Ambulance Conversion - New Modifications.

[patoz]

Someone is interested in buying some of the Whelen 900 Series Strobe Reflectors.
He is asking if he can use them without a power supply / strobe control unit.
.
Can he?! I have no idea!

NO, they will not work without the Strobe Pack control unit. Strobes operate on high voltage and will not do anything if just connected to 12VDC.

 

[yzeevy]

Not so good morning.
.
I went to move my truck because of street cleaning, AND !!!
.
Although the engine turned on, there is NO acceleration
Instruments panel, no lights
Voltage indicator dead
Activating the hand break wont accelerate

.
Fuses seems to be OK
.
Any idea ? !

 

[huskyhauler]

Can someone give me a link to a DIY Sofa Bad?
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I found this website for fittings but some are not sold in the US
or I have to order hundreds of them from Alibaba.
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https://www.google.com/search?q=sof...JIU_xLD1M:&usg=__rsfE9dBQTQ9HE2zKi-ClX8ZuZNw=

I initially tried to use an IKEA style sofa bed with that same hinge system. I scrapped the idea though. It doesn't fold up and out of the way at all. It has a really wide base and when in the upright couch position it leaves a huge gap between the wall and the upright portion. It needs that extra room to fold flat. As such, it needs to be installed too far away from the wall for my taste.

After I scrapped that idea I installed a jack-knife style RV couch/bed. It worked OK for a year or so but was shorter than the ambulance bench, was heavy, and because of the design it too stuck out further into the middle of the ambulance than I liked.

After two years or so I went with a nautical-style slat bed I fabricated with the help of these plans:

http://www.doityourselfrv.com/diy-rv-sofa-bed-madmumsie/

http://vandogtraveller.com/expanding-bed-for-van/

I had to tweak the plans so the bed could be installed on top of the existing bench.

Overall it's a much better solution. It's lighter and allows access to the compartments under the bench.

 

[patoz]

Yep, IMO the slat bed is the way to go, and that's what I'm planning on using. It's the only thing I've found that will work with the existing crew bench base, and allow you to to keep your storage underneath.

 

[yzeevy]

He is using a very thick mattress, probably to compensate the gaps.
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Is there a sliding bracket that goes between two plates, not like the drawer kind that go from the sides??

 

[Herbie]

Can someone give me a link to a DIY Sofa Bad?
.
I found this website for fittings but some are not sold in the US
or I have to order hundreds of them from Alibaba.
.
https://www.google.com/search?q=sof...JIU_xLD1M:&usg=__rsfE9dBQTQ9HE2zKi-ClX8ZuZNw=

This might be what you're looking for: http://www.busdepot.com/98553 (Reproduction VW Rock-n-roll bed hinges)
Scroll backwards through these posts to see how you build a bed: https://campervancrazy.wordpress.co...ng-taiga-lily/rock-and-roll-bed-construction/

Hope that helps.

 

[yzeevy]

Not so good morning.
.
I went to move my truck because of street cleaning, AND !!!
.
Although the engine turned on, there is NO acceleration
Instruments panel, no lights
Voltage indicator dead
Activating the hand break wont accelerate

.
Fuses seems to be OK
.
Any idea ? !

.
.
Anyone, please!

 

[patoz]

.
.
Anyone, please!

Without being there to do an actual diagnosis, the only thing I can offer is this: It was working fine before you added the extra house batteries, solenoid, and wiring, so I would check all of that. Did the RV shop add a switch to change the rear Patient Compartment from the starting batteries to the house batteries? If so, check that switch to make sure it's set correctly, and that all of the associated wiring and connectors are OK and tight.

Although the engine turned on, there is NO acceleration - I have no idea.

Instruments panel, no lights, Voltage indicator dead - Usually indicates dead batteries.

Activating the hand break wont accelerate - What does the hand brake have to do with acceleration?

 

[yzeevy]

This might be what you're looking for: http://www.busdepot.com/98553 (Reproduction VW Rock-n-roll bed hinges)
Scroll backwards through these posts to see how you build a bed: https://campervancrazy.wordpress.co...ng-taiga-lily/rock-and-roll-bed-construction/

Hope that helps.

