Barn Door for JK factory hardtops
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
jscherb
Expedition Leader
jscherb
Expedition Leader
As I posted the other day, I'm planning to mold another test grille with buckets to recess the turn signals flush with the face of the grille. I've decided to use 2.5" LED turn signals instead of the 3.5" factory incandescent ones and before I mold the next grille with the 2.5" buckets, I needed to test the LEDs to make sure they work as intended. Here's a quick test with clip leads; the LED is taped to the grille.
Off topic, but when the hazard flashers are on you can see how much faster an LED responds than an incandescent bulb.
That test was with LEDs I had on hand, but I probably won't use those, I've got a few other candidates I'm considering that will look a little more like the factory lights. This image shows two I'm considering, each one lit and unlit:
I'll probably order a pair of both of the above and see which one I like best.
There are two types of these LEDs on the market - the type called "dual function" have three terminals - ground, low intensity (marker) and high intensity (turn signal). The other type are single function, and only have two terminals - they don't have a provision for both low and high intensity.
The JK requires dual functions for the lights - the factory bulb is a dual filament bulb. The dual function LEDs only require a resistor on the turn signal side of the circuit to avoid "hyper flash" but other than that can be connected directly to the factory wiring.
Single function LEDs can also be used with the JK, all that's required is a second small resistor to dim the LED for the marker light function and a diode to stop feedback through the turn signal circuit that would prevent the marker function from working. One of the LED's pictured above is a single function, if it turns out I like that one better I'll wire it as necessary to work properly with the JK's light circuits.
Once I decide whether I'll be using single or dual function LEDs I'll make up a "plug and play" wiring harnesses for the LEDs that connect to the factory wiring and includes the necessary components.
Now that I've verified the operation of the LEDs I'll make up the inserts I'll put in the mold to form the buckets to recess the lights flush with the surface of the grille.
Off topic, but when the hazard flashers are on you can see how much faster an LED responds than an incandescent bulb.
That test was with LEDs I had on hand, but I probably won't use those, I've got a few other candidates I'm considering that will look a little more like the factory lights. This image shows two I'm considering, each one lit and unlit:
I'll probably order a pair of both of the above and see which one I like best.
There are two types of these LEDs on the market - the type called "dual function" have three terminals - ground, low intensity (marker) and high intensity (turn signal). The other type are single function, and only have two terminals - they don't have a provision for both low and high intensity.
The JK requires dual functions for the lights - the factory bulb is a dual filament bulb. The dual function LEDs only require a resistor on the turn signal side of the circuit to avoid "hyper flash" but other than that can be connected directly to the factory wiring.
Single function LEDs can also be used with the JK, all that's required is a second small resistor to dim the LED for the marker light function and a diode to stop feedback through the turn signal circuit that would prevent the marker function from working. One of the LED's pictured above is a single function, if it turns out I like that one better I'll wire it as necessary to work properly with the JK's light circuits.
Once I decide whether I'll be using single or dual function LEDs I'll make up a "plug and play" wiring harnesses for the LEDs that connect to the factory wiring and includes the necessary components.
Now that I've verified the operation of the LEDs I'll make up the inserts I'll put in the mold to form the buckets to recess the lights flush with the surface of the grille.
Bullseye240
Adventurer
Jeff, they make a electronically regulated flasher just for LED lights. My new taillights came with one and it will flash at the same rate without regard to the load. I also read somewhere that you can modify a factory flasher to do the same but it seems to me if you were already pulling the stock one out it would be just easier to instal a new one.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Yes, those flashers are a good option for older vehicles that have flashers... as far as I know the flashing on the JK is controlled by the TIPM, there isn't a separate flasher module.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
A couple of weeks ago I posted that I was making HD hood hinges to match the HD tailgate hinges and HD door hinges. Since I've got some extra HD door hinges from MORryde here - the hood hinges are based on those, all I had to do was make the body side of the hinges.
I finished making the hinges today... haven't painted them yet, I'll do that next and then I'll install and test them. Here's a photo of the pair alongside a factory hinge. One of the hinges is shown disassembled - these use factory door hinge nuts and by removing the nuts the hood can be slid off the hinge pins and removed just like the doors, providing great access to the engine compartment if engine work is to be done.
I thought some people might like to see how I duplicate factory parts like this accurately in my home workshop.
First I make an image of the part on the scanner, import it into a drawing program and trace it for the general shape. I verify that the scan is acccurately scaled, dimension the drawing and put center marks on all the holes.
Then I print the drawing, cut it out and use rubber cement to glue it to the metal stock. I center punch the holes using the center marks from the drawing, drill the holes and cut the part out of the metal stock, following the lines of the drawing.
Using a factory hinge, I made a fixture to hold the parts accurately. (I didn't show making the hinge pin barrel here; it's based on a commercial steel sleeve bearing, cut to length and drilled to the proper inside dimension.)
The parts are then welded together in the fixture. Removed from the fixture, I clean up the welds and paint.
