Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Thanks trackhead, much appreciated!
I'll take a prescription for five professional expedition builders for two months, pro bono of course. And, make sure one of them is an expert in composite work please ?.
2022 Ford F550 - DIY - Adventure Expedition Vehicle Build Thread
- Thread starter Vance Vanz
- Start date
I'll take a prescription for five professional expedition builders for two months, pro bono of course. And, make sure one of them is an expert in composite work please ?.
Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Wow; it has been over a month since I last posted. Sorry everyone.
I hope everybody had a good 4th.
Lets start with a Humanness Check In......
I have been grinding away on the build non stop every day and more importantly, the build has been grinding on me 24/7. I'm mentally, emotionally and physically beat. I just keep putting one foot in front of the other, inch by inch, trying to get the composite work done. I'm running off of pure will power right now; the grittiest of grit!
It is super hard being relatively close to the end of the composite work, and wanting to see this thing come back from paint, but still having so much composite work left to do. The final interior and exterior punch list items for the composite work are just taking forever to wrap up. The amount of time that goes into some of these remaining composite projects is mind boggling, literally almost incomprehensible at times.
If this was a fight, my azz is getting dragged around the floor 😆.
Now back to our regularly scheduled program.
I hope everybody had a good 4th.
Lets start with a Humanness Check In......
I have been grinding away on the build non stop every day and more importantly, the build has been grinding on me 24/7. I'm mentally, emotionally and physically beat. I just keep putting one foot in front of the other, inch by inch, trying to get the composite work done. I'm running off of pure will power right now; the grittiest of grit!
It is super hard being relatively close to the end of the composite work, and wanting to see this thing come back from paint, but still having so much composite work left to do. The final interior and exterior punch list items for the composite work are just taking forever to wrap up. The amount of time that goes into some of these remaining composite projects is mind boggling, literally almost incomprehensible at times.
If this was a fight, my azz is getting dragged around the floor 😆.
Now back to our regularly scheduled program.
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Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Interior Cabinets & Shelves Blank Offs - Frig Stack
I sure hope this is the last stack of composite panels I need to cut for the build
Upper cubby cabinet in the Frig Stack:
Pre bonding & bonding in the stack
Tabbing
Pantry cabinet in the Frig Stack:
Bonding CF backing brackets to create a chase behind the pantry cabinet
Dry fitting, bonding and tabbing
I sure hope this is the last stack of composite panels I need to cut for the build
Upper cubby cabinet in the Frig Stack:
Pre bonding & bonding in the stack
Tabbing
Pantry cabinet in the Frig Stack:
Bonding CF backing brackets to create a chase behind the pantry cabinet
Dry fitting, bonding and tabbing
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Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Interior Overhead Cabinet Blank Offs - Passenger Side
Laying out a little box out for the awning wiring that will need to pass through the camper side wall, just outside of the overhead cabinet
Bonding the upper blank offs in the cabinet, blank off for the small electrical compartment on the far left and the awning wiring box out
All tabbed. Tabbing the inside of the small electrical compartment, far left, was a PITA
Back to grinding out the finished fillets/tabbing at the front of the cabinets to accommodate the 3/4" x 3/4" finished pieces of cabinetry/wood that will need to be bonded inside of the CF cabinet frames in many locations. More detailed, tedious and time consuming FUN!
Laying out a little box out for the awning wiring that will need to pass through the camper side wall, just outside of the overhead cabinet
Bonding the upper blank offs in the cabinet, blank off for the small electrical compartment on the far left and the awning wiring box out
All tabbed. Tabbing the inside of the small electrical compartment, far left, was a PITA
Back to grinding out the finished fillets/tabbing at the front of the cabinets to accommodate the 3/4" x 3/4" finished pieces of cabinetry/wood that will need to be bonded inside of the CF cabinet frames in many locations. More detailed, tedious and time consuming FUN!
StenchRV
Well-known member
I get it...my body is wore out, sore all over, and we did not even come CLOSE to your level of work.
Keep up the good fight, but take a mental day or two for yourself. It paid GET DIVIDENDS when we stepped away for a little while. Came back full on!
The amount of work you are putting in is CRAZY! I watched a friend build a composite aircraft, Velocity, and HOLY CRAP! I get it! I know the finish line seems like it is on another planet right now, just keep putting one foot in front of the other. It will be EPIC when you finish!
