Add one more Cherokee...

troy

Adventurer
It's been a while since I've looked at this thread. Jeep looks great!

I was reading through the old posts and it didn't say if you picked up your H4 conversion lights yet.

If you haven't, I'm with XJMike on the Hella E-codes. I bought mine as a kit with bulbs and dust boots. I went with the 60/55W Xneon bulbs. The e-codes are great and the hella housings are very high quality. I have not upgraded the wiriing, but the improvement was significant. Probably the best $100 I've spent on the Jeep. I have 3 vehicles in the garage at the moment that i replaced the sealed beams with these kits.

Here is where I got mine:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=744
 
While looking at my pictures, I noticed something is wrong. I haven't looked into it too deeply yet, but if someone knows what's going on here...

It's the driver's side front.
DSCF2007.jpg
 

troy

Adventurer
Looks like the breather tube for the front diff. On my '98 it is a black hose with a small platic breather (like in your pic) that is zip tied to the the firewall or something close.

Yours was probably tight after the lift and pulled one of the zip ties loose.
 
Looks like the breather tube for the front diff. On my '98 it is a black hose with a small platic breather (like in your pic) that is zip tied to the the firewall or something close.

Yours was probably tight after the lift and pulled one of the zip ties loose.

That was gonna be my first guess, just wanted to be sure. Thanks troy. :victory:

Oh, and I replaced my headlights a couple months ago. I didn't think it was a big enough deal to put it in the thread, tho. I just went with Sylvania SilverStars. $45 for the pair, and it's 100% better. They cast a nice bright white beam, so I'm pretty happy with them. They were what the wallet could afford at the time, since one of them got busted on a tumbleweed the size of a volkswagen.
 
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ExpoMike

Well-known member
Yep, front diff vent. Normally zip tied to the upper control arm.

Rig is looking good! Glad you kept the 16" wheels. That's what I have and are by far my favorite OEM Jeep wheels.
 

GTABurnout

Explorer
Looks good man. I like the 16's as well I bet they ride better then a Steel wheel as well. Good to see you took apart the leaf pack to ensure no squeeking, mine were bad. The jeep also sold to a Vegas guy so he is now enjoying your EX-Lift.

I will continue to follow this build as you want the samething I wanted out of my cherokee...
 
Good to see you took apart the leaf pack to ensure no squeeking, mine were bad.

Yeah, I definitely learned my lesson from the other packs. That, and I went with rubber bushings instead of poly this time. (What the Hell was I thinking?!) The difference is astounding.

The jeep also sold to a Vegas guy so he is now enjoying your EX-Lift.

A well-traveled kit. :ylsmoke:
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Yeah, I definitely learned my lesson from the other packs. That, and I went with rubber bushings instead of poly this time. (What the Hell was I thinking?!) The difference is astounding.

Yep, dumping the poly bushings most likely made 95% of the difference. I never run poly in joints that have any twisting motion. Too much binding.
 
I have a (maybe more than) slight vibration at the gas pedal. Now, before I get the whole "SYE" spiel, don't worry, I'm on it. I just have to wait until I can spend the dough. For now, I have a transfer case spacer and 2* caster wedges installed so the vibes aren't so harsh. At first, it was smooth as butter. Lately, as I've been accelerating from a stand-still, the gas pedal vibrates a bit until I hit 15mph or so. Once I get going, the vibes stop. Unless I go over a dip, and when rear axle gets closer to the body, I get a short burst of vibration. You can't hear anything, just feel it. I wonder if my U-joints are starting to ache due to the lackluster attention to the driveline angles. If someone has had this problem before, and it isn't the U-joints, humor me?

NP242 TC, 245/75R16, 8.25
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Yep, U-joints going would be the first thing I would say based on your description. It doesn't take a long time to kill joints when not setup correctly. Since you need to do a SYE and will need a different driveshaft, not a whole lot of sense changing U-joints unless your SYE is WAY down the road.
 

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