Advice Needed: Trip to Baja (Mar 07)

[60seriesguy]

I was invited to a tentative trip to Baja in March '07. I don't have all the details yet, but I didn't sleep last night thinking about the possibilities. I've never been down there, and barring travel time to and from San Diego, we'll have about a week in Baja. Years ago I bought a book on Baja camping, which I re-read last night, and I'm starting to think that a week, with families (small children), might keep us confined to Baja California Norte.

I have a lot of questions but having a hard time getting them organized. So I'll start by asking advice from Scott and BajaTaco and the other experienced Baja adventurers on the board.

What's a reasonable route for seven days in Baja, with families? Is reaching Guerrero Negro out of the question? Bahia De los Angeles?

Any recommended books, articles or websites?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dave Bennett]

I'm interested in this as well, I would love to make the trip down but have heard ALOT of horror stories about crooked federales etc...

 

[justfred]

I love Baja. I've been going there all my life, mostly to the area south of San Felipe.

A few years back, I took a trip to the tip, in a 1965 Land Rover 109, right-hand-drive, soft top. I'm sure I have pictures somewhere but the only ones I could find are these:
http://www.obtainium.org/gallery/9511_baja

I'm one of those people that feels like most of Baja is safer than the US. Sure, there are federales, young punk kids with machine guns; and crooked cops. But if you speak a little Spanish, don't act like an arrogant gringo, don't take anything that might be prohibited (no guns at all, no drugs of course, no expensive items, mellow on the overtly military gear) you should be fine.

In a modern rig, you could make it to the tip and back, but you'd be mostly driving. GN or Bay of LA should certainly be doable. Most of the major paved roads are about like a backcountry neglected 2-lane would be here, doable in any vehicle. The dirt highways tend to be washboard and will beat the hell out of you and your vehicle, but I do like the back road from (can't find my map at the moment) central Norte near Catavina to Puertocitos via Gonzaga Bay.

Gas is hard to find. Fill up wherever you find a station. Magna Sin is like standard unleaded here. Not sure how the prices compare to here lately, but I imagine they're about the same if not more. If you get less than 250 miles to a tank, bring a spare tank; but that said I made it with a 125 mile range and a few 2-galloners. Bring lots of spare water; 20 gallons wouldn't be too excessive if you're camping. Buy beer and liquor (I suggest Negro Modelo and Herradura, respectively) in Mexico; bring your water and all your other food with you because the grocery stores suck. Bottled water is fine to drink, as is water in most but not all restaurants. Most restaurants are fine to eat in; some are great, some are filthy scary.

AAA has a great map and a great book. Topos are really hard to find, tho there's one guy that does them if you can find him.

Get insurance. It may keep you out of jail if you have an accident. Don't have an accident! Drive slow - slower than the speed limit if you can stand it. Yes, it's really slow - why are you in such a hurry, gringo?

I'd (slowly) blow through Tijuana and Ensenada. Stop for lunch in Rosarita area. Aim for San Quintin for the first night. The rocks around Catavina are cool. GN seemed like a dump to me, but I guess there are whale watching tours around there. The east coast - San Felipe - is great, I tend to like it better than the ocean side. Haven't been to Bay of LA but I hear it's one of those "end of the road" sorts of places where people who go where the road leads them, drive to, end up, look around, and decide to stay.

I'd say you'd be better off not having an agenda, just spend half your time going south, and half north. I grew up in El Centro, so I'd tend to come home through Mexicali - maybe you can shower at my parent's house - maybe not.

Have fun!

 

[Ursidae69]

I hope I can make a trip in this time frame too. I want to see the whales again. Anyway, to answer your question, here are my 2 cents. The family aspect with smaller kids will mean more frequent stops, so less miles covered. I'd suggest not going in through San Diego/TJ, but through Mexicali. Something like:
Day 1: El Centro California to San Felipe
Day 2: Drive to Gonzaga Bay
Day 3: Stay in Gonzaga, relax
Day 4: Drive to Bay of LA
Day 5: Stay in Bay of LA, relax
Day 6: Drive back to Gonzaga Bay
Day 7: Drive back to El Centro

Driving down the eastern coast is awesome, fewer people, more remote. When I take highway 1 from San Diego I don't even think about stopping until I'm at El Rosario or further south. Just too developed for my tastes.

If you don't have it already, you should buy a Baja Almanac. Hmm, just checked their site and they are sold out. Bummer, hope you have one already. Also, the Baja Nomad board is a good resource for Baja research.

 

[LexusAllTerrain]

If you go in thru Mexicali, like suggested before this is what you will encounter to the south.

http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=viewAllPhotos&albumID=549866025&security=ZhcOND

 

[ChuckB]

This is an awesome thread! Would love to make a Baja trip, but it isn't going to happen for a while...

 

[Scott Brady]

I will form a detailed response when I get home from Oahu.