CHEERS!!
Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Cabinets & Shelves - Laying Carbon Fiber in Core Edges/Faces
Ohhhh Boooy
😬, this one kicked up a bit of anxiety for me. Being at the one yard line of wrapping up the CF cabinetry and shelving work, I didn't want to screw this one up and have to do ANY re-work.
Basically, any exposed foam core edge that would be visible, needed to be filled with either structural epoxy, fairing material or a strip of CF. Since the latter was the best way to ensure that there would be no eventual surface/stress cracks, I chose it.
Soooooo, I needed to route out the thinnest groove possible in the core to accept a layer of 5.7oz cloth and a little resin, WITHOUT, tearing into the existing CF skins on the cabinets and/or shelves.
I originally tried to find a rabbeting router bit/set that I could use, but I couldn't find any that were a 1/16" or less and I really only needed about a sliver taken out. The final decision was to just use a straight router bit and free hand everything. Luckily I didn't blow through the CF skin on anything-THANK YOU BUILD UNIVERSE!
After a ton of tedious free hand routing I had to start templating and cutting supper thin strips of CF cloth to lay into everything. Cutting 1/2" and 3/4" wide strips of CF cloth is not fun, or easy. You have to spray tack everything and be super precise. There was A LOOOOOOOOOT of DEEEEEEEEEEP BREATHING going on.
Since I am detail oriented, overbuilding a bit and some might say INSANE 🤪, I also decided to reinforce any 3/4" core edges and any 1/2" cabinet core edges where the cabinet bumpers would be located/hit with an additional layer/piece of 8.85oz biaxial cloth.
Ohhhh Boooy
😬, this one kicked up a bit of anxiety for me. Being at the one yard line of wrapping up the CF cabinetry and shelving work, I didn't want to screw this one up and have to do ANY re-work.Basically, any exposed foam core edge that would be visible, needed to be filled with either structural epoxy, fairing material or a strip of CF. Since the latter was the best way to ensure that there would be no eventual surface/stress cracks, I chose it.
Soooooo, I needed to route out the thinnest groove possible in the core to accept a layer of 5.7oz cloth and a little resin, WITHOUT, tearing into the existing CF skins on the cabinets and/or shelves.
I originally tried to find a rabbeting router bit/set that I could use, but I couldn't find any that were a 1/16" or less and I really only needed about a sliver taken out. The final decision was to just use a straight router bit and free hand everything. Luckily I didn't blow through the CF skin on anything-THANK YOU BUILD UNIVERSE!
After a ton of tedious free hand routing I had to start templating and cutting supper thin strips of CF cloth to lay into everything. Cutting 1/2" and 3/4" wide strips of CF cloth is not fun, or easy. You have to spray tack everything and be super precise. There was A LOOOOOOOOOT of DEEEEEEEEEEP BREATHING going on.
Since I am detail oriented, overbuilding a bit and some might say INSANE 🤪, I also decided to reinforce any 3/4" core edges and any 1/2" cabinet core edges where the cabinet bumpers would be located/hit with an additional layer/piece of 8.85oz biaxial cloth.
Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Cabinets & Shelves - Laying Carbon Fiber in Core Edges/Faces - Continued ....
The layups in certain areas
Peel Ply off and excess resin that needs to be cleaned up
Final product sanded and ready for fairing (various areas)
It felt good to check this composite item off the build list, but I was surprised by the amount anxiety and time it created/consumed.
The layups in certain areas
Peel Ply off and excess resin that needs to be cleaned up
Final product sanded and ready for fairing (various areas)
It felt good to check this composite item off the build list, but I was surprised by the amount anxiety and time it created/consumed.
Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Composite Subfloor Chases
I didn't even come up for air, right into the next composite project.
My original idea was to buy a pre-fabbed carbon fiber or fiberglass c channel for my floor chase and just bond it in. Ha, wishful thinking.
Since I added an additional mechanical compartment in the bottom of the vertical closet (not part of the original design) I needed two chases in the subfloor. One of them needed to be a 90 and the other an offset. It took a bit of time to figure out everything that would need to pass under the floor (electrical, plumbing, water, hydronic) and the exact line size and location of everything. Not to mention ensuring that I had the correct and needed radiuses for the hydronic and water lines that would be passing through the 90 chase.
