Ambulance Conversion - New Modifications.

patoz

Expedition Leader
Someone knows who makes that sink and burner?
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View attachment 318289
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What kind of water heater you use / recommend?
I'm thinking about an electrical tankless.
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How long might hold a 5 gallon LP tank for cooking and water heating?


They are both Dometic products and are the SMEV brand. Dometic is the UK premier supplier of RV and Marine components. The quality is very good and very expensive also.

SMEV 8022 CARAVAN BOAT MOTORHOME 2 BURNER HOB 475mm x 370mm PI8022
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMEV-8022-C...143956?hash=item2a334a7494:g:VegAAOxyCepSbXhp

SMEV VA8006 SINK WITH GLASS LID 420mm wide x 440mm front to back x 142mm depth
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Carava...434248?hash=item2a4c949c88:g:9xMAAOSwstxU6cve


I don't understand the last question.
 

yzeevy

Adventurer
They are both Dometic products and are the SMEV brand. Dometic is the UK premier supplier of RV and Marine components. The quality is very good and very expensive also.

SMEV 8022 CARAVAN BOAT MOTORHOME 2 BURNER HOB 475mm x 370mm PI8022
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMEV-8022-C...143956?hash=item2a334a7494:g:VegAAOxyCepSbXhp

SMEV VA8006 SINK WITH GLASS LID 420mm wide x 440mm front to back x 142mm depth
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Carava...434248?hash=item2a4c949c88:g:9xMAAOSwstxU6cve


I don't understand the last question.
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I think I'll stick to Atwood.
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About the LP. If I'll use LP for the stove and the water heater how often I'll have to fill up a 5 gallon tank?
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
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I think I'll stick to Atwood.
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About the LP. If I'll use LP for the stove and the water heater how often I'll have to fill up a 5 gallon tank?



Atwood makes some good stuff also. Just be sure to look at the units designed for marine use also, and don't limit yourself to the RV market items. Marine items are generally much better quality.

As far as LP tank duration goes, that is something I can't answer. It will depend on factors such as the supply requirements for the devices you choose, ambient temperature, altitude, daily use, etc. Once all of this is determined, there are formulas that can be be used based on BTU input.

Here is a guide you can download that may help. See the section 'Determining Total Load' on page 7. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...JPRcd-XTAuUT0jIYoxUV8w&bvm=bv.108538919,d.cGc

Perhaps some of the guys who are already using a similar system can chime in and give you a general idea based on their experience.
 

yzeevy

Adventurer
Atwood makes some good stuff also. Just be sure to look at the units designed for marine use also, and don't limit yourself to the RV market items. Marine items are generally much better quality.

As far as LP tank duration goes, that is something I can't answer. It will depend on factors such as the supply requirements for the devices you choose, ambient temperature, altitude, daily use, etc. Once all of this is determined, there are formulas that can be be used based on BTU input.

Here is a guide you can download that may help. See the section 'Determining Total Load' on page 7. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...JPRcd-XTAuUT0jIYoxUV8w&bvm=bv.108538919,d.cGc

Perhaps some of the guys who are already using a similar system can chime in and give you a general idea based on their experience.
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I was thinking to use electrical heater.
Since the use of hot water is always while parking I always have the shore line.
From other hand everyone recommends on LP heater but I don't want to have to fill LP every 2-3 days.
That's why I asked.
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One thing that annoys me is the fact that the only way to see a product is to order it.
And then the hassle of returns.
 

VanIsle_Greg

I think I need a bigger truck!
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I was thinking to use electrical heater.
Since the use of hot water is always while parking I always have the shore line.
From other hand everyone recommends on LP heater but I don't want to have to fill LP every 2-3 days.
That's why I asked.
.
One thing that annoys me is the fact that the only way to see a product is to order it.
And then the hassle of returns.

On demand LPG Hot Water heaters do not use any LPG unless you are actually running hot water, and then it is not an unreasonable amount for very hot water. On the other hand an electric unit requires a large reservoir of water to heat...so there is a tradeoff. On Demand is better.

With a big van you should be able to carry a lot of LPG for all purposes. For what it is worth, our old Tent Trailer had a 6 gallon LPG hot water heater, an LPG furnace and an LPG fridge and we could run a week on a 20# tank and still have LPG left. We have 2 kids and used a lot of hot water, rarely used the furnace and the fridge was on cold all the time.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader

This is not a Battery Isolator, it's just a simple relay or what is sometimes called a solenoid.

This is a battery Isolator...

80051FL.gif


This short article explains my reasoning much better than I can, and this is the basics...

