Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
Updates here:
Bojak
Adventurer
Nope. I work welders, pipe fitters, and commercial electricians. U better be proctologist level to deal with those @$$#oles and their egos.
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Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Sweet! Unicorns do exist. I got my harness back from 208 Motorsports today. It only took me a bit to get it laid out to install back on the engine and transmission. Now I can install the transfer case and stick the tub back on the chassis this weekend. It feels so good to be able to make some progress again on the #LX45.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
A big bite today.....finally!
This little thing is worth its weight in gold. I built this little cradle foot to bolt on my engine hoist. It allows me to lift at the A to C spreader which allows the chassis to swivel and be lifted level to be placed on the chassis.
The cradle is just some angle iron, but long enough that I didn't have to have the exact COG to left things level. The pipe clamps held the chassis down enough to level things out.
Getting the body tub up high enough off the floor to stick the hoist through the door was the hardest part. A possible improvement would be to put an elbow in the hoist arm to give it a little more flexibility.
I couldn't be happier with how this worked. While it still took a little bit of time, it took almost no effort. No cussing or swearing at all either. It was easy to nutdge the tub around and drop it into the body mounts I built into rocker guard outriggers.
I cannot express how good it feels to have the tub back on the chassis! I could strip everything else off, and it would still feel more like a complete vehicle. The tub should be able to stay on for good now.
I still have lots to do, but getting the tub back on really makes it feel possible!
This little thing is worth its weight in gold. I built this little cradle foot to bolt on my engine hoist. It allows me to lift at the A to C spreader which allows the chassis to swivel and be lifted level to be placed on the chassis.
The cradle is just some angle iron, but long enough that I didn't have to have the exact COG to left things level. The pipe clamps held the chassis down enough to level things out.
Getting the body tub up high enough off the floor to stick the hoist through the door was the hardest part. A possible improvement would be to put an elbow in the hoist arm to give it a little more flexibility.
I couldn't be happier with how this worked. While it still took a little bit of time, it took almost no effort. No cussing or swearing at all either. It was easy to nutdge the tub around and drop it into the body mounts I built into rocker guard outriggers.
I cannot express how good it feels to have the tub back on the chassis! I could strip everything else off, and it would still feel more like a complete vehicle. The tub should be able to stay on for good now.
I still have lots to do, but getting the tub back on really makes it feel possible!
changingground
Member
I'm trying to encourage my kids to think outside of their respective boxes. Yours is a great example. Keep on plugging.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
My bite for tonight....
I patched a half dozen holes in the lower center part of the dash. These where new holes from when the tub was flipped. I had removed a bunch of old brackets that where spot welded to the rear of the dash. That made holes. Those holes needed filled.
I used my 'standard' method for this...
The holes where drilled out to the next factional size with a step drill. I cut thin wafers of round bar stock that matches the hole diameter. I hold them in place with a magnet while I tack them with the TIG. Once the magnet is removed I weld them all the way around using small amounts of small diameter filler. I sand the majority of the weld down with a 36 grit 2" rol-loc. A little body hammer work helps get things flat. I finish it off with an 80 grit 2" rol-loc.
Generally, I just try and get better at making everything disappear...
I patched a half dozen holes in the lower center part of the dash. These where new holes from when the tub was flipped. I had removed a bunch of old brackets that where spot welded to the rear of the dash. That made holes. Those holes needed filled.
I used my 'standard' method for this...
The holes where drilled out to the next factional size with a step drill. I cut thin wafers of round bar stock that matches the hole diameter. I hold them in place with a magnet while I tack them with the TIG. Once the magnet is removed I weld them all the way around using small amounts of small diameter filler. I sand the majority of the weld down with a 36 grit 2" rol-loc. A little body hammer work helps get things flat. I finish it off with an 80 grit 2" rol-loc.
Generally, I just try and get better at making everything disappear...