Design and layout
I couldn't believe how long the routing took. I wish I had a CNC for this one.
I didn't even come up for air, right into the next composite project.
My original idea was to buy a pre-fabbed carbon fiber or fiberglass c channel for my floor chase and just bond it in. Ha, wishful thinking.
Since I added an additional mechanical compartment in the bottom of the vertical closet (not part of the original design) I needed two chases in the subfloor. One of them needed to be a 90 and the other an offset. It took a bit of time to figure out everything that would need to pass under the floor (electrical, plumbing, water, hydronic) and the exact line size and location of everything. Not to mention ensuring that I had the correct and needed radiuses for the hydronic and water lines that would be passing through the 90 chase.
Design and layout
I couldn't believe how long the routing took. I wish I had a CNC for this one.
Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Composite Subfloor Chases - Continued ....
Layup. I overbuilt again because I didn't want any flex in the floor, nor to even feel a change in the density of the floor when walking on these. I laid a 5.7oz 2x2 twill, 24oz plain weave, 8.85oz biaxial and finally another layer of 5.7oz 2x2 twill. These chases are bomber, no flex and I can't detect a change in density.
Final product all cleaned up
Not done yet! Still need to get the heat shield installed on the 90 chase since it will have two hydronic lines passing through it from the Rixen system/coolant loop off of the truck (160-200 degrees).
Since I had extra heat shield that would just go to waist if not used, why not put two layers on. Because of all of the mixed reviews about the adequacy/durability of the adhesive backing on various heat shield products, and high temp spray tach, I decided to epoxy these on so I know they will stay put FOREVER, and EVER. Did I say hopefully forever 😁?
Nope, still not done yet. We gotta bond this bad boy to the main floor.
Layup. I overbuilt again because I didn't want any flex in the floor, nor to even feel a change in the density of the floor when walking on these. I laid a 5.7oz 2x2 twill, 24oz plain weave, 8.85oz biaxial and finally another layer of 5.7oz 2x2 twill. These chases are bomber, no flex and I can't detect a change in density.
Final product all cleaned up
Not done yet! Still need to get the heat shield installed on the 90 chase since it will have two hydronic lines passing through it from the Rixen system/coolant loop off of the truck (160-200 degrees).
Since I had extra heat shield that would just go to waist if not used, why not put two layers on. Because of all of the mixed reviews about the adequacy/durability of the adhesive backing on various heat shield products, and high temp spray tach, I decided to epoxy these on so I know they will stay put FOREVER, and EVER. Did I say hopefully forever 😁?
Nope, still not done yet. We gotta bond this bad boy to the main floor.
Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Composite Subfloor Bonding
I first had to dry fit everything again and shave some edges back to ensure the cabinetry will slide right in when the times come.
Then it was time to bond, and of course everyone was busy/gone, so I had to figure out how to set this thing in place on my own. The back section interlocks inside various walls and the span across the floor is just large enough that it makes it hard to set solo, reach your arms across it while bending over-hence the blocks. My lithium batteries were also put to good use as dead weights.
Various pics during the layup process - back section
Sanding, cleaning, prepping, getting all the pooky down and time for the front section
Another composite item to check off the list
I first had to dry fit everything again and shave some edges back to ensure the cabinetry will slide right in when the times come.
Then it was time to bond, and of course everyone was busy/gone, so I had to figure out how to set this thing in place on my own. The back section interlocks inside various walls and the span across the floor is just large enough that it makes it hard to set solo, reach your arms across it while bending over-hence the blocks. My lithium batteries were also put to good use as dead weights.
Various pics during the layup process - back section
Sanding, cleaning, prepping, getting all the pooky down and time for the front section
Another composite item to check off the list
Vance Vanz
Well-known member
The Sanding Has Begun
I needed a composite fabrication/bonding break, so I decided to do some mindless sanding for a few days.
All of the peel ply (PP) lines, inside and out on the camper, needed to be sanded to ensure that no PP strands/fibers are left behind. Sometimes these things are visible and sometimes you only see them during/after sanding. This is/was one of my first steps in the process of prepping for the final fairing/body work on the camper.
