99 Suburban Slow Build

jimed43

jimed43

Adventurer
cyclic said:
I did the 4 beam high beam mod on mine (99 Tahoe) and it works great. I used a factory underdash brake controller harness for a 99+ truck, took it apart and inserted the wires into a blank relay spot in my fuse box. Added on fuse holder and tied the wires into the headlight harness right next to the fuse box. Looks COMPLETELY factory, uses a factory relay and works great. It took a little work getting into the fuse box, and a little planning to get everything right the first try. I can't be happier.
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Does this fix my hazy headlights? Should I order new ones? Or do I have the car wash restore them?
 
K

k9lestat

Expedition Leader
ill see if i cant post a pict later but i used the 3m lens restoration kit. worked like a champ took about 10 minutes per light.
 
C

cyclic

Adventurer
Headlights just need polished. The best solution is buying the actual GLASS headlight housings but they aren't cheap. Best/easiest is polishing what you have.

My mod allowed the low beams and high beams to be on at the same time. VERY bright output, but only when there is no traffic.

Fuel filter is extremely easy, its mounted on the drivers side inside the frame well. A couple of wrenches to take the fittings loose and change it.
 
C

cyclic

Adventurer
k9lestat said:
i also have a 99 burb, stock, however i thought ask a question here and see if some one could answer this for me and well as the original poster. i recently purchased a roof top tent and want to put it on the burb. will the factory rack handle the weight of the two man tent plus a person. i know the cross bars are crap but what about the main rails. can they handle it?
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I'd go with a utility type trailer and make a rack that holds the tent at a height that matches the top of your roof to improve air flow. Kinda like this IMG_7302.jpg

Having something above the roof on a suburban really kills your mileage, makes lots of noise, and can make it seem really top heavy.
 
jimed43

jimed43

Adventurer
Any reason to change to 17 inch rims other than more choices in rims?

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 
aardvarcus

aardvarcus

Adventurer
The only things changing to 17s will let you do is the ball joint/ upper control arm flip or upgrade to larger brake rotors. It is mainly just a looks thing. One thing to keep in mind is most “expedition style” rigs usually have a full size spare with matching rim and sometimes a trailer with matching rims, so just keep in mind you may be eventually wanting more than just 4 wheels and tires. Me personally, I like the looks of some of the newer stock alloy wheels. I picked up 2 sets of the 2007.5-10 8 lug 17” chevy wheels for my 2002 2500HD, so I have enough for the truck and one day the spare and a trailer.
 
C

cyclic

Adventurer
I'm super slow building a 88 Suburban. I just picked up a set of 17" for it. Mainly because a bunch of heavy duty trucks run the 265/70R17 tires. It gives a tire height of 31 to 32 inches when installed. Perfect for my 3.73 gears. I can find take off tires fairly cheap, and new ones are easy to find. As they stated, a little more room for the ball joint flip, and future larger brakes. I'm doing it mostly for the size and availability of the tires. Another advantage is it lowers sideway flex, makes you truck drive and track better. Without being so stiff that it rides like crap.
 
plumber mike

plumber mike

Adventurer
Interesting idea. I don't think it would be less safe unless the ball joint itself was placed at an extreme angle. If the bolts break in the stock location it would still be disastrous.

Thanks for the link.
 
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