Sway Bar Bushings & End Links, Body Mount Bushings & Maintenance
Some new replacement parts to try and tighten up a few areas of the van and adjust the sway bar a bit more parallel after torsion lift. The Moog Problem Solver swaybar bushings and end links had definitely seen better days.
The bushings were no longer holding the sway bar tight and swaybar would shift slightly and rub tire at near full lock. Also, the end link bushings had flattened out unevenly due to the downward angle of swaybar and control arm from the torsion lift so want to alleviate that somewhat. I considered shimming the sway bar subframe bushing to move down but space is limited with idler arm right under bushing shell so went with slightly longer end links.
I compared and researched stock parts with aftermarket and came up with Energy Suspension Hyper-Flex urethane sway bar bushings to fit my 30mm (1 3/16") swaybar and an Adjust-A-Link end link kit. I'm also going to be making a few more improvements/modifications to Stroverlander in the near future so wanted to procure a few other bits and pieces. No one really lists any urethane performance products for the Astro/Safari so went to work cross referencing part numbers for body/subframe bushings (with a lead from an A/S forum member for an older Chevy pickup that used the same bushings for cab mounts) and came up with this Prothane urethane body/subframe bushing kit.
While the swaybar bushings are greasable, I'll most likely need to relocate the zerk fittings due to interference with idler arms so will plug those holes with set screws and then drill new holes offset from center for zerk fittings.
I'll get the swaybar parts installed in the next few days and then body/subframe bushings when I have the remaining pieces together for subframe.
I finally fixed the chronic faulty hood release mechanism, guess I was just finally tired of pulling on the release handle only to not have the hood pop open and so resort to tapping on the hood. Then when the hood would finally release, continue fighting with the wobbly and flimsy release catch on the hood. Having tried adjusting the latch mechanism in the past with no results, I finally thought about it for a minute and narrowed it down to the flimsy/wobbly hood catch release mechanism. Too much play in the separate pieces where they are held together by the peened over hinge pin. I marked the location of the mechanism and removed from the hood to see if I could reduce the play in the hinge pin. I tried a couple of attempts with a drift but that wasn't happening and didn't have a vise at my disposal so moved on to my heavy duty motorcycle chain breaking tool.
The hinge pin happened to fit in the chain tool well enough and so started cranking down and backing off to check my work. Looked like it was working as anticipated so kept going and then did a second spot for good measure. End result, a much tighter assembly with very little play!
Installed back on the van, aligned properly and then tested. Pulled on the hood release inside footwell and the hood popped open on the first attempt, like it was meant to. The misalignment of the catch when closed was keeping the hood from releasing almost every time. Next test, reaching under the hood and pulling up on the release to lift hood also works like it supposed to - moving straight up and releasing from the catch without any drama at all. Almost too well for the years I've been just been living with this issue. :Wow1:
It's a one hander now and no more embarrassing love taps on the hood. Twenty minutes of work to end years of frustration, all those little annoyances can add up! :yikes:
Works so smooth, I had to provide proof! Video link:
I noticed a few HVAC vacuum lines had seen better days and vent position changes were slowing down so replaced the deteriorated HVAC rubber vacuum lines that attach the vacuum tank (ball) to the heater & AC control valve with some urethane hose I had on hand. Sure seems like urethane is the going trend in this post for some reason!
Disconnected the old rubber line coming from vacuum tank to test fit the urethane hose, can see just how deteriorated the rubber line is.
The other rubber and vacuum lines seemed to be in good condition. I previously replaced the common broken vacuum line with the two 90°elbows that runs across the top of the engine.
New hose installed on the vacuum tank.
I noticed while installing above that I have weeping transmission cooler lines so I'll be repairing those instead of replacing, adding an inline filter once I determine the correct size and sorting out some quality high pressure transmission cooler hose and suitable clamps.