undo the loom tape on the factory wiring and bring the amp/subwoofer wiring out earlier (as opposed to them being loom taped all the way to the back wall of the cab) to get the needed extra length on the wiring. This is how you can easily get the needed length on the wiring without having to cut and extend anything.


Note: with option # 3, your mounting bolts for the amp will penetrate through the cab. They are not visible and are super high up on the underside of the cab, but for those that cannot stand to penetrate the cab, option #2 may be your best bet.

Next up, subwoofer

 

[Vance Vanz]

Pass Through - Re-Building & Re-Mounting the Subwoofer

Oh Boy, this was a doozy. Do me a favor and PLEASE do NOT try this at home.

This was my first somewhat of a mistake on the build; a complete waist of time. Luckily it didn't cost me any money, or that much, just a few bucks on epoxy.

Here we go, learn from my mistakes ??! No shame ???.

Factory subwoofer that is way too big to fit behind the 40 seat.


Lets keep it factory, cheap and simple! I'll just cut it down and epoxy it. Epoxy holds everything together right?


I've used epoxy on certain plastics before and it worked great. The internet even said epoxy works great on plastic/ABS stereo/sub boxes. OK, her we go with templating.........


First side curing in the DIY make shift oven, all bonded up and templating the other side


Man, this thing is looking great and it will fit perfect. All i need to do is bond the top.


I even figured out how to bond some mounting feet to it it and made a little custom bracket to mount to the factory mount on the top of the sub box


I spray painted the bracket black, bought all the mounting hardware for the box and even ordered raptor liner to make it look all pretty and possibly even factory to the novice.

AAAAAAND......... the first hand file/Dremel I used to smooth out a joint/all the uneven bonded joints before sanding............... slight separation on the seem. Well that sucks! Lets put a little pressure (OK a lot) on some of the joints and see what happens......... Snap crackle pop Rice Krispies.

Well there went a few days of work.

This is when I was in the weeds and almost waisted even more time and money.

"Well I guess I have to figure out another way to make a subwoofer box for the factory subwoofer to sit in. I don't have the time to devote to making a/another box and it will need to be super thin material. MDF or thick acrylic won't work and ABS didn't take the epoxy well. I'll just sub this one out to a stereo shop."

After several calls and quotes for $800-1,500 for a custom box made out of fiberglass, I start thinking about how I will have to make one out of fiberglass because I'm not about to pay a grand for a small fiberglass box. The thought of this was nauseating, but I had to do it since I wanted a decent sound system and a stereo without a sub is going to sound like crap. Remember, I'm still in the weeds, deep in tunnel vision, and I am not thinking clearly.

Luckily, after sleeping on it, I wake up and say, "someone has to make a smaller compact subwoofer, even if I have to go to a non ported sub". So I call around and everyone says, "of course, what you need is a powered sub (a subwoofer and the associated amp all in one box). There are 8" compact ones and they will replace your 8" factory subwoofer and the box. Good ones that will match and/or out perform your factory unit are $250-400."

SOLD and why did I not think of this earlier? The one I chose (Kicker Hideaway HS8) was even on sale for $250 and in stock locally. Two days waisted on screwing around with the factory box and I could have avoided it all for $250 bucks.

Measuring and designing a custom bracket for the new powered sub took some time. I'll post pics when the bracket is done and everything is mounted.

NOTE: If you go this route, you will still need your factory amp, as it powers your speakers.

Next up, pass through step platform.