Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction

[redthies]

A big day today.



I was finally able to roll this thing outside into the sunlight for the first time! This is one of my favorite times in a build. It is really awesome to be able to get more than a few feet away from it for the 1st time.

I pulled me up a chair and just stared at it for a bit.

I smell another UA invite...

 

[Metcalf]

Just a few things. I am trying to get my ducks in a row to blow it apart.



I made a mount for the air cleaner that grabs factory frame mounting bolts. That way I can remove the fender and still leave everything in place. That was one of the goals with this project was to have basically nothing mounted to the fenders if possible.



I started taking a more in depth look at the dash layout. I'm not too thrilled with anything yet. The defrost ducts get in the way a lot behind the upper part of the dash. I'm still scratching my head on where to put what....



I think I am going to build a panel that goes over this old heater(?) port in the firewall to mount and pass all the wiring 'stuff' in/out of the cabin space. This should make it pretty easy to pull the entire harness if I do it right.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I thought Jim was still part of it, post acquisition? I haven't talked to him in years, so I haven't been keeping up.

He is, but Low Range basically killed the brand. Jim still makes adapters fro them, but since they sold themselves to Trail-Gear, the fate of Inchworm is up in the air. Jim keeps busy with his machine shop doing all sorts of other work.

He and I grew up together. When I moved to CA in 1984, my 6th grade science teacher partnered me with him and we've been friends ever since. I can credit him for helping me get to where I am today.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I think I am going to build a panel that goes over this old heater(?) port in the firewall to mount and pass all the wiring 'stuff' in/out of the cabin space. This should make it pretty easy to pull the entire harness if I do it right.

I used that hole to mount a trans cooler on the last FJ40 I built. Wasn't the best place for it, but that's where the customer wanted it... I like your idea of making a wiring bulkhead there.

 

[Metcalf]

Tonight...



I think I am getting close on the dash layout for the #LX45. I had to adjust my plan a little for the electric locker and defrost duct issues. I like how the new gauge cluster looks. I also found an interesting marine stereo that looks like it will work well. I had to ditch the idea of running a tablet, but overall I think this will work pretty well. I can now fit 2x3 carling switch pods. One will be for the front, center, and rear lockers. One will be for the OBA/arm, suckdown winch, and arm usb power port. Along the bottom lip I took a cue from icon and am going to run light, wiper, vent, fan, temp switches. The key will be on to the left of the gauge cluster. Anyone have any better ideas?

A few other details...



Planning out the floor mount dimmer switch mounting location so I can add a few weld nuts under the floor.



Another view of the dash layout. I am going to relocate the vent pull knob to the middle switch location. That should be easy using the spring lever that is already on the linkage under the dash.



I am trying to map out areas for storage on the vehicle. I want to add some weld nuts ( or rivet nuts ) under the floor for tie downs. On a vehicle this size, even though it is much larger than my flat fender, I want to keep as much of the weight as forward and low as possible. It looks like I have a decent amount of space outboard of the seat brackets to the door sill. I should be able to mount some tool rolls or tool bags in those locations. Each could fit a 14x6x5 bag/roll. The passenger seat has an area about 7.5x18x5 under it. The under the drivers seat is 11x18x5. Behind the seat ended up like a pretty decent spot also. A lot of this space will be used for the storage of the rear window panels, but I think I can sneak in some storage for longer items too like a spare driveshaft and perhaps a few spare axle shafts? I can make some nice hard mount for those things. I might have to trap them under the center console, but I hope to not need them that often. Pulling the console should only be a few fasteners.

That is about all for now. I am going to try and work on finishing up some details this weekend before tear down....and start ordering more of the interior electronic parts. Lots to do...

 

[locrwln]

Great updates.

One thing to be aware of regarding 80 series factory locked axles, is the actuator slides a collar to engage and that collar rides on long splines. Guys with 80's were breaking or twisting them with 35's and 37's. Once it twists, you can't get the axle shaft out and can't get the third member out. They had to end up cutting a hole in the axle housing to cut the axle, so they could get everything apart to repair it. I know you are much lighter than an 80, but you are running 40's.

Jack

 

[Metcalf]

Great updates.

One thing to be aware of regarding 80 series factory locked axles, is the actuator slides a collar to engage and that collar rides on long splines. Guys with 80's were breaking or twisting them with 35's and 37's. Once it twists, you can't get the axle shaft out and can't get the third member out. They had to end up cutting a hole in the axle housing to cut the axle, so they could get everything apart to repair it. I know you are much lighter than an 80, but you are running 40's.

Jack

Yup, not the 1st time I have heard about that. Alloy shafts are going in the rear axle pretty much straight away.

