AmboVan Restarted

[hobietony]

The rig is looking great! Seems like you like that DPTuner, I know I love mine and can't take it off that 80hp setting LOL, no way its going back to stock. About your a/c, the only thing I found that will cool that big ol' box in 100*+ temps is a roof top a/c or similar. I tried making the rear a/c work for weeks and it just can't keep up, even after basicly rebuilding the whole a/c and getting it to work perfectly, the front works great but the rear just doesnt have the capacity to handle all that space at those temps. I finally decided to copy the big rv's and installed the roof top 13,500but unit and let it run off generator cruising down the road just like the big rv's do. I installed an automatic switch so all we have to do is plug in shore power and it goes from generator to shore automaticly and charges my batteries driving down the road.

I figure I at least have to have the system functional before I get the AC charged, but yes, I agree that the big hammer solution is going to have the rooftop AC going. I put in 2 big 4d batteries, and a 2000 zantrex inverter, so I think that the AC will work off that while I am driving, without having to run a genny.

Otherwise, I havent heard any good reason to keep that diode hooked up, so out it goes.

 

[sdski]

I was thinking it stops the flow below a certain voltage the keep the batt from going dead, but just a theory

Could be, but generally the cutoff is pretty low on those, like .5V or so I think. I think you'd already be screwed at that point...

Sounds like extra weight to me, I'd say pull it if its in the way and I'm sure theres somewhere that has a better use for it. Who knows what the 12V outlet was for, maybe there was something they would plug into it that could have another power source (backup battery or something).

This ambulance is looking awesome. You were among the few people who got me looking at ambulances, and I was real close to buying one before deciding it was just a little more work than I had time for right now. This is a great build though, I'll pick one up someday...

 

[r_w]

The diode could make a budget isolator, especially for something like a jumppack. It would tricklecharge the pack when running and prevent a backdrain when parked. Probably not something you need in this rig, but somebody else might.

 

[Meekerfam]

depending on direction of flow could have been for charging/batt maintenance the vehicle. most ambulances are built to be pluged in when not running to maintain power for the rigs equipment/systems.

flip side, could have been used to supply another vehicle/ device that if running could have back flowed the system. (rigs power supply used as start up and to boost aux unit)

 

[Ozrockrat]

What is this, and what does it do?

Yes, I see it says 'doide'. It was run off a main power supply, and fed a 12 volt outlet. Why not just a fuse? (although it is a fused supply) Does this protect the battery from running down? Seems odd that it just fed a single outlet...

It looks like a Zener diode used to prevent spikes back into the system. Possibly had something with a series motor on the load side (maybe a vac pump for sucking blood up, mine still has one in place)

Now these are just guesses based on my electronics experience from 2'decades ago.

 

[hobietony]

Lets keep playing this game. What is the function of a 'coil'? Main power is fed to a double bank of coils, and from there to the relay panel. When I got the vehicle, the panel was functional. Now, no power past the coils. Could both of them fail just sitting?

Flip the main switch, power to here

Power to the tab facing the outside (green wire) Of course, it is connected to the main bus bar, so of course it has power

Power to the other tab on top of the coils (hidden, yellow wire in the and not directly connected to the main bus bar) - you can see the wire in the 2nd picture in this post

But no power at the output side, from either coil

I dont think I removed any switching or otherwise ignition-controlled wires from this coil area, but it is possible. Would they both fail at the same time? Do they have a fusing function?

 

[hobietony]

It looks like a Zener diode used to prevent spikes back into the system. Possibly had something with a series motor on the load side (maybe a vac pump for sucking blood up, mine still has one in place)

Now these are just guesses based on my electronics experience from 2'decades ago.

I'd buy that, although the pump was gone when I got the vehicle. Makes sense

 

[bobDog]

Suckin' Blood!!!!! Maybe you should rename it.....'Zombulance':sombrero:

 

[Ozrockrat]

Lets keep playing this game. What is the function of a 'coil'? Main power is fed to a double bank of coils, and from there to the relay panel. When I got the vehicle, the panel was functional. Now, no power past the coils. Could both of them fail just sitting?

Flip the main switch, power to here

Power to the tab facing the outside (green wire) Of course, it is connected to the main bus bar, so of course it has power

Power to the other tab on top of the coils (hidden, yellow wire in the and not directly connected to the main bus bar) - you can see the wire in the 2nd picture in this post

But no power at the output side, from either coil

I dont think I removed any switching or otherwise ignition-controlled wires from this coil area, but it is possible. Would they both fail at the same time? Do they have a fusing function?

Just another guess but is it the isolation point for the master and box power. Mine has a master isolator (button on the master control pad in the front) and a separate button to isolate the box power. This looks like it could do the same thing. Somewhere on the coil side there will be toggle type relay with a pushbutton switch that you need to Holstein in for a few seconds to get it to latch.

Also without seeing the photos clearly (iPhone) I cannot really analyze it's operation but if the main cables have +12 v then the switch wires on the back side of the coils will need to be taken to ground to get the coils to come in. They will show +12 v when not activated. If flashing the "yellow" wire to ground brings in the coil then check to see you have not got a floating ground/earth somewhere in the spaghetti factory they call a control box.