I have a nice loop that you would enjoy, and will show you most of the Ecosystems in the North.

Basically, a loop from Tecate down to Valle Trinidad, Mike's Sky, Meling Ranch, San Martir Range, then down to Gonzaga and back up through San Felipe and Mexicali.

 

[flywgn]

I know the route that Scott will outline for you and it will be a wonderful week-long trip. My only addition is that on your return trip up the east coast take plenty of time to look backwards. IMHO the best views are looking south and sometimes paying too much attention to the rocks and ruts of the road can detract from rubber-necking.

We're down there frequently as we have a house at Punta Bufeo and use it as 'base camp' for trips further south.

Gas is not all that hard to find. If you go south on the east coast, top off in San Felipe. The new station in Puertecitos (notice the spelling) just might be open by next March. The lights were turned on when I came north yesterday. There is gas at the Pemex station at Rancho Grande and if it's out, then the store on the west side will sell you some.

El Rosario has a Pemex station. When you get to Laguna Salada (junction of Hwy 1 and 5) there's a restaurant and tire shop but no gas. Gas can usually be found at the intersection of Hwy 1 and the Bahia de Los Angeles roads, otherwise plan on filling up at Rancho Grande on the way north.

The country is as safe as anywhere else in North America. There were several shootings in Phoenix during the three days I was gone last week.

I don't recommend driving at night. Not because of fear of persons, but livestock roam about and often appear out of nowhere. Then too, if you're on the main Hwy 1--Transpeninsula Hwy--headlights can be blinding and enormous potholes loom without warning. Some of those holes deserve their own ZIP Codes.

Take plenty of water along. It's a desert peninsula.

There's much more to add to a list of necessities. Maybe as your ETD comes closer you might want to update.

I've taken the liberty of dropping a couple of photos at the bottom.

Allen Russell
Prescott AZ (for the time being )

 

[60seriesguy]

Allen, how's diesel availability throughout that loop? I have about a 1,000 range on the highway but estimate this range to drop up to 25% when driving dirt roads and heavily loaded. So let's day 750 mile range, maybe another 200 miles out of the two jerry cans. All the other vehicles on the expedition will be gasoline powered.

 

[60seriesguy]

Also, one more question. I'm assuming I won't be taking a boat with me, maybe a kayak. I've been doing some research on fishing from the surf, any tips people on this forum want to share? Any particular tackle to bring or bait to source?

 

[ChuckB]

Also interested in the Diesel availiblity...

Anyone do some surfing when you go south?

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

Henry, I like Scott's route because you'd see parts of Baja not many experience (pine forests!). However, I wouldn't miss Bahia de los Angeles, which is possibly the most beautiful seascape on the peninsula. That is as far south as I'd go in seven days, and plenty far enough to experience Baja fully. If L.A.Bay is crowded you can head 20 miles south to Bahia las Animas, much more remote.

I've never fished on the Pacific side. For subsistence fishing while sea kayaking on the Sea of Cortez coast I always take a light spinning setup with ten-pound line, and a bunch of Kastmaster lures. This almost always nets a few rock bass if you cast off rocky shores. They're delicious.

 

[awalter]

Tourist cards & Insurance are a must.

Pot holes (chasms) seem to be a thing of the past on Mex 1. I've made 3 trips as far south as San Ignacio in the past 3 months & don't recall hitting any. The roads up the east coast are another story.

There are some good surfing spots, but all are on the Pacific.

Most all Pemex stations now carry diesel.

Don't be afraid to shop in the local Mercado's. The larger ones are well stocked & items are very recognizable.

Fuel prices are running about $2.40 per gallon for unleaded & $1.90 a gallon for diesel.

If surf fishing, no license required. From a kayak or panga, a license is required.

 

[Scott Brady]

Diesel is at nearly all of the Pemex stations now in Baja. Remote fuel (in small villages) may be more difficult.

 

[flywgn]

Yep, diesel easy to find. I also have a diesel. They don't have it at the Pemex station in Rancho Grande, but the store on the other side of the road (the 'Rodriguez' Store) has it.

The potholes with ZIP Codes I am referring to are on the stretch from Km54 to Puertecitos on Hwy 5.

I concur about stopping at the locals. There are several 'cantinas' south of San Felipe that are good. Our favorite is the little one on the east side of the road at Playa Cristina about 5 miles south of Puertecitos. There's a sign designating it. Cow Patty's at the north end of Puertecitos is okay, but you can count on beverages only. They often run out of hot dogs (yep, hot dogs) and burritos. Alfonsina's has good food (Bahia San Luis Gonzaga); so does the restaurant at Punta Bufeo (Sra. Francisca doesn't like the designation 'cantina') but they are not always open. Heck, if we're in residence when you come by in March we can offer you a cold one and a tortilla. :beer: :lurk: Afterall, trout season in ID won't be open yet.

Allen R.