2022 Ford F550 - DIY - Adventure Expedition Vehicle Build Thread

Vance Vanz

Well-known member
LINEX - Exterior of Cab & Details on the Cab

I thought I would post a few pics of the back of the cab, while the camper was off the rig, as well as some additional photos of the finished details on the cab. These pics also have better lighting, which shows the black and light grey colors of the LINE-X a little better than previous photos.

IMG_2196.jpegIMG_2198.jpeg

As far as the seams on the doors, on the black lower rocker panels, we played with wrapping the edges just enough so your eye wouldn't see/catch grey when walking past them. We also didn't want to wrap the black too far around the edges of the doors, or into the door jambs. It came out well and looks balanced. These are all the details CeeCee was willing to take the time to address and dial in :love:(y)! It's not easy getting super clean cut lines on LINE-X.

IMG_2199.jpegIMG_2201.jpegIMG_2202.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Vance Vanz

Well-known member
Auxiliary Fuel Tank & Factory Carbon Canister

So, I'm finally getting to some of the modifications/additions to the factory truck/truck chassis. "Why now, this late in the game?" you might ask.

Well, when I purchased the truck brandy new back in 2021, no one had a 50-55 gallon aftermarket fuel tank for a F550 in diesel or gas. The price for a custom tank was outrageous and no one I contacted at the time wanted to build one either. So, I waited.

When one finally came out, I was already up to my neck, or should I say drowning, in carbon fiber composite and body work. As soon as the truck/camper headed to the LINE-X shop, I started sourcing everything that needed to be mounted to the truck/truck's chassis. The first order of business was the additional gas tank. Everything needed to revolve around this.

So here we go............🥳

Factory chassis layout
IMG_2070.jpegIMG_2071.jpeg

Moving in
IMG_2072.jpeg

Semi done
76255815003__1D8FE4C7-9156-4708-86D9-26EB12D8543B.jpeg

Now what do I do with this?
IMG_2083.jpeg

Of course the bottom of the emissions carbon canister is not flat. Why would they make it easy to ditch the factory bracket and just remount the canister to something flat? And of course the bolting pattern/orientation for both sides of the canister is not similar.
IMG_2085.jpeg

😕😕😕😕😕😕🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔.............. I went roundy round on where to mount this thing and how to mount it. I wanted to keep it as high as possible, above the water line, and keep the whole process as simple as possible. Believe it or not, I'm starting to get tired of fabricating things from scratch on this build.

🧐, let's just reuse as much of the factory bracket as possible. A little snipping and then some adding.
IMG_2090.jpegIMG_2219.jpeg

Now I can can mount it to something flat 🤓.

To be continued................., time for bed 😴.
 
Last edited:

Vance Vanz

Well-known member
This jankie website. It stopped sending me update to this thread. Amazing progress, my dude.
Thanks 38snubby 😁. I appreciate it.

We're all in the club of NOT receiving updates on the threads we subscribe to. A lot of the time, I don't even receive updates for my own build thread :LOL:!

Just check in about every two weeks; it's about the max frequency I can post with the amount of hours I'm putting in on this beast (y).
 

Vance Vanz

Well-known member
Auxiliary Fuel Tank & Factory Carbon Canister - Continued......

Someone inspired me to post a little sooner than I normally would.

Finally landed on a good spot for the canister 🤓🥳!!

A little welding here
IMG_2094.jpeg
IMG_2261.jpeg

Some fabrication there
IMG_2218.jpeg

And a whole lotta dry fitting everywhere
IMG_2232.jpegIMG_2238.jpegIMG_2239.jpeg
IMG_2223.jpeg76411946899__4E727345-D1C7-4CD1-8CDC-E86B7D6C8610.jpeg

Well....., let's not forget about the onboard air! We might as well get that sorted while we're playing and making: brackets, brackets and more 😋😛🙃😝😜🤪 brackets.............🤯!
 