Battery Isolators are made with two or more silicon diodes that act like check valves. The diodes will pass current from the charging source to the batteries, but will not pass current backward from one battery to the other or back to the charging source. Nature extracts a price for this by causing a voltage drop of about 0.7 Volts across the diodes. If you have a regulated charging source that senses its own output, the voltage at the battery will be lower than at the charger or regulator and, if not compensated for, will lead to inadequate charging.
Please read the entire article: https://www.bluesea.com/support/art...ttery_Isolators_and_Automatic_Charging_Relays


BTW, are you familiar with this co.?
I think to install one of this battery indicators.

http://www.kussmaul.com/bar graphs and indicators.html

I have not used any of their products on a personal basis, but since their products are used on a lot of emergency vehicles, I'm sure I have come across them during the course of my career. At least I've never heard anything bad about them.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Now, that doesn't mean they're the best, but they have to be pretty darn good to have stuck around the ambo builder market for so many years.
 

yzeevy

Adventurer
On demand LPG Hot Water heaters do not use any LPG unless you are actually running hot water, and then it is not an unreasonable amount for very hot water. On the other hand an electric unit requires a large reservoir of water to heat...so there is a tradeoff. On Demand is better.

With a big van you should be able to carry a lot of LPG for all purposes. For what it is worth, our old Tent Trailer had a 6 gallon LPG hot water heater, an LPG furnace and an LPG fridge and we could run a week on a 20# tank and still have LPG left. We have 2 kids and used a lot of hot water, rarely used the furnace and the fridge was on cold all the time.
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Thanks, that gives me a good estimate.
Can you tell me which fridge you use or recommend?
.
 

yzeevy

Adventurer
This is not a Battery Isolator, it's just a simple relay or what is sometimes called a solenoid.

This is a battery Isolator...


This short article explains my reasoning much better than I can, and this is the basics...


Please read the entire article: https://www.bluesea.com/support/art...ttery_Isolators_and_Automatic_Charging_Relays




I have not used any of their products on a personal basis, but since their products are used on a lot of emergency vehicles, I'm sure I have come across them during the course of my career. At least I've never heard anything bad about them.
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I didn't have many choices, I couldn't have done it myself.
Now that the batteries are installed, how difficult might be to replace it with a better one?
Like the --
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
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I didn't have many choices, I couldn't have done it myself.
Now that the batteries are installed, how difficult might be to replace it with a better one?
Like the --
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A


Since you now have a system already installed, I would try that out for a while, maybe go on a few camping trips and see how it does. Monitor your batteries very carefully and note any discrepancies or shortcomings.

What you have now is a 'dumb' system and is the equivalent of connecting a set of jumper cables from one set of batteries to the other when the ignition switch is 'On', and disconnecting them when the switch is 'Off'. If your start batteries are full charged and the house batteries are 50% discharged, the house batteries will drag the start batteries down when they are connected. Once the equalize, the alternator will start slowly bringing them back up. This is bad when done repeatedly! The ACR is a 'smart' system, basically meaning it monitors the condition of both banks and knows when and how much charging amperage to apply to each one.

If you decide to replace the basic solenoid, the first thing you would need to do is see what the amp output of your alternator is, since this ACR is rated at 120A. Then just follow these instructions, but substitute your engine's alternator where it shows the outboard motor, and your vehicle ground where it shows the Negative Buss Bar. BTW, Amazon has a Blue Sea Systems store and that is where you'll find the best prices most of the time.

This is a pretty simple install, but where it gets complicated is when you try to tie in the Vanner charging system. It can be done using multiple ACRs, but some people just chose to use a separate charger for one of the banks to keep it simple. Or, you can use a separate 120AC charger designed for two or more battery banks, and disable the charger in the Vanner. If you choose to go this route with the Vanner, I can get you in touch with someone on here that can explain how to do that.
 
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yzeevy

Adventurer
Since you now have a system already installed, I would try that out for a while, maybe go on a few camping trips and see how it does. Monitor your batteries very carefully and note any discrepancies or shortcomings.

This is a pretty simple install, but where it gets complicated is when you try to tie in the Vanner charging system. It can be done using multiple ACRs, but some people just chose to use a separate charger for one of the banks to keep it simple. Or, you can use a separate 120AC charger designed for two or more battery banks, and disable the charger in the Vanner. If you choose to go this route with the Vanner, I can get you in touch with someone on here that can explain how to do that.
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It may sound funny but I didn't tried yet the shore power, and especially now I have no idea how it will work.
I just can't find a 15a to 20a extension cord and I don't want to replace the connector to a 30a one.
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Will it be simpler with the Sure Power 1202 ?
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Thanks, good night.
 

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