Actually, a guy from Canada, Alex Tripunov, contacted me on a Fuso Facebook page and said he could open it up, check it out and reprogram it. He deals with JDM imports and has the software to do the work. The service manager at the shop is supposed to be calling him about this option. I also talked to the service manager about a used ecu. He had tried one which had the number 4d34tB on it. Mine has 4d34tA on it. He said he has since learned that it needs a 4d34ta ecu in order to work. There is a used ecu on eBay with the number 4d34ta on it so that may also be worth a try.
99 FG Starts, runs rough, won't rev up
- Thread starter kerry
- Start date
SkiFreak
Crazy Person
Given that your problems seems to be intermittent, my thinking is still towards a bad electrical connection somewhere.
I am no electronics guru, by any means, but confirming that your existing ECU is functioning correctly would be where I would be focusing my attention at this time.
If this guy Alex can diagnose your ECU, that sounds like a good direction to take.
I am no electronics guru, by any means, but confirming that your existing ECU is functioning correctly would be where I would be focusing my attention at this time.
If this guy Alex can diagnose your ECU, that sounds like a good direction to take.
I was told they had their best electrical guy on it a couple of months ago prior to calling in the tech from Mitsubishi so I'm assuming they've checked the harness. (but I don't know). I decided to purchase the used (and tested?) ecu so they can swap it in and see if it works. If it does I'll send my original ecu off for a rebuild and have a spare. If it doesn't I'll still send the original out for diagnosis and repair. The service manager seemed to prefer this rather than sending the original one out for rebuilding as he thought it might take a while to get that done. This seemed like a very odd concern since they've had the truck since last April and haven't been in a hurry to get it diagnosed and fixed. As a side note, I do have the shop manual for the truck which I got from someone here 10+ years ago. It doesn't have any info on the ecu. I don't know if this is because I got an incomplete version (it starts with 1996 but has updates through 2001)or whether there was a completely separate manual for the ecu.
I wasn't expecting that detail. I can't even find a diagram of how it is wired into the harness or where it is located.
I delivered the used (and claimed to be tested) ecu with 4d34ta on it to the shop today. The bay supplier had written on it FE 99-2004. I was surprised at how bulky it is. Where exactly is it installed? Fingers crossed. The truck has been in the shop so long, the work order was yellowed and fragile like something out of a medieval library. In fact, the service manager said that it's been there so long, we don't have to pay the current hourly labor rate but the rate that was in effect when we first took it there.
I am having a random CEL come on with no power. Not going into limp mode where you can still drive under reduced power, but zero RPM response from throttle input. I have been reading every thread I can find on causes and remedies and I found one thread where the owner replaced just about every electrical sensor, cam tensioner, cleaned grounds, ran jumper wires for suspect circuits, and cleaned most connectors, but what seemed to be the fix was cleaning all of the electrical connectors that connect the frame/engine harness to the body harness. I just wonder if this gets overlooked a lot of times. The owner in that thread did state that he found corrosion there and cleaning them seemed to fix his issues.
These are the connections between the body (ECM) and the powertrain from a 2005 Fuso. These connections are 21 years old and even older in your case Kerry. Just think about what havoc it would mean if even one or two of these connections has a bit of corrosion and what that would do to the vehicle's computer. For me, before testing and replacing any sensors I would thoroughly clean every ground and every connector and reassembly with dialectic grease.
SkiFreak
Crazy Person
Given that it is quite painful and time consuming depinning connectors, plus the fact you can really screw up things if you reassemble them incorrectly, one in place option is to use a vinegar and salt solution in cup to dissolve any corrosion from the terminals, followed up by using another cup with a bicarb soda solution to neutralize the acid. I normally do a rinse with clean water after cleaning with the vinegar, then do the bicarb thing.
If you want to go further, you can use something like MG Chemicals liquid tin, which will add a coating of tin to the cleaned terminals, which will further reduce the possibility of future corrosion occurring. I should add, this stuff is not what I would consider cheap, but in this instance, you get what you pay for.
And as mentioned, if you use some dielectric grease when reinstalling, that will also be beneficial.
I know it should be common sense, but obviously you need to fully dry the connectors before adding the dielectric grease and reassembling them.
If you want to go further, you can use something like MG Chemicals liquid tin, which will add a coating of tin to the cleaned terminals, which will further reduce the possibility of future corrosion occurring. I should add, this stuff is not what I would consider cheap, but in this instance, you get what you pay for.
And as mentioned, if you use some dielectric grease when reinstalling, that will also be beneficial.
I know it should be common sense, but obviously you need to fully dry the connectors before adding the dielectric grease and reassembling them.
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