? about adj. short arms

[stoneydude]

Hi,
I am planning on buying another zj soon. I loved my first one but I had to sell it after I lost my job a year or so ago to help pay the bills. Now that I have a job again I'm going back to the zj. My immediate plans are to fit 31's and maybe an aussie in the rear. Nothing big and crazy, just a little more height to do a lil exploring here in Texas with my gf and labs.
I'm thinking OME coils and 1" spacers with some minor cosmetic surgery to fit them. So here is my question, i know adj track bars are a must but what about adjustable control arms?
With 2" of lift I know they aren't a must but I want to have the best flex possible. Which brand is the best bang for the buck? Terraflex, RE, Jks all seem to be the same except for their flex joints. What would ya'll choose?

 

[Stumpalump]

Two are good and the rest transmit too much twist to the mounts. Stock because they have soft rubber bushings and the metal is designed to flex like a torsion spring and JKS because they have that great pivot action that nobody else does and nice big rubber bushings. Problem is is that the time you buy 4 JKS arms you are close to a long arm kit and they ride perfect. The stock arms may be too short but only if you don't like the castor. In my opinion castor is a personal preference. Your short arms will reduce the castor giving you quick easy turning on the slow stuff and in parking lots. More castor or in your case longer arms will give you more castor for a better freeway feel. I like way less castor in everthing I drive except a tow vehicle. Try it and see if you like how it handles befor you spend the money on arms. Put an angle finder on the flat spot on the top of your ball joint to read the castor angle. Park 180 degrees and measure again. Find the middle and thats your castor angle.
Harbor freight also has one of these angle finders for 5 bucks.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Dial-Angle-Finder-Magnetic-Base/dp/B002SJVH62"]Amazon.com: 2 3/4" Dial Angle Finder w/o Magnetic Base (1 Each): Industrial & Scientific[/ame]

Next you do the simple tape measure trick for the toe adjustment and never pay an alignment shop again.

 

[ExpoMike]

With a 2" lift, I seriously doubt you "need" to replace the arms. That said, JKS hands down. Stock type rubber mounts which won't transmit vibration/noise and a pivot system which allows adjustability and mad flex without binding. The only reason I don't have them in my upper arms is that I got a deal on the RE super ride and didn't need them to be adjustable.

 

[stoneydude]

Would this be a better bang for the buck kit? http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_zj_4.html

 

[ExpoMike]

Likely wouldn't be bad... if you throw away the shocks! The rest of it is similar to a RE style kit but as with RE's super flex, the ride will be a little rougher/noisier with that style of joint. Shocks, either Bilstein (my recommendation) or OME.

 

[stoneydude]

Would you recommend the 5100's or 5150's?

 

[wADVr]

JKS for ride quality but they're expensive. With only 2" or so lift you could probably adjust your caster with the factory mount adjustments (if even necessary) and call it good with the factory arms. I dont beleive that you will see a big enough difference to warrent their necessity. That said i would think about changing them out eventually for peice of mind of having stronger CAs. I have seen RE super ride arms (rubber bushings both ends) provide enough flex to max out other aspects of the suspension.

Having ran several different shocks I am sold on the Bilsteins. IMO they provide soft enough dampening to not hinder the 'around town' ride but really shine when pushed. But I also think OME's shocks are way to soft.

 

[Stumpalump]

Would you recommend the 5100's or 5150's?

They are the same shock but one has a resevoir so it runs cooler and holds more oil. That means it will not fade on a 10 mile fast bumpy trail as fast and the extra oil will make it last longer. If you plan to beat it hard for long periods then the 5150 are better but for most it does not matter. What does matter is that you get the one with the right length and right valving. Even the Bilstein catolog will show what fits and not what the best valving is. To get that you need to call Bilstein. Their tech suport guys are real good at giving you valve specs for your vehicle and weight. Match that up first with the length and shock ends you need to bolt up and then worry about the extra resivoir. Call one or more of their tech guys and you will have the best: http://www.bilsteinus.com/about-bilstein/contact.html
The collapst lenth is what you need to find out. Pretend your rubber bumpstops will be flattend all the way when you measure. All the way flat as in metal on metal.

 

[ExpoMike]

Really it depends on your use/needs. The faster you go over rough areas, the more you will want a reservoir shock. I have been running 5100's for 4 years and have zero complaints. Since I don't do "pre-running" type driving, 5150's are a little overkill.

YMMV