......much much much much lighter Sprung rear weight on mine is only at about 1000lbs. I've seen some rear bumpers on 80's that probably weigh more than that!

If it becomes a terminal issue I could always do the 32 spline upgrade with the newer 3rd member and larger pinion.

I know I am pushing the limits of what most people would say would work for 80 axles. I watched one of the Readers on Ultimate Adventure 2015 beat his 80 series rear axle with big tires, gearing, redline clutch drops for a weak. I think there is a little more in these axles than some would believe.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Great updates.

One thing to be aware of regarding 80 series factory locked axles, is the actuator slides a collar to engage and that collar rides on long splines. Guys with 80's were breaking or twisting them with 35's and 37's. Once it twists, you can't get the axle shaft out and can't get the third member out. They had to end up cutting a hole in the axle housing to cut the axle, so they could get everything apart to repair it. I know you are much lighter than an 80, but you are running 40's.

Jack

The front and rear diffs have completely different designs for the locking mechanism. The front locker uses a much finer splined engagement collar than the rear. The rear has more dog teeth than splines.

I've never been witness to problems with the front 8" locker, and my experience with the 9.5" locker is limited. Which one has the problems, Jack? Is it the rear or front?

 

[Metcalf]

The front and rear diffs have completely different designs for the locking mechanism. The front locker uses a much finer splined engagement collar than the rear. The rear has more dog teeth than splines.

I've never been witness to problems with the front 8" locker, and my experience with the 9.5" locker is limited. Which one has the problems, Jack? Is it the rear or front?

My understanding is that this is a rear 9.5 locker issue. Basically the locking fork can get 'stuck' if the splines on the axle twist or the axle breaks.
Alloy shafts are suppose to fix most of this issue.

 

[locrwln]

Yup, not the 1st time I have heard about that. Alloy shafts are going in the rear axle pretty much straight away.

......much much much much lighter Sprung rear weight on mine is only at about 1000lbs. I've seen some rear bumpers on 80's that probably weigh more than that!

If it becomes a terminal issue I could always do the 32 spline upgrade with the newer 3rd member and larger pinion.

I know I am pushing the limits of what most people would say would work for 80 axles. I watched one of the Readers on Ultimate Adventure 2015 beat his 80 series rear axle with big tires, gearing, redline clutch drops for a weak. I think there is a little more in these axles than some would believe.

No doubt on yours being a different situation, but I wanted to make sure you were aware and knew to be conscious of it. I'm running the same 40's on my 4.3/R150 '85 4Runner with tons, but I know that the dual mini cases are my weak points. I upgraded them with all of the alloy shafts I could, but it's always in the back of my mind.

The front and rear diffs have completely different designs for the locking mechanism. The front locker uses a much finer splined engagement collar than the rear. The rear has more dog teeth than splines.

I've never been witness to problems with the front 8" locker, and my experience with the 9.5" locker is limited. Which one has the problems, Jack? Is it the rear or front?

Sorry, I got interrupted earlier and forgot to add it's with the rear axle. The front seems to be pretty bullet proof on the locker, you just have to be careful in reverse as you can strip the front gears.

My understanding is that this is a rear 9.5 locker issue. Basically the locking fork can get 'stuck' if the splines on the axle twist or the axle breaks.
Alloy shafts are suppose to fix most of this issue.

Agreed. I've had two 80 series factory locked trucks and even loaded with all of the crap most people added, I never had a problem, but most of my uses were exploring and not rockcrawling. Did some Moab time with my second 80 and never had a problem, but again, it was something I kept in mind. I hate trail breakage.

Jack

 

[Metcalf]

Well that escalated quickly. I started off finishing the steering shaft for the #LX45 and ended up with the front clip torn down trying to find a home for a suck down winch. I wasn't able to use all of the old I-6 motor mount pad, but I did retain some of it. Next I need to make a little winch mount plate.....

 

[Metcalf]

Hidden front suckdown winch mount on the #LX45 is done. It was tight, but not as bad as the pictures make it look. It has about 3/8-1/2 inch of clearance to critical bits. The weight is pretty low and forward. It will be interesting to see how much I end up using it, but adding it later would have been an even bigger pain. And nope, can't really use the main winch for this function, there is just too much stuff in the way.

 

[Metcalf]

I like those evenings when I get more done than I thought I would on the #LX45. I planned on basically pulling the steering box off so I could send it out for a tap job to have hydro assist. I ended up doing that AND pulling apart the front end completely and getting all the final welding done. Time for some primer and paint!

 

[Loubaru]

Whats the suckdown winch for?

 

[Metcalf]

Much tig welding on the #lx45 grill tonight. Probably only 6-7 feet of welding. Didn't quite get done. More tomorrow.