.
I think the hinges have to be ordered from Europe

 

[yzeevy]

Without being there to do an actual diagnosis, the only thing I can offer is this: It was working fine before you added the extra house batteries, solenoid, and wiring, so I would check all of that. Did the RV shop add a switch to change the rear Patient Compartment from the starting batteries to the house batteries? If so, check that switch to make sure it's set correctly, and that all of the associated wiring and connectors are OK and tight.

Although the engine turned on, there is NO acceleration - I have no idea.

Instruments panel, no lights, Voltage indicator dead - Usually indicates dead batteries.

Activating the hand break wont accelerate - What does the hand brake have to do with acceleration?

.
It was working fine yesterday. I think it has to do with the shore line.
He told me to install a switch to activate the insulator because the shore line was charging only the front batteries
.
By applying the hand break it accelerates to 1200rpm

 

[patoz]

If in fact, the RV shop installed a Tow Ready 118665 Battery Isolation Solenoid as you stated a while back, and if they did not change any of the wiring from the Vanner Inverter/Charger, then all they did was give you a way to connect the house batteries to the starting batteries in parallel. See below**.

If they told you to install a switch to activate the Solenoid/Isolator, then they did not connect it to the ignition switch, which means it's not operating. The solenoid contacts are normally open or 'OFF', so no charge is going to the house batteries at all, if you haven't installed a switch to turn it 'ON'.

**

Basically, charging batteries in parallel with a single output charger is not good unless they are identical brands, types, age, and state of charge. If I remember what I read correctly, it won't damage them if the charge levels are different, but it's very inefficient and can take much longer. If you start with two new identical batteries, and they are wired in parallel directly vs. through a 'Batt 1/Batt 2/Both' switch, then you're probably OK. It's the ones who mix and match batteries or have a Bank 1 and Bank 2 that they operate independently, or combine at times, that causes problems. In that case a multi-bank charger should be used because it can send the appropriate charge current to each individual battery. This is especially important when it comes to the 'Float' stage.

1. First thing I would is take a Volt (VOM) Meter and check the voltage in both battery banks.

2. If the starting batteries are low or dead, disconnect the house batteries from the system.

3. If you have a portable charger, connect it to your starting batteries. Do Not plug in the shore power cord! We don't want the Vanner interfering with anything.

4. After the starter batteries are charged back up, try to start and run the engine and check all things that were not working before.

My suggestion in the long run, is to let the Vanner charge the house batteries since it also has the inverter and automatic transfer switch, and purchase a separate charger for the starter batteries such as the IOIA 45 - Amp Charger with IQ4 (4th. stage) . You can get by with a smaller charger, but it needs to be a four stage charger if at all possible.

 

[yzeevy]

.
It was working fine yesterday. I think it has to do with the shore line.
He told me to install a switch to activate the insulator because the shore line was charging only the front batteries
.
By applying the hand break it accelerates to 1200rpm

.
Problem solved !!
.
Just in case, for general knowledge.
After installing the house batteries, it turned out that the shore line won't charge them.
The mechanic suggested to add a switch from 12v to the isolators activation pin.
I have to turn on the switch when the shore line is connected.
.
I bought a switch with a LED to remind me.
For the LED to light I need to connect the third pin to ground.
THAT created a current surge that blew the Engine Control fuse

 

[patoz]

Are you saying the switch was already installed before you discovered this problem, and that caused the Engine Control Fuse to blow? Or you just now installed the switch and that caused the fuse to blow?

 

[Herbie]

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I think the hinges have to be ordered from Europe

Did you follow the link? That's Bus Depot, which is a US company, reselling parts here. I've ordered those exact hinges from them.

 

[yzeevy]

Are you saying the switch was already installed before you discovered this problem, and that caused the Engine Control Fuse to blow? Or you just now installed the switch and that caused the fuse to blow?

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No, I installed the switch yesterday and have decided to connect the generator.
Run it for an hour and finished the day. Didn't try to accelerate so the surprise waited for me in the morning.