If these hinges get picked up for production, I'll send the drawing and photos of my prototypes along to the company and they'll do the final production engineering. Probably they'll import my drawing into their CAD system and use that to drive their flatbed lasers to cut the production parts. They'll also most likely make a fixture similar to mine to weld the parts together, although since they'll be making many parts their fixture won't be made from wood.
BTW while I used MORryde HD door hinges to make these hood hinges, I did make the original HD door hinge prototype in my home workshop. At left below is an unpainted homemade prototype compared to a factory hood hinge, at right is a painted homemade prototype.
I finished making the hinges today... haven't painted them yet, I'll do that next and then I'll install and test them. Here's a photo of the pair alongside a factory hinge. One of the hinges is shown disassembled - these use factory door hinge nuts and by removing the nuts the hood can be slid off the hinge pins and removed just like the doors, providing great access to the engine compartment if engine work is to be done.
I thought some people might like to see how I duplicate factory parts like this accurately in my home workshop.
First I make an image of the part on the scanner, import it into a drawing program and trace it for the general shape. I verify that the scan is acccurately scaled, dimension the drawing and put center marks on all the holes.
Then I print the drawing, cut it out and use rubber cement to glue it to the metal stock. I center punch the holes using the center marks from the drawing, drill the holes and cut the part out of the metal stock, following the lines of the drawing.
Using a factory hinge, I made a fixture to hold the parts accurately. (I didn't show making the hinge pin barrel here; it's based on a commercial steel sleeve bearing, cut to length and drilled to the proper inside dimension.)
The parts are then welded together in the fixture. Removed from the fixture, I clean up the welds and paint.
If these hinges get picked up for production, I'll send the drawing and photos of my prototypes along to the company and they'll do the final production engineering. Probably they'll import my drawing into their CAD system and use that to drive their flatbed lasers to cut the production parts. They'll also most likely make a fixture similar to mine to weld the parts together, although since they'll be making many parts their fixture won't be made from wood.
BTW while I used MORryde HD door hinges to make these hood hinges, I did make the original HD door hinge prototype in my home workshop. At left below is an unpainted homemade prototype compared to a factory hood hinge, at right is a painted homemade prototype.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Thank you. I'm very happy to explain how I do something - I get so much good advice and feedback from the forum that doing how-to posts is the least I can do to say thanks. And hopefully I'll inspire people to try building more things themselves, it doesn't take a lot of expensive tools to do most of what I do. The only expensive tool necessary for this project is a welder, and an inexpensive one from someplace like Harbor Freight would do fine. For this project the cutting can be done with a cutting disk in an angle grinder, or a hacksaw, and the drilling can be done with an electric or battery hand drill. (Full disclosure, I used a metal-cutting bandsaw to cut the steel plate to shape, but my results would look exactly the same if I used a hacksaw or an angle grinder.)
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Now that the basics of the Trail Kitchen are done, I'm thinking about other enhancements - like a companion cabinet system. I'm thinking maybe two components - an enclosure for the current kitchen and a companion side cabinet. The tops of the enclosure and cabinet will form a cargo shelf; I may put some cargo retaining system/rails on top. The side cabinet lower drawer may include an additional tabletop like the drawer on the current kitchen.
Not having a ton of experience with this type of cabinetry in an overland Jeep, I'm looking for input and suggestions... what would you want to see in an enclosure for the basic kitchen and a companion cabinet? I'm in the design phase now and plan to do the construction in a few weeks so I can incorporate suggestions in the design now.
A few concept drawings:
Several outcomes of this prototype project are possible - the plans could be published so people using the Trail Kitchen could DIY-build the enclosure and companion cabinet themselves, or the cabinets could end up being options for the product. Or a third option - I build prototypes and nobody's interested so the project goes nowhere except the prototype in my Jeep
.
Not having a ton of experience with this type of cabinetry in an overland Jeep, I'm looking for input and suggestions... what would you want to see in an enclosure for the basic kitchen and a companion cabinet? I'm in the design phase now and plan to do the construction in a few weeks so I can incorporate suggestions in the design now.
A few concept drawings:
Several outcomes of this prototype project are possible - the plans could be published so people using the Trail Kitchen could DIY-build the enclosure and companion cabinet themselves, or the cabinets could end up being options for the product. Or a third option - I build prototypes and nobody's interested so the project goes nowhere except the prototype in my Jeep
.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
This week I plan to mold a second JL-style grille to see what it looks like with recessed turn signals. I plan to use 2 1/2" LEDs; I think they're better proportioned for the grille than the factory 3 1/2" turn signals.
I made up inserts for the mold to form the buckets for the turn signals. They're made from plastic and will take wax and mold release well. Once the mold is cleaned up from its last use they will be held in place in the mold with double-sided tape; modeling clay will be used to form a fillet between the insert and the face of the mold. This is a common way to add features to a fiberglass mold.