Last edited:

Vance Vanz

Well-known member
ARB Onboard Air System

Let's get it all out and sorted.
IMG_2113.jpeg

Another part/aftermarket system that I have to ditch all of the factory provided electrical wiring and connectors, because they are sized too small. Don't you love paying lot's of money for components on expensive systems that you can't use and/or have to throw away ☹️😣😖😫?
IMG_2140.jpeg

Back to those da(😡)mn brackets.
IMG_2224.jpegIMG_2227.jpegIMG_2229.jpeg
I drilled some additional holes for mounting routing electrical wires and airlines as well. Don't want that to be an afterthought :oops:🤬!​
With limited space under one of the last available factory-chassis-cross members at the back of the truck (highest cross members on the truck-to stay above the water line), real-estate was tight. I wanted to get the canister and the ARB compressor mounted at/on this single cross member (behind the cab). All other available locations to mount both of these items, put these two items at least 8-10"s lower in height.
IMG_2234.jpegIMG_2240.jpegIMG_2243.jpegIMG_2246.jpeg
The placement of the canister/compressor (at/by the gully in the top of the tank) allows for a perfect path for the vent lines on the canister, and the electrical wires/air lines on the compressor, to be routed over/through the gas tank and to/along the chassis rail. Also, the air inlets for the ARB compressor (that you can see in the above pic) will also get 90's and short nipples to increase the height of the inlets. This will put them just above the top of the chassis frame (37.5-38"). My water line is 34", a 1/2" or so below the bottom of the doors, so I'm trying to keep everything at 37-38" minimum off the ground. These are all of the layout and fitment details that take so much time to consider and figure out, but make the install so much smoother 😎!​
IMG_2253.jpeg
There is plenty of clearance from the exhaust and driveline and the canister/compressor are also easily accessible for service if needed. Although the compressor could be installed in a more water tight location (like under the hood. I tried, no room), the whole front side of it is protected by the bracket for the canister. It's also tucked up tight enough (under the camper and between the chassis rails) that it should, hopefully, be fine from the elements.​
 
Last edited:

Vance Vanz

Well-known member
Heating & Free Heat System - Rixen

Let's just keep rolling on BRACKETS!!!!

For all of these systems that I'm currently going through, it's not just the mounting/brackets that I'm figuring out. I'm going through the entire system, any and all elements of the system that I have not already sorted/finalized. This includes where and how it will be mounted, fabrication, material/hardware, electrical (sizing/wire/fusing/terminals/loom), fuel/vent/air/water/etc.-lines, fittings, sealers..............., etc. You get the idea! I'm finalizing and sourcing EVERYTHING, so I am basically 100% ready for the install (when it comes time for the install).

This is what I have been doing while the rig/camper have been at the LINE-X shop and the interior paint shop. As soon as I come up for air, after getting one system complete, I dive right into the next one. It's a bit BONKERS 🤪 how long the design and layout, alone, can take, not to mention the time finding, pricing and sourcing all of the parts. After all of this, there are also several (hopefully not many) rounds of dry fitting and re-adjusting (if needed).

And the reward for all of this hard work and seeing everything dry fit (2-3times)...........?, take it all apart, put it back in the boxes and wait for the final install 🙃😣😫............... 😆. Prototype builds are MADNESS............., especially when you are basically doing it alone 🤣. Oooh Man; I'm pissing myself right now 😂, about how much time all of this takes and how absurd it can feel at times!!!!

"Just keep moving forward" 🤕🫡.

Rixen System (Outside of camper components):

Pulling everything out
IMG_2193.jpeg

This is where the outside components will be mounted
IMG_2183.jpegIMG_2215.jpeg

Espar, plate exchanger & fuel pump
IMG_2190.jpeg

A little DIY CAD
IMG_2211.jpeg

Snap your fingers three times............... and it magically appears!
IMG_2302.jpeg

Did I mention about the process of dry fitting yet :)? (#1)
IMG_2310.jpeg

(#2 &3)
IMG_2313.jpeg

(#4)
IMG_2319.jpeg
 

Vance Vanz

Well-known member
Heating & Free Heat System - Rixen - Continued......

Getting the electrical, air intake and exhaust routed and dialed in, as well as drilling all of the holes in the chassis for mounting any/all lines (#6)
IMG_2325.jpeg

It's hard to see in the pic, because of the lighting, but I was stoked to be able to tuck the end of the air intake behind the bracket, which basically creates a little protective tube around the intake. This will help cut down on the dust/dirt/debris/elements reaching the inlet.
IMG_2327.jpeg

It was late, so I called it a night, but I had a little whisper that I couldn't put my finger on. The next morning I woke up and said "That fuel pump is not in the best spot! Although......, it is: in a good spot for serviceability, tucked up high enough, technically protected and the chances of something catching it are veeery slim! BUUUUUUUUUUT, there is still a chance that a branch and/or stout bush could catch the pump/fuel line, given the right 4x4 angle on the truck when the stars and moon align once every millennium!"

Sooooooo, it was decided (begrudgingly 😤), to move the da(😠)mn fuel pump 😁.

