ARB Locker Wiring & Plumbing

[Redline]

I will have the gears/lockers done by Folbeck 4WD. Yes, I'm doing the solid pinion spacer as it was suggested by the guys at JT/Just Differentials.

James, where are you having your gears and lockers installed? Are you have them use a solid pinion spacer? Thanks.

 

[stomperxj]

Here's just some information to chew on -

I just installed my ARB in the front of my XJ. I'll be running an MV-50 compressor with about 2 gallons of tank, an 85-105 pressure switch, standard 1/4" DOT air lines and brass fittings, and a MAC air solenoid. I'm wiring up the whole system myself... here's the cost breakdown:

MV-50----------$49
Switches--------$17
Pressure switch-$16
Fittings---------$40
Air line----------$12
Tank------------$15
Air Solenoid------$18

$167 total...

 

[Redline]

Sounds like a very good set-up and reasonable cost.

I have decided to go the easy route and have the shop do the whole thing with the ARB compressor and wiring.

Here's just some information to chew on -

I just installed my ARB in the front of my XJ. I'll be running an MV-50 compressor with about 2 gallons of tank, an 85-105 pressure switch, standard 1/4" DOT air lines and brass fittings, and a MAC air solenoid. I'm wiring up the whole system myself... here's the cost breakdown:

MV-50----------$49
Switches--------$17
Pressure switch-$16
Fittings---------$40
Air line----------$12
Tank------------$15
Air Solenoid------$18

$167 total...

 

[SinCity4r]

I will have the gears/lockers done by Folbeck 4WD. Yes, I'm doing the solid pinion spacer as it was suggested by the guys at JT/Just Differentials.

Cool, have they done a clamshell diff before? If not, I guess I'll be their second

 

[SOAZ]

I'm sure the other responses have handled it, but I thought the dual locker set-up from ARB was trick. Nothing needed. The switches even fit the empty slots on my 4runner perfectly. I did the smal ARB compressor, but someday it might be replaced with a large, non arb compressor. Consider buying some cheap tubing to place around the hard plastic air lines to protect them from heat and cuts. Its cheap and easy to do. I love my switches and I love my arb's. :smiley_drive:
Go ahead and wire/plumb it up yourself. I took me a couple hours and I just kept waiting for the frustrating part that never came!

Are the switches, wiring and plumbing to control the ARB lockers included with the lockers, or are these a la cart items I must buy to make the lockers work?

I'm on a mission to have gears and ARB lockers installed in my 4Runner soon. I was thinking I wanted to install factory switches in the empty blanks I have in my dash to control the lockers and compressor. Three blanks next to the T-case lock button filled with these controls would be slick. I’m was also thinking of NOT buying an ARB compressor and using something different.

My plan had been to have the gear & lockers professionally installed but do the wiring and plumbing of air myself so it is 'clean' and to my satisfaction.

Now I'm thinking that trying to make a factory Toyota switch work for the lockers & wiring might be more work than I want. Surely the ARB wiring harness is set up to basically plug and play with their switches. I can probably be very happy using the ARB stuff if I install it where and how I want.

I haven't decided if I'm gong to try to install the wiring/plumbing before the lockers are installed or after. My shop says they don't care, I can do it either way.


Last choice is to have the shop do the hole thing to save time, but I’m sure I would prefer my own work when it comes to wiring and plumbing details (takes time).

Experiences please.

James

 

[IH8RDS]

Consider buying some cheap tubing to place around the hard plastic air lines to protect them from heat and cuts. Its cheap and easy to do.

I did the same thing.

 

[BajaTaco]

We just tested one of the new ARB CKMA12 compressors. Results are in the latest issue of Overland Journal (Spring 2008). You won't be disappointed James.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

We just tested one of the new ARB CKMA12 compressors. Results are in the latest issue of Overland Journal (Spring 2008). You won't be disappointed James.

Excellent test

Reading it now, bottle opener LOL

 

[MuddyMudskipper]

I think you will be happy with the all ARB set-up you finally decided to go with. I have had mine for a few years and love it. The only thing you may want to do differently is run the Russell Performance locker lines right off the bat. I had a line blow on me when I first got my lockers because the shop that installed them kinked the line. ARB graciously sent me everything I needed, including new push-locks and bulk head fittings to do the repair gratis. I do plan on swapping over to the Russell lines eventually but I carry the ARB air line service kit (ASK001) just in case.

Oh and I carry a CO2 tank to fill my tires.

 

[Redline]

They have done lots of IFS Chevys. They haven't done lots of recent/late model Toyota front diffs, but I'm confident their gear guy can handle the job.

Cool, have them done a clamshell diff before? If not, I guess I'll be their second

 

[Redline]

The ARB switches fit the stock blanks perfectly? The blanks needed a slight amount of trimming right, they didn't snap right into the holes did they?

The shop plans on putting split-loom on the wiring and lines to protect it. If they don't, or don't do it to my satisfaction, I will change or add protection as needed.

I'm sure the other responses have handled it, but I thought the dual locker set-up from ARB was trick. Nothing needed. The switches even fit the empty slots on my 4runner perfectly. I did the smal ARB compressor, but someday it might be replaced with a large, non arb compressor. Consider buying some cheap tubing to place around the hard plastic air lines to protect them from heat and cuts. Its cheap and easy to do. I love my switches and I love my arb's. :smiley_drive:
Go ahead and wire/plumb it up yourself. I took me a couple hours and I just kept waiting for the frustrating part that never came!

 

[Redline]

Thanks for the input Muddy. I’m gong to run the standard air lines to start. I had one friend tell me they are more flexible and easy to repair IF you have a problem on the trail. But the braided lines are interesting and the repair kit is a must have back-up plan.

I think you will be happy with the all ARB set-up you finally decided to go with. I have had mine for a few years and love it. The only thing you may want to do differently is run the Russell Performance locker lines right off the bat. I had a line blow on me when I first got my lockers because the shop that installed them kinked the line. ARB graciously sent me everything I needed, including new push-locks and bulk head fittings to do the repair gratis. I do plan on swapping over to the Russell lines eventually but I carry the ARB air line service kit (ASK001) just in case.

Oh and I carry a CO2 tank to fill my tires.

 

[madizell]

I have been running standard blue line to both front and rear ARB's since 1999. Only the last 3 feet in the rear are braided line, the rest is blue. I use the braided in the rear only because the line has to stand free for those few feet to accommodate the suspension. In the front, the blue line runs from frame to trailing arm to axle to third member, without issues as very little of it stands free.

I have never had a line break from contact with the trail, rocks, or bogs, and the only line failures have been related to excess heat from running the lines too close to the headers. Route the line carefully and you should have no issues as the blue line is extremely durable.

 

[robert j. yates]

Here's just some information to chew on -

I just installed my ARB in the front of my XJ. I'll be running an MV-50 compressor with about 2 gallons of tank, an 85-105 pressure switch, standard 1/4" DOT air lines and brass fittings, and a MAC air solenoid. I'm wiring up the whole system myself... here's the cost breakdown:

MV-50----------$49
Switches--------$17
Pressure switch-$16
Fittings---------$40
Air line----------$12
Tank------------$15
Air Solenoid------$18

$167 total...

That system works fine but IMO, it overly complicates the ARB system and one other thing, those air switches will off-gas gear oil vapors into your cab. BTDT and finally ripped allof the air switches and whatnot out and installed the complete ARB harness.

 

[IH8RDS]

Route the line carefully and you should have no issues as the blue line is extremely durable.

The only issue I had was I melted the blue line on the header too. I just rerouted and now there are no issues.