In this photo the bucket forms are just sitting in place; I haven't decided on the exact position yet.
I'll either put the lights in the Safari Concept position:
or a little more inboard:
Haven't made a final decision on the placement yet. I've got some travel this week so I won't get a chance to mold the new grille until next week so I've got a little time to decide.
Similar but larger mold inserts could be made to recess the factory turn signals, but I prefer the smaller ones.[/QUOTE]
I also made up plug-and-play wiring adapters so the LEDs will connect directly into the JKs turn signal plugs with no splicing or cutting of the JK wiring. The adapters include load resistors to elminate the fast flash problem that happens when LEDs are used. The harnesses are long enough so the resistors can be mounted to the radiator core support behind the grille.
I made up inserts for the mold to form the buckets for the turn signals. They're made from plastic and will take wax and mold release well. Once the mold is cleaned up from its last use they will be held in place in the mold with double-sided tape; modeling clay will be used to form a fillet between the insert and the face of the mold. This is a common way to add features to a fiberglass mold.
In this photo the bucket forms are just sitting in place; I haven't decided on the exact position yet.
I'll either put the lights in the Safari Concept position:
or a little more inboard:
Haven't made a final decision on the placement yet. I've got some travel this week so I won't get a chance to mold the new grille until next week so I've got a little time to decide.
Similar but larger mold inserts could be made to recess the factory turn signals, but I prefer the smaller ones.[/QUOTE]
I also made up plug-and-play wiring adapters so the LEDs will connect directly into the JKs turn signal plugs with no splicing or cutting of the JK wiring. The adapters include load resistors to elminate the fast flash problem that happens when LEDs are used. The harnesses are long enough so the resistors can be mounted to the radiator core support behind the grille.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Here's a quick project I did the other day that's not 100% Jeep related, but read along and you'll see the Jeep connection...
I carry my tools in a tool bag because I find the bag easier to store in the Jeep, especially when I'm loaded for an expedition. I've always been frustrated with solutions for keeping my sockets organized in the bag. I've tried a bunch of socket organizing solutions on the market, including these expensive socket holders from Home Depot:
They just don't hold up in the bag, you can see the broken studs. It's amazing that they saved pennies on each one by making the studs hollow and so thin that they break. Very bad engineering.
I had a new idea the other day so I bought a bunch of Harbor Freight socket rails for 99 cents each, and then I sewed a bag with pockets for them out of some old Jeep soft top fabric I had left over from one of my roll-up soft side projects for my Safari Cab hardtop. The bag has 4 pockets in it for socket rails:
It rolls up nicely to fit in the tool bag.
The soft top fabric is very stain resistant and will clean up nicely if it gets dirty from use. And it's plenty strong enough to keep the sockets in place on the 99 cent rails.
Not a Jeep project per se, but it is made from factory Jeep materials and will serve well in my Jeep on expeditions.
I carry my tools in a tool bag because I find the bag easier to store in the Jeep, especially when I'm loaded for an expedition. I've always been frustrated with solutions for keeping my sockets organized in the bag. I've tried a bunch of socket organizing solutions on the market, including these expensive socket holders from Home Depot:
They just don't hold up in the bag, you can see the broken studs. It's amazing that they saved pennies on each one by making the studs hollow and so thin that they break. Very bad engineering.
I had a new idea the other day so I bought a bunch of Harbor Freight socket rails for 99 cents each, and then I sewed a bag with pockets for them out of some old Jeep soft top fabric I had left over from one of my roll-up soft side projects for my Safari Cab hardtop. The bag has 4 pockets in it for socket rails:
It rolls up nicely to fit in the tool bag.
The soft top fabric is very stain resistant and will clean up nicely if it gets dirty from use. And it's plenty strong enough to keep the sockets in place on the 99 cent rails.
Not a Jeep project per se, but it is made from factory Jeep materials and will serve well in my Jeep on expeditions
.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Thank you very much. Glad you enjoy the threads.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Yesterday I posted about the LED lighting for the JL-style grille, so while I'm on the subject of LEDs... I got an email overnight on the subject (I've redacted bits of it for this post):
I replied and told them if they wanted to send me a pair of their LED turn signal bulbs (pictured below) I would review them in the process of various testing turn signals in this grille.
I'll post updates and a review in this thread if they send me a pair.
BTW these appear to need a load resistor to avoid fast flash, so in order to test them I'd make up some plug-and-play wiring adapters for these too (the ones I made up yesterday have plugs that are specific to the 2.5" LEDs, these would need to have different plugs).
I replied and told them if they wanted to send me a pair of their LED turn signal bulbs (pictured below) I would review them in the process of various testing turn signals in this grille.
I'll post updates and a review in this thread if they send me a pair.
BTW these appear to need a load resistor to avoid fast flash, so in order to test them I'd make up some plug-and-play wiring adapters for these too (the ones I made up yesterday have plugs that are specific to the 2.5" LEDs, these would need to have different plugs).