Bummer I am not going to be back in Phoenix for a few weeks or I would swing down and give you a hand.

 

[hobietony]

Also without seeing the photos clearly (iPhone) I cannot really analyze it's operation but if the main cables have +12 v then the switch wires on the back side of the coils will need to be taken to ground to get the coils to come in. They will show +12 v when not activated. If flashing the "yellow" wire to ground brings in the coil then check to see you have not got a floating ground/earth somewhere in the spaghetti factory they call a control box.

You are a genius! Connecting it to ground gave it a big 'click', and power at the panel! It is all coming back to me now, when I took out the main switch panel, there was one of the switches labeled 'master', go figure. That is the one I also disconnected at the electrical room, must have been at the coils. Somehow I thought that the master activated the switch panel, ddin't see how it could turn on the whole power distribution system. A big missing piece of understanding how the system works has been made clear now. I learned something today!

 

[Ozrockrat]

On board air power supply

I figure I at least have to have the system functional before I get the AC charged, but yes, I agree that the big hammer solution is going to have the rooftop AC going. I put in 2 big 4d batteries, and a 2000 zantrex inverter, so I think that the AC will work off that while I am driving, without having to run a genny.

Otherwise, I havent heard any good reason to keep that diode hooked up, so out it goes.

I would suggest that if you have the space leave it there and use it for your compressor. When starting or stopping electric motors you can get a reverse EMF pulse many times higher than the supply voltage. That diode unit will stop those pulses getting back to the rest of your electronics.

 

[Ozrockrat]

Oops I stuffed up.

It looks like a Zener diode used to prevent spikes back into the system. Possibly had something with a series motor on the load side (maybe a vac pump for sucking blood up, mine still has one in place)

Now these are just guesses based on my electronics experience from 2'decades ago.

Ok I just looked at your photos on a bigger screen (and with my glasses on). The diode is a schottky diode. This does nothing to limit the reverse voltage. All it does is provide normal diode action (blocks reverse voltage ) at a much quicker switching action than normal silicon diodes. It also has the big advantage of a lower forward voltage drop. A normal diode will drop about .7 v, this type is around .2 v.

If you are going to have solar panels this is an ideal isolator. You get the maximum voltage supplied from the panel to the controller but still stop the reverse bleed when the panel is not conducting. It will still work well as a feed for a motorized appliance but not in the way I described in a prior post. Actually it will work better as this diode switches very quickly stopping any reverse voltage spikes.





Sent from my iPad

 

[yager]

Hi ! RoosterBooster has been referring me over here for several AmboVan build ups. I just got a BoobooBox I will be fixing up for RVTow rig use, prolly not 4x4 for a while, but U-Joint is only a few hours away from me

I think the diode is used to prevent discharge from the devices that would be plugged in for recharging. Portable Defibrillators, monitors etc.. You wouldn't want them trying to carry any house load if the house voltage dropped.

Great build !! Thanks for posting so many pics as you go, it helps me to see what/how others are tackling problems I may have also...

 

[hobietony]

Long time since an update...

Had a trip to the sea of Cortez in early October, a week sailing my little boat in Florida in November, the holidays, moving my mother-in-law, plus trying to get some ski days in here with the early season snow in AZ and CO. Oh, and work still sucks, trying to finish a job at the end of this month, working long days, etc. Still, AmboVan progresses, albiet at a much slower pace since October.

Last posting I have a breakthrough in the electrical system understanding, so made some progress on that front - You may recall that I intend to cut the roof off and put a topper on to give myself some headroom, and to do that needed to clear out all the wiring in the ceiling space

Before -

Now, got that all cleared out -

Starting to get circuits hooked back up - Located against the drivers side, tucked out of the way of the roof demo

Running the new circuits through the new switch panel - Have the main coach power switch hook such that I can either have it run through the ignition, or just on without the ignition. Rear AC and Battery bank isolator switch is in there as well

Just have the load lights hooked up so far, but lots of room here for fog lights, aux lights, compressor, etc, plus some switched 12v outlets

Labeling things as I run them in the electrical room

More progress to follow...

 

[hobietony]

The rig always had bad 'wallow' in the rear springs, and the intent was always to support them with Air Bags, but I was a little uncomfortable with having bags carry the vehicle load, I just wanted them to help with trailers, a full camping load, etc. I also badly underestimated the weight I would be adding with the rear bumper, sliders, etc.

Unloaded, I felt it was a bit low in the rear end

Jacked up the van, got the springs pulled

Sent them back to Atlas, and had them rebuilt to a 7k rear axle load - they were at 5.5k before

Burly

Installed

Also replaced all the brake components while it was up on the jacks - shoes, drums, springs, e-brake components, everything but the 'wet' components - No pics, but holy $#!@ the stuff was bad in there. Stops like a dream now.

Sits a bit prouder now, and drives a world better - feels balanced, corners confidently, super happy with the results