Artistic Shots- Well thought out, framed (positioned), artistic shots only please.
- Thread starter LaOutbackTrail
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Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
OK, now I am starting to believe you may just be a very bad person and should be banned from this community forever. :elkgrin:
Yet another great capture. Well done.:victory:
Yet another great capture. Well done.:victory:
john101477
Photographer in the Wild
Bohica what camera are you using? stitch or crop?
very nice image
very nice image
BOHICA
Adventurer
Thanks for the kudos...I use a Nikon D700 and crop instead of stitch. I know a lot of people don't like HDR but I think it more accurately captures what I see. Again, thanks for the positive remarks. I've enjoyed looking through Brad's website and other's here on the forum are real inspirations...like LostCanadian, CCHOC, LaOutBackTrail, SMSLAVIN to name just a few.
photoman
Explorer
BOHICA- what are you using to create your HDR's? I noticed some issues in a couple of your shots such as the tree in the Bryce Canyon shot and clouds in the others. Something to always be aware of when shooting multiple exposures is movement. Whether it is grass blades, tree limbs, or clouds- these movements between exposures affect your image and give tell-tell signs that it is HDR.
A couple ways to work around this is to do a faux HDR which is to use a single exposure- make a couple copies and adjust the copies to different exposures. This gives you a similar situation of taking multiple exposures but all of your images have clouds and other moving objects in the same place.
Another technique is manual blending multiple exposures in Photoshop rather than using a software program.
You have some great comps and have been blessed with some great light on your trip. Hope you can make the best out of your shots and get some images that you will be proud to print large and hang on your walls. Keep sharing your shots!
A couple ways to work around this is to do a faux HDR which is to use a single exposure- make a couple copies and adjust the copies to different exposures. This gives you a similar situation of taking multiple exposures but all of your images have clouds and other moving objects in the same place.
Another technique is manual blending multiple exposures in Photoshop rather than using a software program.
You have some great comps and have been blessed with some great light on your trip. Hope you can make the best out of your shots and get some images that you will be proud to print large and hang on your walls. Keep sharing your shots!
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
Very nice Bohica.
Sometimes noise is generated from the HDR processing and even more so if you have noise from higher ISO shots to begin with. If the Lightroom noise filter can't clean it up then I use the Noiseware Pro plug in on Photoshop that works pretty well.
I mention this because I really like this shot but the noise in the sky is distracting to me. I bet a pass through Noiseware would clean that up. :sombrero:
Sometimes noise is generated from the HDR processing and even more so if you have noise from higher ISO shots to begin with. If the Lightroom noise filter can't clean it up then I use the Noiseware Pro plug in on Photoshop that works pretty well.
I mention this because I really like this shot but the noise in the sky is distracting to me. I bet a pass through Noiseware would clean that up. :sombrero:
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
A few more from Toroweap.
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Lost Canadian
Expedition Leader
Nice shots Brad! I really hope to get down there in the near future. I only have one tip for you that would have helped these a bit, and it's your choice of aperture.:ylsmoke: I noticed what looked like diffraction killing the real resolution on a couple of these so I peaked at the metadata. If you'd like we can discuss it.
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
I would enjoy hearing your feedback on the diffraction. Yep, all of these were taken with my 10-22 wide angle at F20. I thought I needed that small an aperture to get the depth of focus I was going for.
Discuss away. I would love to learn how to keep improving. :sombrero:
Another factor is these are all HDR processed followed by some noise reduction that I'm sure also softened the resolution some too.
Discuss away. I would love to learn how to keep improving. :sombrero:
Another factor is these are all HDR processed followed by some noise reduction that I'm sure also softened the resolution some too.
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Lost Canadian
Expedition Leader
On a cropped sensor, like the 7D with 18 megapixels and an ultra wide lens, you really don't need to go past F11-13, F16 would be my absolute max on a cropped sensor. Remember, the smaller the sensor the greater the natural depth of field. F20-22 is for something like a full framer, and even then only needed when you are dealing with extremes of perspective and distance, like this below where the lens was probably less than 6 inches from the ice.
For a higher perspective like yours, if you place your center of focus properly I'm thinking a F7-9 range would have been sufficient, and would have kept the lens close to its peak, which I'm guessing is in the F5.6-7.1 range. It really is a tricky equation of distance to subjects, lens choice like wide to tele, capture format size from point and shoot to large format, and where you place your center of focus. As a rule of thumb though, at least with a cropped sensor, anything beyond F11-13 really starts to become a point of diminishing returns, where by any gain in depth of field due to smaller apertures is negated by a robbing of resolution due to diffraction. We could get a lot deeper into this, but for now that's kinda the Coles Notes version.
For a higher perspective like yours, if you place your center of focus properly I'm thinking a F7-9 range would have been sufficient, and would have kept the lens close to its peak, which I'm guessing is in the F5.6-7.1 range. It really is a tricky equation of distance to subjects, lens choice like wide to tele, capture format size from point and shoot to large format, and where you place your center of focus. As a rule of thumb though, at least with a cropped sensor, anything beyond F11-13 really starts to become a point of diminishing returns, where by any gain in depth of field due to smaller apertures is negated by a robbing of resolution due to diffraction. We could get a lot deeper into this, but for now that's kinda the Coles Notes version.
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yellocoyote
Adventurer
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