Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Question: Why has my Airbag light decided to turn on?
After some research I thought I'd share my answer/solution.
The Airbag light on indicates a fault and that the Airbags are disabled. In some cases the light will flash out a code which can relate to the fault, My '97 didn't provide any clues in code.
However, frequently the connector under the passenger seat comes loose in E series vans. I shoved mine together tightly, and so far it is stayed off. If it comes back on, I'll dig under the seat more, clean the contacts, add dielectric grease, and reassemble. I've read it could also be caused by a connector under the drivers seat, connectors to the seat belt retractors (if your van has'em), or a blown 10amp fuse... to name a few things.
On SMB forum, the passenger seat connector seams to be the #1 cause (unless your rig was recently crashed). Or at least the first thing to check. Rotating seats and crap under the seats tends to exasperate the problem.
After some research I thought I'd share my answer/solution.
The Airbag light on indicates a fault and that the Airbags are disabled. In some cases the light will flash out a code which can relate to the fault, My '97 didn't provide any clues in code.
However, frequently the connector under the passenger seat comes loose in E series vans. I shoved mine together tightly, and so far it is stayed off. If it comes back on, I'll dig under the seat more, clean the contacts, add dielectric grease, and reassemble. I've read it could also be caused by a connector under the drivers seat, connectors to the seat belt retractors (if your van has'em), or a blown 10amp fuse... to name a few things.
On SMB forum, the passenger seat connector seams to be the #1 cause (unless your rig was recently crashed). Or at least the first thing to check. Rotating seats and crap under the seats tends to exasperate the problem.
jlcanterbury
Active member
Hello ambulance people. I just got my new ambulance home and started the tear down for my camper conversion. It's a 2003 E-350 with the 7.3L diesel and a quigley conversion. The box is made by wheeled coach. I'm incredibly pleased with the build quality of the box and electrical systems, and excited to get this off the ground.
I will definitely have some questions along the way, and I greatly appreciate the wealth of knowledge that this forum has to offer.
The first question is about the stock heater/ac unit from the rear. I will be removing this unit and installing a roof AC unit at a later time. I need to get it out of the way for my tear-down to proceed. For removal, what do I need to do with the various hoses attached to the unit? 6 hoses total, listed below.
-2 larger black ones which run to engine bay, presumably to bring radiator fluid for heat.
-2 smaller black ones, which appear to be t-d into the main AC lines at fill ports located under frame
-2 clear drain hoses
Can I simply plug off the AC lines where the T into the main AC fill system?
What about the radiator fluid line? Should I just loop that back into itself, or plug it at both ends? I am also trying to think of useful ways to re purpose these lines. If these do pump engine heated radiator fluid, they could be connected to a water tank for hot water or used for heated floors. Has anyone done anything useful with these?
Any help is appreciated!
I will definitely have some questions along the way, and I greatly appreciate the wealth of knowledge that this forum has to offer.
The first question is about the stock heater/ac unit from the rear. I will be removing this unit and installing a roof AC unit at a later time. I need to get it out of the way for my tear-down to proceed. For removal, what do I need to do with the various hoses attached to the unit? 6 hoses total, listed below.
-2 larger black ones which run to engine bay, presumably to bring radiator fluid for heat.
-2 smaller black ones, which appear to be t-d into the main AC lines at fill ports located under frame
-2 clear drain hoses
Can I simply plug off the AC lines where the T into the main AC fill system?
What about the radiator fluid line? Should I just loop that back into itself, or plug it at both ends? I am also trying to think of useful ways to re purpose these lines. If these do pump engine heated radiator fluid, they could be connected to a water tank for hot water or used for heated floors. Has anyone done anything useful with these?
Any help is appreciated!
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
For the AC lines you should get someone who has a gas recovery unit to suck the gas out and then block off the lines. There is probably another condenser somewhere as well. Possibly under the vehicle.
For the heater lines you can block them off where they T off the lines in the engine bay. Make sure you do a good job on these. If the burst you will lose all your coolant and the repair bill will not be pleasant. Consider putting shutoff valves in the hoses in the engine bay so you can hook them up to a heat exchanger or something that will assist with hot water for the module later in your build.
For the heater lines you can block them off where they T off the lines in the engine bay. Make sure you do a good job on these. If the burst you will lose all your coolant and the repair bill will not be pleasant. Consider putting shutoff valves in the hoses in the engine bay so you can hook them up to a heat exchanger or something that will assist with hot water for the module later in your build.
Regarding ventilation, has anyone had success using existing ambulance vents? Would you be able to compare with the noise/efficiency of something like a MaxxFan rooftop unit?