I also did a final check on all of the tabbing, to ensure that I did not miss any other air pockets or structural touch up items that would need to be addressed before the fairing process begins.
I needed a composite fabrication/bonding break, so I decided to do some mindless sanding for a few days.
All of the peel ply (PP) lines, inside and out on the camper, needed to be sanded to ensure that no PP strands/fibers are left behind. Sometimes these things are visible and sometimes you only see them during/after sanding. This is/was one of my first steps in the process of prepping for the final fairing/body work on the camper.
I also did a final check on all of the tabbing, to ensure that I did not miss any other air pockets or structural touch up items that would need to be addressed before the fairing process begins.
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Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Step Box - Structural Fairing & Subfloor
This is the last item of composite work left on the interior of the camper.
I'm super stoked about that!
The back wall of the step box had a rectangular recession in it because of the tabbing that was built up on all four if its sides. Rather than just slap a bunch of fairing material in it, that could become brittle and crack over time, I chose to fill it with some cloth and structural epoxy. I also needed to put some cloth over the core material and structural fill material on the edge of the subfloor, so I decide to just put a piece of cloth across the entire back wall to cover everything up.
Dry fit of the subfloor. I added the subfloor in the step box to dial in the tread heights on the steps a little more. The tread heights on the electric steps are 8" and it is now an 8-1/16" tread height from the top electric step to the step box and 8-13/16" from the step box to the floor in the camper.
Final Layup of everything. Now the back wall only needs a thin layer of fairing material in a few spots. The edge/corner of the back wall and top of the subfloor also came out super sharp/smooth.
This is the last item of composite work left on the interior of the camper.
I'm super stoked about that!
The back wall of the step box had a rectangular recession in it because of the tabbing that was built up on all four if its sides. Rather than just slap a bunch of fairing material in it, that could become brittle and crack over time, I chose to fill it with some cloth and structural epoxy. I also needed to put some cloth over the core material and structural fill material on the edge of the subfloor, so I decide to just put a piece of cloth across the entire back wall to cover everything up.
Dry fit of the subfloor. I added the subfloor in the step box to dial in the tread heights on the steps a little more. The tread heights on the electric steps are 8" and it is now an 8-1/16" tread height from the top electric step to the step box and 8-13/16" from the step box to the floor in the camper.
Final Layup of everything. Now the back wall only needs a thin layer of fairing material in a few spots. The edge/corner of the back wall and top of the subfloor also came out super sharp/smooth.
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Vance Vanz
Well-known member
Camper Shell Exterior Fairings - Mold Making
I'm glad to be starting on one of the last two composite projects for the build. The external fairings are going to take some time to make, but at least I have finally arrived to the party.
The first step is making a mold for them, which I'm doing off of the truck's rocker panels. I better not screw this one up, or I will be needing to repaint the side of my brand new truck.
I'm using a product called Tool Right by Airtech. It has a release film on one side and a sticky backing on the other. The doors on the truck are not exactly straight, nor even, so this should be an interesting process.
After a bit of layout, I pulled the side step off, cleaned the rocker panels, applied the release film and applied plastic/masking tape/box tape to just about everything else to protect the truck. I was also able to get the first layer of cloth down for the mold.
Well there you have it for this recent round of posts, about a month of composite work. It doesn't seem like that amount of work should take a month to complete, but this stuff just takes time. I often feel like I'm in some kind of labor-time-suck-warp when I'm doing composite work.
Until next time!
I'm glad to be starting on one of the last two composite projects for the build. The external fairings are going to take some time to make, but at least I have finally arrived to the party.
The first step is making a mold for them, which I'm doing off of the truck's rocker panels. I better not screw this one up, or I will be needing to repaint the side of my brand new truck.
I'm using a product called Tool Right by Airtech. It has a release film on one side and a sticky backing on the other. The doors on the truck are not exactly straight, nor even, so this should be an interesting process.
After a bit of layout, I pulled the side step off, cleaned the rocker panels, applied the release film and applied plastic/masking tape/box tape to just about everything else to protect the truck. I was also able to get the first layer of cloth down for the mold.
Well there you have it for this recent round of posts, about a month of composite work. It doesn't seem like that amount of work should take a month to complete, but this stuff just takes time. I often feel like I'm in some kind of labor-time-suck-warp when I'm doing composite work.
Until next time!
