Ambulance Conversion - New Modifications.

[emtmark]

Rv fridges traditionally have been built in, more for security than anything. There is a lot of movement in a vehicle driving down the road. I suppose you could free stand it with bracing but it's gonna look like spider man sneezed on it.


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[patoz]

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1. Nothing like in RVs
2. To be realistic, I probably will have to stay in campgrounds most of the time.
3. At my current residence I have no access to 120VAC, I use the generator.
4. But of course:
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View attachment 318632
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I probably will keep 2-3 adaptors, right now I want to try out the shore line.

OK, it looks like the max capacity of your system is 20A, so here is what I recommend.

1. Definitely keep the existing recessed 20A male inlet (picture) you have now. If you don't want the auto-eject function, just disconnect the 12v hot wire going to it or pull the fuse if it has a separate one.

2. Purchase a ready made, or make up a 12 ga. cord, 25' - 30' long, with a NEMA 5-20R Female on one end, and a male NEMA 5-20P Male on the other. The plugs should be the weatherproof type approved for outdoor use. I'm just posting this picture for reference and these cords can be found much cheaper. However, DO NOT scrimp on the quality and make sure you use at least 12 ga. wire. Nothing like an electrical fire to ruin your day, especially when it's in your sole place of residence.



http://www.amazon.com/NEMA-5-20-Extension-Power-Cord/dp/B00DMHG15Q

3. This cord will give you plenty of reach and plug directly into the 20A receptacle located in most campground electrical pedestals.

4. If you need to plug into a standard NEMA 5-15 household type outlet, just us an adapter. For your generator, I would just make up a shorter cord with the same plugs on each end, or whatever you need to match the 15A or 20A outlet on it.


Here is a good general reference written by a couple who live full time in their RV. It's written in layman's language, and I've found it to be very helpful as I move along with my project.

http://www.rv-dreams.com/rv-electrical.html

 

[yzeevy]

OK, it looks like the max capacity of your system is 20A, so here is what I recommend.

1. Definitely keep the existing recessed 20A male inlet (picture) you have now. If you don't want the auto-eject function, just disconnect the 12v hot wire going to it or pull the fuse if it has a separate one.

2. Purchase a ready made, or make up a 12 ga. cord, 25' - 30' long, with a NEMA 5-20R Female on one end, and a male NEMA 5-20P Male on the other. The plugs should be the weatherproof type approved for outdoor use. I'm just posting this picture for reference and these cords can be found much cheaper. However, DO NOT scrimp on the quality and make sure you use at least 12 ga. wire. Nothing like an electrical fire to ruin your day, especially when it's in your sole place of residence.

View attachment 318686

http://www.amazon.com/NEMA-5-20-Extension-Power-Cord/dp/B00DMHG15Q

3. This cord will give you plenty of reach and plug directly into the 20A receptacle located in most campground electrical pedestals.

4. If you need to plug into a standard NEMA 5-15 household type outlet, just us an adapter. For your generator, I would just make up a shorter cord with the same plugs on each end, or whatever you need to match the 15A or 20A outlet on it.


Here is a good general reference written by a couple who live full time in their RV. It's written in layman's language, and I've found it to be very helpful as I move along with my project.

http://www.rv-dreams.com/rv-electrical.html

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As I mentioned, the flat pins of the male inlet are set opposite to the standard setting.
I need to rotate both of them 90 degree to be able to plug in a standard female cable.
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My concern is, why they did it this way?
Its possible that they changed the polarity?

 

[patoz]

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As I mentioned, the flat pins of the male inlet are set opposite to the standard setting.
I need to rotate both of them 90 degree to be able to plug in a standard female cable.
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My concern is, why they did it this way?
Its possible that they changed the polarity?

As I mentioned, the flat pins of the male inlet are set opposite to the standard setting.

Yes, and they are supposed to be that way because it is a 20A rated system vs. a 15A system.

I need to rotate both of them 90 degree to be able to plug in a standard female cable.

I don't know if they can be changed, but if you do you will lower the capacity of your system to only 15A.

My concern is, why they did it this way?

Again, because it is a 20A rated system vs. a 15A system.

Its possible that they changed the polarity?

No, the polarity is correct.


You can do what you want, but the proper thing to do is just purchase the correct plugs and cord like I suggested. Considering the appliances and other items you are tying to run, you will need at least a 20A supply. If you drop down to 15A, you will not be able to run some of the things you will have without constantly tripping the breakers.

 

[yzeevy]

Yes, and they are supposed to be that way because it is a 20A rated system vs. a 15A system.



I don't know if they can be changed, but if you do you will lower the capacity of your system to only 15A.



Again, because it is a 20A rated system vs. a 15A system.



No, the polarity is correct.


You can do what you want, but the proper thing to do is just purchase the correct plugs and cord like I suggested. Considering the appliances and other items you are tying to run, you will need at least a 20A supply. If you drop down to 15A, you will not be able to run some of the things you will have without constantly tripping the breakers.

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I am sorry, THE CABLE I BOUGHT, although looks like a 20A, has a different setting.
It is a NEMA 6 type

 

[patoz]

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I am sorry, THE CABLE I BOUGHT, although looks like a 20A, has a different setting.

Does the cable you bought have plugs with a pattern that looks like the ones below? If so, it's a NEMA 6-20 for 20A/250VAC, and is used for appliances such as window unit air conditioners. Since you said it was 6' long, I'm guessing you bought an appliance extension cord.

http://internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=5466-X



Don't feel bad, I made the same mistake last week and now have one sitting on my desk waiting to be replaced with the correct one.

 

[yzeevy]

Does the cable you bought have plugs with a pattern that looks like the ones below? If so, it's a NEMA 6-20 for 20A/250VAC, and is used for appliances such as window unit air conditioners. Since you said it was 6' long, I'm guessing you bought an appliance extension cord.



Don't feel bad, I made the same mistake last week and now have one sitting on my desk waiting to be replaced with the correct one.

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Yes it is. What this is doing at LOWE'S?

 

[patoz]

All of the home centers and bigger hardware stores sell them, usually for use with window unit ACs when the provided cord is not long enough to reach the dedicated outlet.

 

[yzeevy]

All of the home centers and bigger hardware stores sell them, usually for use with window unit ACs when the provided cord is not long enough to reach the dedicated outlet.

Hallelujah, a 12 gage, 10 feet, 15 to 20A extension cord has been created.
Did it myself.

 

[patoz]

But have you plugged it in yet? That is the question...

 

[yzeevy]

But have you plugged it in yet? That is the question...

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No, not yet. I'll do it tomorrow at the RV garage.
I want to see how it's done and how it works.

 

[emtmark]

Ambulance Convertion - Srarted Today

https://vimeo.com/148052703


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[emtmark]

https://vimeo.com/148052615


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[huskyhauler]

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I blocked the hose temporary and I can drive it, but I want to know if I should buy a new air connector
or I can disconnect it.
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BTW, are the RV fridges must be installed into the recesses or can they be like a
home fridge, of course tied and secured?

RV fridges come in 12v DC, natural gas, and 120v AC and because they are more or less a specialty item (created for the RV and marine industry) they are more expensive. A standard home fridge runs on 120v AC and are relatively cheap. I run a small household, 120v AC mini-frdige/freezer combo and it works just fine on my 15amp system. The important thing is to get one in which the freezer is a separate compartment than the fridge so you can actually have frozen items and keep your non frozen items from freezing.

Here is an example of what I have:

They can be found for relatively cheap on craigslist.

 

[yzeevy]

https://vimeo.com/148052615


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:clapsmile