I'm working with a Type 2 Ambo, 94 Ford e350. It is setup with 3 vent fans (drivers side rear, passenger front & rear), all the Atwood Turbo 3000 3" Blower Fan. These are just too noisy. If I replaced them all with similar (quieter! & efficient) units, how effective of a circulation system could be created? Any suggestions on specific fans to consider? Maybe adding pop-out windows to help too?
I don't want to interrupt the look of the ambulance with a rooftop unit, but I have a dog and must maintain proper ventilation when leaving her inside.
I'm working with a Type 2 Ambo, 94 Ford e350. It is setup with 3 vent fans (drivers side rear, passenger front & rear), all the Atwood Turbo 3000 3" Blower Fan. These are just too noisy. If I replaced them all with similar (quieter! & efficient) units, how effective of a circulation system could be created? Any suggestions on specific fans to consider? Maybe adding pop-out windows to help too?
I don't want to interrupt the look of the ambulance with a rooftop unit, but I have a dog and must maintain proper ventilation when leaving her inside.
I put a ventline vanair fan in the back of the two vents on my roof. It’s small and runs at 100cfm. I had planned to add a bigger fan to the front vent. Small and low profile. May not be enough for you depending where you’re parked and what the weather is. Nice and low profile when closed though.
www.etrailer.com
Ventline Vanair Trailer Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - 6-1/4" Diameter - Smoke Ventline RV Vents and Fa
This roof vent uses a 12-volt fan to circulate air in motor homes and enclosed trailers, keeping interiors ventilated without compromising security. R
www.etrailer.com
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Before
After
$20 from Amazon. Happy with quality. Not sure about the plastic covers, but the connections are now solid.
I wasn’t able to find a reasonably priced end that would take all three heavy cables to the one + terminal.
After
$20 from Amazon. Happy with quality. Not sure about the plastic covers, but the connections are now solid.
I wasn’t able to find a reasonably priced end that would take all three heavy cables to the one + terminal.
New follower, even new owner.
Just picked this 1995 Horton, 7.3 PSD up Friday as a project. Runs fine, as the seller did 300 miles the day I bought it meeting with someone who wanted something nicer for $3000
I need to start reading this whole thread (currently on page 7 of 68) and inspecting it, start hitting up junkyards. Plan is to eventually live and travel in it for cycling and running.
Just picked this 1995 Horton, 7.3 PSD up Friday as a project. Runs fine, as the seller did 300 miles the day I bought it meeting with someone who wanted something nicer for $3000
I need to start reading this whole thread (currently on page 7 of 68) and inspecting it, start hitting up junkyards. Plan is to eventually live and travel in it for cycling and running.
Attachments
Hey, nice minimod. Horton sent me a bunch of files on my 97 ambo. They’re pretty friendly if you call, you might get some info.New follower, even new owner.
Just picked this 1995 Horton, 7.3 PSD up Friday as a project. Runs fine, as the seller did 300 miles the day I bought it meeting with someone who wanted something nicer for $3000
I need to start reading this whole thread (currently on page 7 of 68) and inspecting it, start hitting up junkyards. Plan is to eventually live and travel in it for cycling and running.
Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can get a hold of them, any info is better than none!
Here’s a link to the info I got from Horton. I think yours is too old to have the “System 2000”? If so that’s probably good. I would find myself wishing I just had switches and relays instead of a high tech circuit board that was 20+ years old.
Google Drive: Sign-in
Access Google Drive with a Google account (for personal use) or Google Workspace account (for business use).
drive.google.com
I believe mine is all relays. I haven't dug in yet. I think I need to schedule a time and day of the week to be my ambulance time
Abitibi
Explorer
Nice fine, you should post the link...
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
0 Gauge Battery Terminal, COROTC 0/4/8/10 Car Battery Terminal Connectors, Positive & Negative, Auto Car Audio Modification,2PCS : Amazon.ca: Automotive
0 Gauge Battery Terminal, COROTC 0/4/8/10 Car Battery Terminal Connectors, Positive & Negative, Auto Car Audio Modification,2PCS : Amazon.ca: Automotive
www.amazon.ca
Amazon.com: COROTC Battery Terminal Connectors,0/4/8/10 Gauge AWG Positive Negative,with 2 Clear Covers and Shims,Auto Car Audio Marine Boat Modification ¡: Automotive
Buy COROTC Battery Terminal Connectors, 0/4/8/10 Gauge AWG Positive Negative, with 2 Clear Covers and Shims, Auto Car Audio Marine Boat Modification ¡: Terminals & Ends - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
It sure beats $300-500 for a replacement cable and half a day to install them. They'd also be useful for all sort's of other vehicles also.
Mine were from COROTC... now they seem to want $55 cdn or $15 usd. Different sellers seem to have a wide range of prices for products that look the same.
Last edited:
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