Roundy-round 🤔, Roundy-round 🤔, Roundy-round 🤔 and 💡🤓! "Mount it right next to all of the other fuel pumps, where you will be able to still access/service it when the camper is on." "Yes it will fit; just try harder and make it fit! Don't be lazy; this is not that kind of build!"

Factory fuel pump, Aux. fuel tank pump and Espar Rixen fuel pump. My little fuel pump farm.
IMG_2336.jpeg

Still serviceable from the ground/bottom side when the camper is on.
IMG_2337.jpeg

I can also route the fuel line with the existing factory fuel lines (Bonus).
IMG_2340.jpeg

It may take me awhile, but I'll get there eventually!

I also laid out and drilled several mounting holes down the chassis rail for mounting fuel fill/vent lines, as well as the coolant lines for the Rixen system (before the camper gets permanently set). I'm still not sure If I will be running the lines on the chassis rail, or the bottom of the camper. There are pros and cons for both, so I need to chew on it a little more. The holes also got some primer and paint (not shown).
IMG_2208.jpegIMG_2260.jpeg

One last piece of info that may be helpful to someone before we move away from the Rixen system (any system using the vehicles coolant/radiator for free heating). I was chatting with the neighboring build shop, when they were doing work on the ER (and it's heating/free-heat system). We started chatting about Pros and Cons of where to place the free-heat plate exchanger (Plate exchanger connected to the vehicles radiator/coolant loop).

One school of thought is to keep the vehicle to free-heat plate exchanger loop as short as possible. Meaning, mounting the free-heat plate exchanger as close to the vehicle's factory loop as possible (Basically, under the hood/at the engine). This minimizes the effect on the factory loop as much as possible and reduces the length of the coolant lines and number of fittings that could be susceptible to leaks. These are all Pros for a shorter factory vehicle loop (vehicle to free-heat plate exchanger).

A Con of this set-up is when you are not using free heating (coolant from the vehicle), and are using the Rixen Espar heater (in my build case) for heating (using fuel from your vehicle’s gas tank to supply/feed the Rixen Espar heater). With the free-heat plate exchanger being at the front of the vehicle (smaller free-heat loop), the heating loop is now longer. You now have to heat a longer loop when using fuel from your vehicle. Maybe not a big deal during the summer months, but if stationary during the dead of winter, you are now heating longer exposed lines (to the front of the vehicle).

The second school of thought is to put the free-heat plate exchanger at the back of the vehicle, or as close to the heater as possible (Rixen Espar heater for my build). The Pro of this setup is the heating loop is as short as possible and you heat a shorter loop when stationary (save on fuel). The Con is you have longer coolant lines and possibly more fittings in your vehicles factory loop, which could result in a leak and affect the vehicles factory coolant system (No coolant in your vehicle means no Drivey, Drivey and No Overlandy, Overlandy 😊)

I know this is all a bit wordy and unfortunately, NO, a diagram will not be included. Unless, someone else is feeling spunky 😁!

Yes, we could add more plate exchangers and pumps to the mix and start talking about multiple options and scenarios, but I'm keeping this related to just the use of free-heat from the vehicle.

I appreciated the conversation with my neighbors and it got me thinking about the question we often ask, "What is the BEST method?" Of course, the answer is often/always "It depends!" It also got me thinking about how we may do things without fully knowing why we are doing it the way we are doing it. After explaining what I was doing on my build, I had the ability/courage to ask them if they would do it differently, if they were building my build. Their answer was yes and I appreciated it.

My neighbors like the shorter free-heat loop to minimize the chances that the vehicle's factory loop could experience an issue. They were also mostly basing this off of seeing many shi(@&@&)tty installs. I agree with their points, but I prefer a longer free heat loop and a shorter heating loop.

Personally, If I'm going to tap into the factory system for free heating, I'm going to maximize the amount of free heating I can get. I'm also a meticulous when it comes to building something, so I'm not worried about a sloppy install (The type of install where an unprotected/improperly routed coolant line would be rubbing on the factory chassis, or some other object it should not be rubbing on). In addition, mounting my plate exchanger at the back of the vehicle resulted in the same number of fittings I would have had to use if I mounted it close-ish to the engine.

This is all just food for thought and I wanted to take the time to mention it since it happened during my dry-fitting-fun of the Rixen system. There is also one other addition I made/will install in my free-heat loop based upon previous experience of running this system in other builds, but no time to cover it now.

Enough Build-Threading for today. It is time for some Din Din and then back to designing the rear bumper/winch mount/spare tire carrier Combo and the rear roof ladder 😳😫🤯!

✌️
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
189,575
Messages
2,918,452
Members
232,571
Latest member
Psyph
Top